Seville - Day 3 - along the Guadalquivir river and Triana quarter

MAY 05,2018 - MAY 05,2018 (1 DAYS)

Citywalk

Seville - Day 3 - from Puerta de Jerez to :

MainAttractions: Torre del Oro, Teatro de la Maestranza, Hospital de la Caridad, Plaza De Toros De La Maestranza, Punte de Isabel II, Triana - Plaza del Altozano, Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la O, Calle Alfareria, Calle San Jacinto, Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana, Plaza de Cuba, Puente San Telmo, San Telmo Palace, Teatro Lope de Vega, Plaza de España.

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Start & End: Prado de San Sebastian and Purta de Jerez (circular route). Duration: 1 day. Distance: 10-11 km. Weather: Bright day. Avoid rainy/windy or very hot/humid days. All our walk, in this route - is an outdoors one.

Day 3 Itinerary:  From Prado de San Sebastian we head west on Av. Carlos V, 30 m. Turn left toward Av. Carlos V, 20 m. Turn right onto Av. Carlos V, 65 m. Slight left toward Calle San Fernando, 40 m. Turn right onto Calle San Fernando, 450 m. Turn left onto Puerta de Jerez, 20 m. Slight left, 100 m. Turn right at Av. Paseo de Cristina, 180 m. Our face is to the south-west and we are heading to the water of Canal de Alfonso XIII (Guadalquivir River). Turn right onto Paseo Alcalde Marqués del Contadero, walk 140 m. with your face to the north-west and the Torre del Oro is on your right. The Tower of Gold in Seville lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, on Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. It was built in the 13th century during the Almohad dynasty as a military watchtower in the city walls, and was meant to control traffic on the Guadalquivir River and to defend the port of Seville from potential attacks. The stone tower has gone through many uses, being one by one an observation tower, a prison, a chapel, a gunpowder store, and even a monument threatened with demolition and sale. Thanks to the locals of Seville, who opposed these measures, Torre del Oro has remained standing, being renovated several times. The tower is 36 metres high and stands on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River. It has three sections, the first two of which are dodecagonal: the first of these was built by the Almohads, while the second was built by Pedro I, "the Cruel". The third section is cylindrical and topped with a dome. This dates from the 18th century. The tower defended the river entrance to the Barcas bridge and land access to the Arenal, home of industrial activity. The tower was linked to the Torre de la Plata through sections of wall known as “coracha”, which also stretched to Seville's Alcazar.

Nowadays, the Torre del Oro now houses a small but interesting naval museum. The museum has two floors of exhibits and a panoramic terrace.  Climbing the spiraling stairs to the top of the tower is well worth the effort as the views over the Triana neighborhood across the river are truly spectacular. Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 9.30 to 18.45, Saturday and Sunday from 10.30 to 18.45. Closed: Bank Holidays. Prices: 3 €, children over 6 years, students and retired people: 1,50 €, Mondays: FREE Entrance:

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We continue walking north-west along Paseo de Cristóbal Colón to arrive to Teatro de la Maestranza, Paseo de Cristobal Colon, 22. All chances that you'll find this place closed along the day hours. Very exciting to be inside and experience the fine performing arts from all over the nation and international guest companies. A fantastic concert hall. The acoustic is great. On every seat a perfect view on the stage:

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Immediately behind the theatre (and opera) - we turn right (north) onto Calle Dos de Mayo. Again, we turn RIGHT onto Calle Temprado. On our right - Capilla de Rosario. A few steps further (south-east), on our left, Hospital de la Caridad (The Charity Hospital). The Charity Hospital is operated by the Charity Brotherhood (Hermandad de la Caridad). Nowadays, a large part of the premises are still used as a hospital, since the Brotherhood is involved in several charities and other projects to help people. The building of the hospital is one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture and art of the 17th century. Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays 11.00 to 13.00 and 15.30 to 19.00; Sundays 9.00 to 12.30 Prices: General: 5 €, Free admission to the Hospital de la Caridad is included with the Sevilla Card:

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Through the entrance you see the central courtyard, the church and a lateral patio. There are temporary exhibitions in the Sala Baja de Cabildos (lower meeting room) where you’ll also see belongings of Miguel Mañara, the most important principal of the Brotherhood. It is also a place of worship for the Brotherhood thus, the opening hours can vary as deemed appropriate. The only public mass in the Hospital church is on Sundays at 12:30: Citywalk in , , visiting things to do in , Travel Blog, Share my Trip

We return to Paseo de Cristóbal Colón (along the river) and continue walking with our face to the west. 520 m. from the Teatro de la Maestranza, - you arrive to the Plaza De Toros De La Maestranza (the entrance is from Calle Adriano - turning to the right from Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. When you arrive from Paseo de Cristóbal Colón - you the statue of Curio Romero:

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The Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla is a 12,000-capacity bullring. During the annual Seville Fair in Seville, it is the site of one of the most well-known bullfighting festivals in the world. It is a part of the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla, a noble guild established for traditional cavalry training. The ring itself is considered one of the city's most famous tourist attractions and is certainly one of the most visited. As a stage for bullfighting, it is considered one of the world's most challenging environments because of its history, characteristics, and viewing public, which is considered one of the most unforgiving in all of bullfighting fandom. The bullfighting regular season goes from March or April (depending on the Semana Santa dates) until late September. Every year the Real Maestranza commissions a painter to produce a poster announcing the bullfighting season in its Royal Bullring. Opening hours: everyday: 09.30-21.00. Prices: Adult: 8 €, student/Senior visitor: 4€. FREE on Mondays from 15.00 to 19.00 (you are assigned to an available time slot):

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You can visit inside only by guided tours. Doing the tour is the only way to see the grounds. The bi-lingual tour lasts 30 minutes. The tour goes through the historic building showing the bullfighting museum, areas where the horses and matadors enter, and the ring itself - which is one of the oldest in the world. Most of the presentation is in Spanish, but, the guide also translates to English. The guided tour is quite on the rush side. Regardless of views regarding the ethics of bullfighting - it is part of Spain’s culture and as such the tour gives an insight as to the importance of it. If not tolerant of the sport, don't come here. Great paintings of bullfights and bullfighters. The sparkly finery of the matador's costume is presented in living splendor.The pictures you get from the floor of the arena are amazing: 

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From Plaza De Toros De La Maestranza, Calle Adriano, 37 we were looking for a place to have a lunch. We headed east on Calle Adriano toward Calle López de Arenas and 140 m. further east we landed upon Hotel Adriano Sevilla, Calle Adriano, 12. We had a Paella and drinks in 10 € / couple. 

We return to Paseo de Cristóbal Colón and continue walking with our face to north-west. Soon, we see Punte de Isabel II on our left. In 1171, under the government of the Almohad caliph Abu Yacoub Yusuf, the so-called Bridge of the Boats was built, consisting of thirteen boats moored with chains supporting strong wooden planks. Its location was the current site of the bridge of Isabel II, El Castillo, on the Triana side, and at the height of the door in the wall, on the city side. Only in 1845, when construction began on the current bridge, was its location moved to the area in front of the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza. The design chosen was analogous to the Carrousel Bridge, now gone, which had been erected in Paris (near the Louvre Museum) over the Seine in 1834 by the French engineer Polonceau. The new bridge project over the Guadalquivir river was entrusted to French engineers Gustavo Steinacher and Fernando Bernadet, who had already been working on the Puerto de Santa María on the construction of another bridge. The materials used were stone and iron pillars, with no wood. On the Triana shore, a large containment ramp was built that reaches Calle San Jorge. The foundry pieces were built in Spain, specifically in Seville, in the workshops of the Bonaplata brothers. Construction began in 1845 and ended in 1852. The inauguration was held on February 23, 1852 with the celebration of a military parade. The bridge was declared a National Historic Monument on April 13, 1976. A year later, in 1977, it was restored with installing a new slab. The arches no longer have any structural function; they are purely decorative. It reopened on June 13, 1977:

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We cross the Guadalquivir river over the puente de Isabel II from north-east to south-west. The bridge ends, in the south in Calle San Jorge. We are in Triana:

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On our left (east) - a sculpture which overlooks Plaza del Altozano. The sculpture of the bullfighter Juan Belmonte stands out , very close to Triana and was inaugurated in 1972, the work of Venancio Blanco:

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Since the Middle Ages, the Altozano was an important place in the city because it was the starting point for the old bridge of boats that connected the Triana district with Seville. For the first time, the place name relative to Altozano appeared in 1533, mentioning the elevation of the land already existing to link with the bridge. The existence of this public space has been in history parallel to that of the bridge and the castle located next to it for its defense. Important milestones in its development were in 1787, when part of the defensive wall of the existing castle was demolished. Another important moment was the construction in 1845 of the current bridge of Triana, which made it necessary to significantly raise the height of the square. At the beginning of the 19th century , the suburb of Triana was quite populous and the Guadalquivir River was a clear separation from the rest of the city. This certain distancing led it to have its own cemetery, its parish and its market. The Plaza del Altozano is the reference center of the Triana district. The Murillo Pharmacy building stands out, built by the regionalist architect José Espiau y Muñoz between 1912 and 1914 and the home of José Gómez Millán, on the corner of Calle San Jacinto.

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From Plaza del Altozano we head southwest  toward Calle Pureza, 70 m. Continue onto Calle San Jorge, walk 110 m. southward and in the end of the road - you see Cermaica Triana, Calle Calao 14:

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Leave northeast on Calle Callao toward Callejón de la Inquisición, 40 m. Slight left onto Calle Castilla and walk north-west 160 m - to see, on your right, the Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la O de Sevilla, Calle Castilla, 30. The oldest church in Seville. An historic late-17th-century church in the Triana neighbourhood which was built after the will of King Alfonso X the Wise to thank Saint Anne for the healing his eyes.  Very nice facade. Built in Gothic-Mudejar style, some parts in Baroque style were rebuilt. Of particular note is the ornate Baroque retablo behind the main altar. This stupendous altarpiece is equipped with the statuary group of Sant'Anna, Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. In the chapel of Santa Justa and Rufina, there is an extremely realistic and impressive statue of San Francesco di Paola. Finally to visit also the crypt with statues and silvers. Entrance through the door of the square of Santa Ana. Opening hours (all year except AUGUST and Holidays). Mornings: From Monday to Thursday : from 10.30 . to 13.30, Friday from 11.00 to 13.30. Afternoons: From Monday to Friday : from 16.30 to 19.00:

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In the next turn we turn left (south-west) from Calle Castilla 

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tto Calle Procurador. In the next intersection we turn LEFT (SOUTH-east)  to Calle Alfareria. Very nice road. Ornate entrances to the houses. All with ceramics and deep green shutters:

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Calle Alfareria #21:

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After the quaint Alfareria road - we, suddenly meet the bustling Calle San Jacinto. We turn RIGHT (south) to Calle San Jacinto - full with bars. San Jacinto street is the main street of the popular Triana neighborhood. It begins at the Altozano square, at the end of the Triana bridge , and ends at the San Martín de Porres square. San Jacinto Street serves as a division between the Barrio de la Voluntad (Triana Este) and the Barrio de Triana Oeste. The stretch between Altozano and Pagés del Corro, is pedestrianized. The housing constructions in San Jacinto are very diverse, with traditional constructions predominating in their section closest to the Guadalquivir River , and the floor blocks on their opposite side, typical of the urban expansion that took place in Triana during the 40s. and 50 of the last century.

Calle San Jacinto  #27 - Old House of Socorro, work of Aurelio Gómez Millán (1928):

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Calle San Jacinto #33 - this traditional Sevillian house dating from 1900, designed by the architect Juan Talavera and de la Vega. It was built for the Mensaque Family, dedicated to the pottery and ceramics industry. Later it was bought by a banking entity and in the 80s it was handed over to the Seville City Council, which installed, here, the headquarters of the district of Triana:

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With our face to the south-west we walk along Calle San Jacinto and cross Calle Pagés del Corro. Immediately after this intersection, on our right, stands Parroquia de San Jacinto (Dominicos):

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Citywalk in , , visiting things to do in , Travel Blog, Share my Trip  We take the next turn to the left (south-east) , onto Calle Justino Matute. In this intersection we meet another wonderful ceramics:

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 We walk along Calle Justino Matute until its end and turn LEFT (north) onto Calle Evangelista. Here, again, we walk until the end of this road and RIGHT (east) onto Calle Pagés del Corro, and, immediately, LEFT (north) onto Calle Victoria. We take the 2nd turn to the right (east) onto Calle Pelay Correa. In the point where this road meets Calle Vázquez de Leca - stands the Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana. It is popularly known as the Cathedral of Triana. It began to be built in the year 1266 , 1 by order of King Alfonso X. Its origin is due, according to the inscription of one of its walls, to the cure of the monarch of a disease that suffered in his eyes, through the miraculous intervention of Santa Ana (see above). In the fifteenth century the construction process was continued, rising in the nave on the left, the so-called Captain Monte Bernardo Chapel consisting of two sections covered with starred vaults. In the middle of the 16th century , the Sacramental Chapel was built , closer to the head and with a square floor, and at the beginning of the 17th century the Baptismal Chapel , also square and covered with a hemispherical vault, was built. In 1680 the chapel was also covered Sacramental with a vault of the same type. The Lisbon earthquake of 1755 seriously damaged the building, which was remodeled by the architect Pedro de Silva. On the year 1920 , the Gothic façade of the nave on the left was restored. In 1972 the whole church had been restored:

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We turn to the left (north-east) to Calle Duarte and, immediately, RIGHT (south-east) to calle Betis. We continue walking south-east along Calle Betis. After passing Puente San Telmo (on our left) - we rrive to Plaza de Cuba. A popular Metro Station (#1) is situated here:

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The Museo de Carruajes (museum of Carriages) is in the eastern side of the square. We found this museum closed. Opening hours: From Monday to Friday from 09.00 to 14.00. FREE admission on Tuesdays. Prices: Normal rate 3. € 60, concessions: 2. € 40 (Children, students, retirees and groups of more than 10 people). Closed on Holidays. We change direction and turn to the north - crossing Puente San Telmo and San Telmo Palace on our right:

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Puente San Telmo (San Telmo Bridge) itself is a beautiful little structure and offers some great views down the River Guadalquivir and across to the Golden Tower and beyond. It takes traffic two ways and has a pedestrian walkway on both sides also. It is a low level two island arched bridge in white stone which is quite beautiful and sits very well within its surroundings. At night the bridge is lit up and offers a further view of a simple yet effective and attractive structure. There is a wonderful view of the Torre del Oro from Puente San Telmo:

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In the (north)end of Puente San Telmo we turn RIGHT (south-east) onto Paseo de las Delicias, 140 m. We turn left toward Calle Palos de la Frontera, 120 m and, again, right for 40 m. to see, in front of us the San Telmo Palace. Wonderful exteriors. Stunning architecture. Today is used as house for regional Government. This building has been a monastery, navigation school, palace and now the government headquarters for State of Andalusia. Not open to the public. You can visit the Palacio San Telmo by guided tour;  you have to call to check days and times, and make an appointment. Tel: 955 001 010. We recommend walking around the palace and its attached gardens. It is unbelievable how tis wonderful palace changes colours and tones with the position of the sun (and the clouds...). Along its north wall  there is a gallery of statues to the most famous residents of Seville. The main doorway is also very impressive. The gardens of Maria Luisa once used to be part of this palace.

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From San Telmo Palace, Calle Palos de la Frontera we head east toward Calle Doña María de Padilla, 350 m. Turn right toward Calle de Uruguay, 30 m.:

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Continue straight onto Calle de Uruguay, 40 m. Continue along Calle Uruguay, 100 m. Turn right onto Av. de Chile, 65 m and Teatro Lope de Vega is on the right. The Lope de Vega Theatre (Spanish: Teatro Lope de Vega) is a small Baroque Revival theatre that was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 - in the same building as the Exhibition Casino. It stands in the Maria Luisa Park just north of the Pavilion of Peru. The theater is named after the famous 16th-century Spanish playwright Lope de Vega. After the 1929 world exposition the theatre had a mixed history. It suffered damage from fire and flood. At times it was closed and at times was partially restored and reopened. The building has been used as a hospital and as a trade show venue. Following its most recent renovation the theatre has become one of Seville's most important centres for cultural events:

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We shall finish our day in the same point where we had started (Prado San Sebastian). In order to arrive to this central bus station - we have to pass through Plaza de España. From Teatro Lope de Vega head east on Av. de Chile toward Calle de Uruguay/Av. de María Luisa, 65 m. Turn right onto Calle de Uruguay/Av. de María Luisa, 50 m. Enter the gardens and turn left onto Av. Conde de Urbina and cross the gardens from west to east for 210 m. Turn left toward Plaza de España, 80 m.

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Citywalk in , , visiting things to do in , Travel Blog, Share my Trip  We still have 650 m. to return to the central bus station. Head southwest on Plaza España, 40 m. Turn right, 260 m. Turn right toward Calle Gral. Primo de Rivera (into the gardens again), 35 m. Turn left at Av. Portugal, 15 m (we are out of the gardens). Turn right toward Calle Gral. Primo de Rivera, 40 m. Turn left onto Calle Gral. Primo de Rivera, 200 m. Turn right and then, left onto Av. Carlos V, 60 m. to arrive to Prado De San Sebastian.

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