MAY 06,2018 - MAY 06,2018 (1 DAYS)
Seville - Day 4 - : Barrio Santa Cruz, Casa de Pilato, Alfalfa, Plaza de la Encarnación and La Seta, Plaza Nueva.
Main Attractions: Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes, Plaza de Doña Elvira, Plaza Santa Maria la Blanca, Casa de Pilatos, Pl. de la Alfalfa, Plaza Pescaderia, Plaza del Salvador, Casa de la Memoria, Plaza de la Encarnación + Parasol, Plaza Jesús de la Pasión (Plaza del Pan), Plaza Nueva, Puerta de Jerez.
Start & End: Prado de San Sebastian. Distance: 13-14 km. Weather: Nice day only. We are staying in outdoor/urban spaces. Orientation: Busy day. Expect special experiences - different than the former 3 days. More off-the-beaten-path sites - but, still, wonderful attractions. The route includes several hidden gems of Seville. Very rewarding day ! Duration: full day.
4th day Itinerary: we start our 4th day in repeating a section from our 3rd day in Seville. We start at Pl. Don Juan de Austria - where Avenida Carlos V intersects Av. de Menéndez Pelayo. We enter Jardines Muriilos and cross the gardens from south to north. On our left - the Sant Cruz quarter walls:
In the middle section of the gardens - turn left onto Calle Antonio el Balarin, take the stairs, 110 m. Turn left onto Callejon de Agua, 80 m:
Turn right onto Calle Justino de Neve, 65 m. In the end of this road - stands the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (Hospital of Venerable Priests) - a Baroque 17th-century building which served as a residence for priests. It currently houses the Velázquez Center, dedicated to the famous painter Diego Velázquez. It is located in the Plaza de los Venerables, in the center of the Barrio de Santa Cruz and close to the Murillo Gardens, the Seville Cathedral and the Alcázar. The hospital was founded by Justino de Neve in 1675, to be the residence of the venerable priests. Construction began that year, under the direction of the architect Juan Domínguez. In 1687, the project was taken over by the architect Leonardo de Figueroa who completed the building in 1697. The church was built in 1689, and is dedicated to San Fernando. The hospital was funded by the brotherhood, charity and the monarchy until 1805 when the it could no longer be adequately supported. In 1840, the hospital became a textile factory and the former residents were moved to the Charity Hospital. Complaints from the brotherhood led to a Royal Order in 1848, which returned their property and allowed the priests to return to their old home. The Plaza de the Venerables has been named after the priests since 1868:
The artistic highlights are the wonderful church and its ornate decoration and the Focus-Abengoa Foundation’s collection of 17th-century paintings in the Centro Velázquez. It’s not a big collection but each work is a masterpiece of its genre – highlights include Diego Velázquez’ Santa Rufina, his Inmaculada Concepción, and a sharply vivid portrait of Santa Catalina by Bartolomé Murillo. It is a gem. Unforgettable suprise in Santa Cruz quarter. An island of calmness, nobility and beauty. Do not miss ! Note the restricted opening hours (during half-a-week !): THU-SUN: 10.00 - 14.00. Prices: 10 euros (during summer 2018: 8 euros). FREE - 1st Thursday of every month. Online booking: https://fundacfocusabengoa.expertustech.com/#/landing
Church Hall Ceiling:
Photos from the hospital TV presentation:
From Hospital los Venerables, Plaza Venerables - head southwest on Calle Gloria toward Calle Pimienta, 30 m. Continue onto Plaza de Doña Elvira, 20 m. Doña Elvira square is one of the most beautiful squares in Seville and Barrio Santa Cruz. This square arose in the neighborhood’s redevelopment between 1918 and 1922, led by the municipal architect Juan Talavera y Heredia. Popular Sevillian legend state that this was the site of the house of Don Gonzalo de Ulloa, father of Doña Elvira, for whom the Plaza is named, from “Don Juan Tenorio” de Zorrilla. This square is included in most classical tours of the city, which is why is mostly filled during the day with numerous groups of visitors, both from Spain and abroad. Adding to its charm is its exclusively pedestrian character, its layered accesses, and, as if by surprise, its carefully curated central flowerbeds, benches, fountain and orange trees. In addition, the square is surrounded by buildings with a marked Sevillian flavor, with restaurants, terraces and souvenir and crafts shops:
We leave this square with our face to the north along Calle Rodrigo Caro. In the beginning of thos road (the south end) resides La Cueva restaurant:
The windows of houses along Rodrigo Caro are-irin-railed and painted in Turquoise. Calle Rodrigo Caro ends with Pl. de la Alianza. Pl. de la Alianza turns left and becomes Calle Rodrigo Caro, 40 m. Turn right onto Pje. Andreu. Head east on Pje. Andreu toward Pje. de Vila, 50 m. Continue onto Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 120 m.
Note Calle Ximénez de Enciso #30:
Calle Ximénez de Enciso ends, in the north, in Plaza Santa Maria la Blanca.
The Church of Santa María de las Nieves in Seville, better known as Santa María la Blanca, is located in the historic area known as the “Judería”, where Calle San José meets Calle Santa María la Blanca. It is very famous for its ceilings. It was a synagogue built in the thirteenth century. The history is marvelous: the building used to be a synagogue before the Inquisition and many details remain. There is an original Murillo to be seen, quite a wonderful church and well worth stepping in from the street to its hushed interior. In 1391, after the massacre and forced conversion of the Jews, it was transformed into a Christian church, being rebuilt in the middle of the 17th century with funding from Justino de Neve y Yébenes. It is the seat of the Brotherhood of the Rosario de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves. In addition to this remarkable historical evolution and the interesting artistic heritage it conserves, the temple stands out as one of the most dazzling examples of Andalusian architecture from the first Baroque period. It earns its dynamism and typically Baroque chromatic richness thanks to the plaster work and the paintings that decorate the interior of the church. Its floor plan is simple. The church has a rectangular floor plan, with the chancel and two naves, also rectangular, attached to the wall of the Epistle. Inside, it has three naves divided into six sections by 10 Tuscan columns of red marble. Above them, there are arches that support barrel vaults with false lunettes in the central nave and arched vaults in the lateral naves. In the last two sections of the central nave, before the presbytery, a dome is erected on pendentives, illuminated by two lateral oculi. The presbytery is covered by a barrel vault with lunettes. Entrance is FREE. Open: MON-SAT:
Impressive art work inside, glorious altar and unforgettable ceiling. The interior is very grand and the ceiling is stunning:
We leave the church - continuing north-west along calle san Jose. We pass, on our right (north-east) Calle Levies. Memorizing the Levy Jewish Family. Samuel Levy was the treasurer of several Spanish kings. In the end of San Jose, in the square, we turn right onto Calle Conde de Ibarra. We turn LEFT to Calle Vidria and, then, RIGHT to Calle Águilas. We walk eastward along Calle Águila and in the 2nd turn to the right (south) we enter Plaza de Pilatos. Here, we find the Casa de Pilatos. Casa de Pilatos means "Pilate's House," the nickname given to this prototypical Andalusian place because its owner in the 1520s visited Jerusalem, returned, then created for Lent a step-for-step replica of the Way of the Cross, tracing 1,321 steps from a chapel in his palace to a spot outside the city walls. Far from the beaten path of tourists. A wonderful mansion. Worth visiting for the tiles alone. Amazing decorative features. Unbelievably decorated rooms. It is Moorish architecture, but, full with Roman sculptures. Beautiful courtyard gardens. A place for Azulejos tiles fans. Opening hours: daily, NOV-MAR: 9.00 to 18.00, APR-OCT: 9.00 to 19.00. Prices: Complete House ticket: 12€ (with a guided tour to the upper floor), Ground Floor ticket: 10€. Photos are NOT allowed in the 2nd floor. Both prices include an audio-guide per person, available in: English, Spanish, French, Italian, Portuguese, German and Japanese.
First we see the sculpture of Zurbaran:
Sweet Almonds in the entrance:
1st floor - you are free to wander with no guidance around:
Patios and Corridors around the main courtyard and gardens in the 1 st floor:
Back to the 1st floor. Paintings of Bartholomeo Murillio(1617-1682):
Mudejar ornamentation in the 1st floor:
1st floor - Barouque ornamentation:
Casa de Pilatos - the Gardens:
From Casa de Pilatos - head southeast on Calle Caballerizas toward Calle Águilas (very narrow road), 10 m. Turn right onto Calle Águilas, 220 m. Continue onto Calle Alfalfa, 80 m. and enter Pl. de la Alfalfa with your face to the west. Plaza Alfalfa is full with bars, restaurants and history: Sal Gorda, Alcaicería de la Loza, 23; Bar Alfalfa, Calle Candilejo, 1; La Bodega, Plaza Alfalfa, 4; Habanita (Cuban cuisine), Calle Golfo, 3; Casa Antonio, Calle Perez Galdos, 13; Beodo Craft Beer, Calle Pérez Galdos, 22. Nightlife activity in the heart of the city center starts with the area around Plaza Alfalfa, most notably on Calle Perez Galdos and several surrounding streets. A collection of smaller bars attracts a lively mix of Spaniards and visitors with the activity beginning close to midnight. Popular spots include el Cabo Loco, Sopa de Ganso and Berlin, which stays open until the early morning hours. Just down the street on Calle Siete Revueltas is El Mundo, with live flamenco on Thursday nights, and a mixed crowd. The square is equipped with drinkable water facility. With our face to the west - we take the left "leg" (south) of Calle Jesús de las Tres Caídas. Next, we turn to the right (west) onto Cuesta del Rosario. On our right (north) is Plaza Pescaderia. In the 18th century it was called Costanilla. In 1815 the fish market was established here and it was called Pescadería. in 2006 when they discovered archaeological remains of a cistern and decided to integrate it into the environment by putting a glazed structure that allowed to see from the street, as well as a staircase to access them. But that was in theory because, although the structure is, the glass does not allow to see the interior Today, it is said that they are trying to recover it:
We continue walking westward along Cuesta del Rosario, 130 m. Continue onto Calle Villegas, 50 m.Continue onto Pl. del Salvador, 30 m. Turn right to stay on Pl. del Salvador, 40 . Plaza del Salvador, A STUNNING SQUARE, is an open space located in the quarter of Alfalfa and the district of the Old Town of Seville, which takes its name from the Salvador church: from the 17th century, that is the second biggest church in the city after the cathedral. In the past it was named the square of the Cemetery or the square of the Cemetery of the Salvador because it partly hosted the cemetery of the parish. In its origins it may have been a recreational place to socialize, since the Andalusian period because of its proximity to the Aljama mosque and maybe because it hosted the souk (market) described by Ibn Abdún in the 11th century. In the Middle Ages it hosted a water storage that came from the aqueduct Caños de Carmona in the southern point of the street and a stone cross which is now located in Calle Villegas was set up in 1608. In the middle of the 19th century this place was remodeled and it was created a tree-lined linear garden in the center of the place through a project of Balbino Marrón. As it was not much appreciated, it was removed and Isidoro Heredia created a new project for this place. A monument to Martínez Montañés was erected in 1923, in 1970 the orange trees were replanted and finally, the last remodeling was carried out in 1983 to make it walkable. The most meaningful buildings in the square are the Salvador church, which is the headquarter of the religious brotherhood of El Amor and La Pasión, and the Hospital de Nuestra Señora de la Paz. Salvador square is always a busy square, but, by the end of the day, it is almost packed. This square has a pleasant ambiance created by the large open space surrounded by the classic Spanish architecture of the multi-storied buildings. Many people go to one of the bars to have a sherry after work. A long queue for entering the church. Prices: adult - 8 euros, concessions: 4 euros.
Salvador church is the second largest church of Seville after the Cathedral. Construction works begun in 1674 with architect Esteban García and finished in 1712 with Leonardo de Figueroa. It was based on the remains of the Mezquita Mayor, which was then the main mosque of Seville. From this Arabic building of the 9th century, still remain its Patio de Abluciones and the basement of its tower.
Inside the temple, the major altarpiece should be highlighted, because it is considered to be one of the most monumental and representative works of the Baroque style in Seville as well as the colossal altarpiece of the façade of the sacramental chapel, which is dedicated to the Transfiguración (Transfiguration), both are works by Cayetano de Acosta (1770- 1779).
It is dominated by a marvelous silver altar which houses the famous sculpture of the Passion of Christ, by Martínez de Montañés, approximately carried out in 1619. Its procession takes place in the evening of Saint Jueves. The Retablo mayor from 1770-1779 by Cayetano de Acosta:
From the northern side of Salvador Square we continue walking NORTHWARD along Calle Cuna. In the the 1st intersection with Calle Cerrajeria - we see this house:
We arrive to the Sevilla - Centro Cultural Flamenco "Casa de la Memoria", Calle Cuna, 6. Flamenco cultural center in 16th-century courtyard house, with museum & nightly live performances. Opening hours: SUN-SAT: 11.00 - 22.00:
We walk northward along Calle Cuna until its end. In the end, we turn right (east) onto Calle Laraña. As we turn right, we see, on our left, in Calle Laraña, a famous ice-cream shop La casa Abuela (medio - 3.50 euros). On our right - the Seville University - Facultad de las Bellas Artes. When Calle Laraña changes (further east) to Calle Imagen - on your left (north) you see enormous square: Plaza de la Encarnación with the architectural marvel of the Parasol. In the centre of the Plaza de la Encarnación stands a huge tree with band of players and musicians:
It used to be a car park but has been transformed by a new piece of architecture the Metropol Parasol.
Metropol Parasol is a wooden structure located at La Encarnación square that was designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer and completed in April 2011. It has dimensions of 150 by 70 metres and an approximate height of 26 metres and claims to be the largest wooden structure in the world. Its appearance, location, delays and cost overruns in construction resulted in much public controversy. The building is popularly known as Las Setas de la Encarnación (Incarnation's mushrooms). The structure consists of six parasols in the form of giant mushrooms ("Las setas" in Spanish), whose design is inspired by the vaults of the Cathedral of Seville and the ficus trees in the nearby Plaza de Cristo de Burgos. Metropol Parasol is organized in four levels. The underground level (Level 0) houses the Antiquarium, where Roman and Moorish remains discovered on site are displayed in a museum. In Level 1 (street level) there is a market "Mercado de la Encarnacion" (on the basement). You can buy fruits and vegetables there. The roof of Level 1 is the surface of the open-air public plaza, shaded by the wooden parasols above and designed for public events. Levels 2 and 3 are the two stages of the panoramic terraces (including a restaurant), offering one of the best views of the city centre. This space is called the Plaza mayor in Seville. What is called a square is, in fact the roof of the new Encarnacion market. Very different to other squares in Seville, this square houses the modern Metropol Parasol. AN ARCHITECTURAL WONDER ! Worth visiting to go to the top of the Metropol Parasol for great views of the city.You can climb the stairs to the upper levels or using an elevator from the ground floor (6 euros/2 persons). Note: There is a restaurant at the ground level which gives food or drink in exchange for your admission ticket, so the visit is essentially FREE. If you really want your refund - descend to street level, walk around the base of the mushrooms to the south west corner of the plaza, and you’ll find the bar that accepts the vouchers, facing the street. As we said, there are great views of the city from the top. only a small part of the view is particularly compelling. Mostly just staring at uniform rooftops. Probably best to go around sunset. Construction began on June 26, 2005, with an estimated cost of 50 million euros and a projected completion date in June 2007. However, unknown to the public, the project soon faced difficulties. By May 2007 engineering firm Arup informed the municipal authorities that the structure was technically unfeasible as designed, given that a number of structural assumptions had not been tested and the design appeared to violate the limitations of known materials. The wood used was birch, imported from Finland, because of its straight qualities. Much time was spent developing feasible alternative plans to buttress the structure, which themselves proved impractical because of the added weight. A feasible design using glue as reinforcement was finally settled on only at the beginning of 2009. By some estimates, due to delays, the total cost of the structure approached 100 million euros. AMAZING AREA:
Our Tip: Go just before sunset and you’ll get a fabulous view of the sun dipping behind the hills to the west of the city. It is probably best to go after dark, as the structure is beautifully lit and the night vistas of Seville are terrific:
From Las Setas De Sevilla, Pl. de la Encarnación - head SOUTH toward Calle Imagen, 60 m. Turn right onto Calle Imagen, 5 m. Turn left onto Pl. de la Encarnación, 55 m. Turn right to stay on Pl. de la Encarnación, 35 m. Turn left onto Calle Puente y Pellón, 140 m. Slight left onto Calle Lineros, 65 m. Continue onto Plaza Jesús de la Pasión, 40 m. Plaza Jesús de la Pasión (Plaza del Pan) was, in the past, a square-market for bread and other necessities. The Plaza Jesus de la Pasión, better known as Plaza del Pan, is located in a busy area, in the heart of the city, between the squares of Alfalfa and El Salvador. This square, present throughout the history of the city and linked to its commercial life, has always been a meeting point, in the nineties it was a space where people stayed to drink outdoors before leaving, and during the day it has always been counted with watchmen. In the first decade of the twenty-first century after an intervention on the public spaces of the environment known as "the sensitive skin" this square has tried to consolidate its character as a room or lounge, eliminating traffic and complementing its urban furniture. The latter continues to be a public controversy, especially when talking about lampposts, too "modern" for the most conservative sector of the city. In any case, it is a very pleasant place, especially the European bar tables, which has small handicraft businesses on the facade of the church and others as picturesque as Cira brides.
A unique enclave and place to be. The Ice-cream shop, here, Bolas - is very famous. A long queue of clients is always waiting for its turn:
The El Divino Salvador Church (we've already browsed it) is adjacent, west to the Plaza del Pan. Head south on Plaza Jesús de la Pasión toward Calle Villegas, 40 m. Turn right onto Calle Villegas, 50 m. Continue onto Pl. del Salvador, 35 m. Turn left onto Calle Álvarez Quintero, 100 m. Turn right onto Calle Chicarreros, 60 m. Turn left onto Pl. de S. Francisco, 60 m. Turn right to stay on Pl. de S. Francisco, 40 m. Turn left toward Pl. de S. Francisco, 35 m. Turn right onto Pl. de S. Francisco, 40 m. Turn right to stay on Pl. de S. Francisco, 15 m. Turn LEFT (west) onto the extensive Plaza Nueva, 65 m. Very probable that you meet musical bands playing year under the huge plane trees:
From Plaza Nueva - we continue south on Calle Barcelona toward Calle Joaquín Guichot, 55 m. Turn right onto Calle Joaquín Guichot, 15 m. Turn left onto Calle Jimios, 35 m. Slight right onto Calle Harinas, 120 m. Continue onto Puerta del Arenal, 20 m. The Puerta del Arenal was one of the 19 gates of the wall of Seville , Andalusia , Spain . It was demolished in 1864, it was located on the current García de Vinuesa street. Our last destination (as every day) is Puerta de Jerez. We can walk from Puerta del Arenal to Puerta de Jerez via the Cathedral, via Paseo Cristobal Colon and Totte del Oro or via another urban way - not discovered yet during our previous 3 days in Seville. We shall make this intermediate way of 600 m. Head southwest on Puerta del Arenal toward Calle García de Vinuesa, 15 m. Turn left onto Calle Arfe, 150 m. Turn left onto Calle Almirantazgo, 55 m. Turn left to stay on Calle Almirantazgo, 60 m. Turn right onto Av. de la Constitución (formeerly visited), 270 m. Continue onto Puerta de Jerez, 50 m.: