JUL 18,2019 - JUL 18,2019 (1 DAYS)
Paris - Hotel des Invalides, Musée Maillol, Rodin Museum and the Petit Palais:
Start: La Tour-Mabourg (Line 8), Invalides (Lines 8 and 13), Varenne (Line 13). RER: Line C - Invalides. End: Place Clemanceau (Line 2). Duration: 1 day. You will need the whole day - if you go for the details of the four museums. Try to arrive early as possible to the Les Invalides. The earliest opening museum and site in Paris. Weather: Any weather. Good and demanding itinerary for a wet or cloudy day. Distance: 10 km. Lunch: at Musée Maillol or Rodin Museum (a bit pricey, but, good quality).
Main attractions: Hotel des Invalides, Musée Maillol, Rodin Museum, Pont Alexander III, Petit Palais.
Tip 1: Hotel des Invalide. Tip 2: Musée Maillol. Tip 3: Rodin Museum and Petit Palais.
Note: Les Invalides has two entrances: Esplanade des Invalides - 129 rue de Grenelle and Place Vauban (southern entrance). Visitors with motor disabilities can enter on the Place Vauban side. We entered the side from Palce vauban.
The Museum is open every day. 1 April to 31 October: 10.00 to 18.00, 1 November to 31 March: 10.00 to 17.00. On Tuesdays, from April to September, the Dome is open until 21.00. In July and August, the Dome is open until 19.00. The Invalides site is open every day from 7.30 to 19.00 (until 21.00 on Tuesdays from April to September). Prices: Single ticket for : Musée de l'Armée, Tomb of Napoléon, Historial Charles de Gaulle, Musée de l'Ordre de la Libération, Musée des plans-reliefs: €12 (full price) / €10 (reduced rate). FREE entry for under 26 years from within the European Union. Free for disabled visitors and an accompanying person, jobseekers, French and foreign soldiers, journalists.
L'Hôtel national des Invalides (The National Residence of the Invalids), or also as Hôtel des Invalides, is a complex of buildings containing museums and monuments, all relating to the military history of France, as well as a hospital and a retirement home for war veterans, the building's original purpose. The buildings house the Musée de l'Armée, the military museum of the Army of France, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, and the Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine, as well as the Dôme des Invalides, a large church, the tallest in Paris at a height of 107 meters, with the tombs of some of France's war heroes - the most notably is Napoleon. In 1670, no foundation existed to house wounded and homeless veterans who had fought for France. Louis XIV, who was anxious about what would happen to soldiers that had served during his numerous campaigns, decided to build the Hôtel Royal des Invalides. Constructed from 1671 to 1676 by Libéral Bruant, then by Jules Hardouin-Mansart and Robert de Cotte, it is one the most prestigious monuments in Paris. In 1674, the first tenants of Les Invalides made these buildings their home. By the end of the century, there were over 4,000 soldiers and marines who had served in the French Armed Forces for over ten years and therefore could retire here. Contrary to what many might believe, these men spent most of their time studying and fixing shoes and army suits, among many other tasks.
Because of its location and significance, the Invalides served as the scene for several key events in French history. On 14 July 1789 it was stormed by Parisian rioters who seized the cannons and muskets stored in its cellars to use against the Bastille later the same day. Napoleon was entombed under the dome of the Invalides with great ceremony in 1840. In December 1894 the degradation of Captain Alfred Dreyfus was held before the main building, while his subsequent rehabilitation ceremony took place in a courtyard of the complex in 1906. The building retained its primary function of a retirement home and hospital for military veterans (invalides) until the early twentieth century. In 1872 the musée d'artillerie (Artillery Museum) was located within the building to be joined by the musée historique des armées (Historical Museum of the Armies) in 1896. The two institutions were merged to form the present musée de l'armée in 1905. During the second half of the 20th century, the entire site of the Hôtel National des Invalides was opened up to the public after small buildings were knocked down and a ditch created around the site. In 1981, a huge restoration project was undertaken at the Hôtel National des Invalides under the instigation of an interdepartmental commission co-directed by the Ministries of Defence and Culture to restore this exceptional site to its former glory. The modern complex does however still include the facilities detailed below for about a hundred elderly or incapacitated former soldiers. Today, under the Ministry of Defence but also occupied by numerous organizations that are part of other ministries, the Hôtel National des Invalides still retains its original function as a hospital and hospice for badly injured and disabled war veterans. It is a HUGE site and the grounds and interior locations are well maintained and beautifully kept.
The visit of the Invalides will consume half a day. It's a lot of walking so bring food and water. The grounds are lovely and you can take your time seeing everything. The cafe is a nice respite too and the food is good. Lunch in the cafe is quite good and reasonably priced. All in all, a great way to spend a morning or an afternoon in Paris - especially, if it raining or grey outside. This tourist site is relatively quiet which makes it a nice break from the typical Paris tourist crowds.
The northern entrance:
Statue of J.H. Mansart:
Hotel des Invalides - The Gardensץ The gardens help make this a peaceful place for the wounded and elderly:
Inside the museum complex, you come out into a courtyard with displays of guns, weapons, and a tank. This is the Artillery Museum area, displaying years of French military history. Here is where ceremonies have taken place over the history of the Invalides.
The inner court - view to the Northern Entrance:
The Dome from the Artillery Courtyard:
The Dome from the Artillery Courtyard - Napoleon statue on top of the Dome:
The Musée de l'Armée is, mainly, Interesting pieces of weaponry and uniforms from antiquity to Medieval to World War II. The suits of armor are particularly impressive. Also displayed are ancient Far-East armors as well. For the military buff, history buff or technology buff - this museum is well worth 1/2 a day minimum. Numerous rooms loaded with war memorabilia. One of the biggest collections of military arms anywhere in the world. This museum presents the MILITARY aspects of France history.
Napoleon's last horse:
The Museum for France in World Wars 1 and 2 contains exhibits covering the period 1870 to 1945. The museum traces the history of conflict of France with Germany from the Franco-Prussian war up to WW2 and explains how and why many things happened the way they did. The French experience of World War I is powerfully presented. The World War 2 story is lagging behind. The history of France is presented in an unusual way and exhibits and artifacts are exceptionally well done. This museum lays the HISTORICAL aspects of France heritage.
Saint-Louis-des-Invalides Cathedral: Located at the backside (southern) side of the Invalides complex. The cathedral was built for Louis XIV and the aged soldiers. Both would attend service every day, but would access the chapel through different doors. Église du Dôme (Church of the Dome): Built between 1677 and 1706, the royal chapel later became a military pantheon, where the remains of Napoleon I rest. From the outside the golden dome standing 100 metres tall is extremely impressive. The main attraction for us was to see Napoleon's tomb. SPECTACULAR. And it was huge and worth it. It is an amazing and grand space.
Upon entering the Dome church, notice the monumental bronze doors. The symbols of the King of France adorn their leaves:
Tomb of Napoleon:
The floor with the polychrome marble:
Eglise des Soldats (The Soldiers’ Chapel): This part of the church is decorated with hundreds of trophies taken from the country’s enemies, representing the French armed forces from 1805 up until the twentieth century.
The inner court - view to the Dome and Soldiers Church:
The Northern Entrance:
From the northern entrance/exit of Les Invalides, 129 Rue de Grenelle we continue to Musée Maillol. Head southwest toward Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg. Turn right toward Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg, 100 m. Turn right onto Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg, 50 m. Slight right toward Rue Fabert, 200 m. Turn right onto Rue de Grenelle, 1.1 km. Musée Maillol, 59-61 Rue de Grenelle is on your right.
MOVE TO TIP 2 below.
Tip 2: Paris - Hotel des Invalides, Musée Maillol, Rodin Museum and the Petit Palais (Cont.):
The museum is located at the intersection of the rue de Grenelle and the rue du Bac. Main transport facilities to Musée Maillol: by metro: Line 12, Rue du Bac station. By bus: Lines 63, 68, 69, 83, 84, 94 and 95. Opening hours: every day from 10.30 to 18.30. Late night opening on Fridays until 20.30. Last admission 30 minutes before the Museum closure. The Museum is wheelchair accessible. The Café des Frères Prévert (see below) is open from 11.30 to 18.30 and 10.30 m to 18.30 on Saturdays and Ssundays. Late-night opening on Fridays until 19.30. Backpacks and suitcases are not allowed in the Museum. Prices: Full rate: €13.5, Senior rate: 12.5 € (65 and more), Reduced rate: €11.5 (students, unemployed, disabled visitors and accompanying person and Education Pass holders), Youth rate: 9.5 € (7-25 years old), Family rate: 40 € (for 2 adults and 2 children aged 7 to 25). FREE for children under the age of 7. The main reason for visiting Musée Maillol during July 2019 was the once-in-life experience, one of the all time best Impressionists exhibition - over 50+ rare paintings, found after the war, by Emil Bührle, arms dealer. Some are rare, never seen paintings. Everybody would agree this Musée is a little gem and away from the crowds of other Paris museums. The permanent collection may only appeal to the minority. BUT, we, heartily, recommend this splendid museum, if temporary exhibit is worth it! We were absolutely fortunate to see this one-time only fascinating private collection of Emile Buhrle, which has an intriguing WWII past. As an huge Impressionistic fan, this private collection was very breath-taking and impressive. Do not miss this limited exhibition. If you want to ever see these works again, you will need to visit Zurich, Switzerland starting in 2020.
Musée Maillol - The Entrance to the Museum:
Originally, Maillol Museum is dedicated to Aristide Maillol (1861-1944), known for his sculptures, mainly, of female nudes. The permanent exhibition also displays the work of some of his contemporaries, such as van Gogh and Picasso. This museum, started by Dina Vierny, Maillol's favorite model and muse, is located in a lovely 18th-century townhouse and is well maintained and nicely curated. We found Maillol's works very impressive. One of the first modern sculptors and one of the most reputed and admired in France. Other creations by him on display include drawings, paintings, tapestry and pottery. The temporary exhibition are, most of the times, top-notch.
Femme assise à l'ombrelle:
Dina Vierny - his main muse and model:
Deux Baigneuses au Torrent:
The Collection of Emil Buhrle was an outstanding, beautiful exhibition of paintings. This is the type of great exhibition which circulates among great cities such as New York, Tokyo, Zurich, Paris or London. The story behind the history of the paintings and that of the collector Emil Buhrle are fascinating. Among the paintings on show were some of the finest french paintings ever produced: Van Gogh, Cezanne, Sisley, Pissarro, Degas, Renoir, Corot, Toulouse-Lautrec, Vuillard, Picasso, Manet, Monet. A rare opportunity and amazing collection. It is a slice of French culture walking through the rooms. A wonderful museum to walk around. Don't miss it.
Edouard Manet - Lesuicide:
Edouard Manet - Oloron-Sainte-Marie:
Edouard Manet - Les Hirondelles:
Cezanne - Tentation de Saint Antoine:
Alfred Sisley - Eye a Bbougival:
Claude Monet - Champ de coquelicots près de Vétheuil:
Degas - Petite Danseuse:
Renoir - La Source, 1906:
Renoir - Portrait d'Irène Cahen d'Anvers:
Renoir - Le deux fillettes:
Corot - La Liseuse:
Toulouse-Lautrec - Confettis:
Toulouse-Lautrec - Au Lit:
Toulouse-Lautrec - Messuline, 1900-1901:
Raoul Dufy - Le Fete Foraine:
Pierre Bonnard - Le Dejeuner Edoure:
Vuillard - Le Visiteur:
Gauguin - Nature Morte au Couteau:
Gauguin - L'Offerande Van Gogh:
Paul Gauguin - Tête de Paysan:
Paul Gauguin - Des Ponts d'Asnières:
Paul Gauguin - Semeur, Soleil Couchant:
Van Gogh - Branches de Marronnier en Fleur, 1890:
Van Gogh - Autoportrait:
Cézanne - Le Garçon au Ggilet Rouge (1888-1890):
Cézanne - Le Jardinier Vallier:
Amadeo Modigliani - Nu couché:
Pablo Picasso L'Italienne, c.1917:
Derain - Scene d'Lintenieur:
Continue to Tip 3 below:
Tip 3: Paris - Hotel des Invalides, Musée Maillol, Rodin Museum and the Petit Palais (Cont.):
The Café des Frères Prévert in Musée Maillol is an high-class restaurant. We got lunch there and the main dishes are around 18 euros each. Purée of Cauliflower and Brocoli + Salmon fish + Vegetables Guvetch ( Italian Ratatouille) - 17-18 euros. Small portions. Delicious. Posh service. Charming place with very pleasant atmosphere. Nice experience.
Sculpture in the restaurant - Le Grand Babet - Emile Gilioli:
From Musée Maillol, 59-61 Rue de Grenelle we head northwest on Rue de Grenelle toward Rue du Bac, 35 m. We turn left onto Rue du Bac, 130 m. and, then, turn right onto Rue de Varenne. After walking 200 m. north-west along Rue de Varenne - we see the house at #56:
The next intersection is of the roads: rue de Varrene and rue Vaneau. In this intersection stand two mansions: Hotel Prat and Hotel Mazarin:
We walk 300 m. further north-west and arrive to Rodin Museum, 77 Rue de Varenne. Public transport to Rodin Museum: Metro : Varenne (line 13) or Invalides (line 13, line 8),R.E.R : Invalides (line C), Bus : 69, 82, 87, 92. Opening hours: everyday except Mondays: 10.00 to 18.30. Museum closed on 1 January, 1 May and 25 December. The museum will close on 24 and 31 December at 16.45. Last tickets at 16.:15. Prices: Full - 12 €, Concessions
(Non-EU residents aged 18-25) - 9 €, Combined tickets Musée Rodin Paris + Musée d'Orsay - 21 €.
It has two sites: the Hôtel Biron and surrounding grounds. Located in this 18th-century hotel (Hotel Biron), Musee Rodin holds an impressive collection of works by this famous French sculptor and his lover Camille Claudel. Rodin used the Hôtel Biron as his workshop from 1908, and subsequently donated his entire collection of sculptures – along with paintings by Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir that he had acquired – to the French State on the condition that they turn the buildings into a museum dedicated to his works. The Musée Rodin contains most of Rodin's significant creations, including The Thinker, The Kiss and The Gates of Hell. The museum also features an exquisite garden and a temporary exhibition hall. The beautiful house is filled with sculptures and paintings. The grounds are well maintained and nice to walk through. These features, with the museum's high walls keep the noise of the hustle out and you can roam through the gardens looking at amazing sculptures. Enjoy, particularly the lovely view down the gardens from the upstairs open doors. There's, also, a splendid little cafe where you can get drinks and food at. Note: NO AC inside. Avoid the museum in very hot days !
Entrance to the Museum Garden:
Some history about the site: the estate was put up for sale and while awaiting a buyer, tenants were allowed to occupy the Hôtel Biron from 1905. Among them were several artists, the writer Jean Cocteau (1889-1963), the painter Henri Matisse, the dancer Isadora Duncan and the sculptress Clara Westhoff (1878-1954), future wife of the poet Rainer Maria Rilke (1875-1921), who first told Auguste Rodin about the estate. In 1908, the sculptor thus rented four south-facing, ground-floor rooms opening onto the terrace, to use as his studios. The garden that had run wild probably made a strong impression on Rodin, encouraging him to place some of his works and part of his collection of antiques amidst its greenery. From 1911 onwards, he occupied the entire building.
Monument to Balzac - 1898:
Monumentto the Burghers of Calais,1889:
The Gates of Hell, 1880-circa 1890:
The Painter, Museum Garden:
The Three Shades:
Monument to Victor Hugo:
Age of Maturity - Camille Claudelle:
We continue north-west along rue de Varrene and see Hotel des Invalides from this road:
Continue on Rue de Varenne toward Boulevard des Invalides. Turn right onto Boulevard des Invalides, 210 m. Turn left back onto Rue de Grenelle, 150 m. Turn right onto Rond-Point du Bleuet de France, 65 M. Turn right onto Avenue du Maréchal Gallieni, 450 m. Cross the Seine over Pont Alexandre III:
From Pont Alexander II continue northward onto Avenue Winston Churchill. Soon, you'll see the Winston Churchill Statue, 13 Avenue Winston Churchill,
on your right -
just before arriving to the Petit Palais:
Opening hours: TUE-SUN (Mondays closed): 10.00 - 18.00. FREE. Highly recommended ! Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition and completely renovated in 2005, the Petit Palais offers an artistic panorama from antiquity through the 20th century: ancient and medieval collections, precious art objects from the French and Italian Renaissance, Flemish and Dutch paintings, icons, 18th century work, French paintings and sculptures from the 19th century - Courbet, Carpeaux, Cezanne, Vuillard - and Art Nouveau creations. The displays are very well laid-out, well described and well lit and offer a choice selection of really good examples - art nouveau glass and jewellery, painting by famous artisits (like Rembrandt, Hobbema etc), French sculpture and Parisian art, china and enamel work, medieval art etc'. The Petit Palais is a magnificent magnificent experience on its own. A permanent art and objets collections. Outstanding architecture. Wonderful temporary exhibitions (sometime with a special fee) (Yan Pei-Ming / Courbet temporary exhibition until winter 2020), and, always, attention to detail. Unforgettable inner courtyard - arbouretum and intricately detailed mosaic floors and frescoes. The Petit Palais was built for the Exposition Universelle (Universal Exhibition) in 1900. It is very similar to the Grand Palais, located just across the street.
A large entrance hall with a cupola decorated with murals will introduce you to two lateral galleries with decorated vaulted ceilings:
We bring here a few sculptures and pictures from the Permanent Collection. You'll see, below, more pictures, from the permanent collections, sequenced by periods of time.
from Antoine Bourdelle - Le Fruit, 1906:
Camille Alaphilippe - La Femme au Singe:
Ground floor rooms:
Room 29: The White Ball (Bal Blanc), Joseph-Marius Avy, 1903:
Room 23: Marietta, Camille Corot, 1843:
L'Eglise de Moret (le soir), Alfred Sisley, 1894:
Room 25, Canteleau, Camille Corot, 1872:
A pleasant garden will offer the opportunity to relax, and have a light meal, far from the crowd of the close Champs-Elysees.
Gorgeous restaurant-cafe in the courtyard (a bit pricey):
From 1902 the Petit Palais became the home of the Palais des Beaux-Arts of the City of Paris, housing a Permanent Collection of fine arts from antiquity to the dawn of the 20th century.
The Classical World. Roman artworks from the 4th to 1st century BC as well as precious artifacts from ancient Greece and the Etruscan empire:
Herakles in the garden of the Hesperides, painting on Vase:
Ceramics, painting of horse (mule) head from Colmar, unknown artist:
Renaissance: 15th - 17th centuries. Ojects of art, paintings, furniture and books from France, Northern Europe, Italy and the Islamic World:
Judjement of Paris, unknown painter:
Portrait of Joost van Bronkhorst, Jan Mostaert:
17th through the 19th centuries:
Self-portrait in Oriental Attire, Rembrandt:
The Little Alms Collector, Jan Steen:
Young Shepherd Holding a Flower, Jean-Baptiste Greuze:
Young Ladies on the Seine, Gustave Courbet:
The Sleepers, Gustave Courbet:
Francis I facings the Last Breaths of Leonardo da Vinci, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres:
Paris 1900s. focusing on the sumptuous art nouveau movement and featuring stunning paintings, glasswork, sculptures, jewelry and other mediums. Featured artists in this last section include the likes of Gustave Doré, Eugene Delacroix, Pierre Bonnard, Cézanne, Maillol, Rodin, Renoir, crystal makers Baccarat and Lalique, and many more:
Portrait of Sarah Bernhardt, Georges Clairin:
The Parisienne, Charles-Alexandre Giron:
Three Bathers, Paul Cézanne:
The four seasons, Paul Cézanne:
Female bathers at Perros-Guirec, Maurice Denis:
Exit the Petit Palais. The closest Metro station is in Place Clemanceau (opposite the museum/palace):