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  • Citywalk
    Updated at Dec 16,2014

    From Deák tér (Deák square) to Erzsébet tér ( Erzsébet square)  circular route: 3/4 day - 1 day.

    Start: Deák Ferenc tér metro station. End:   Deák Ferenc tér metro station.

    Attractions: St. Stephen's Basilica or Szent István-bazilika, Széchenyi István tér, Adam Clark Square, Shoes on the Danube Bank, Hungarian Parliament, Kossuth Lajos tér, Museum of Ethnography, Olimpia park, Jászai Mari tér, Margit híd, Alkotmány utca, House of Hungarian Art Nouveau, Liberty Square (Szabadság tér), Október 6. utca, Erzsébet Square (Erzsébet tér).

    Tip 1: from Deák tér to Liberty Square (Szabadság tér).

    Tip 2: from Október 6. utca to Deák tér.

    Orientation: a preliminary itinerary, mainly in the Pest part of Budapest. Covering the main highlights of Pest. Suitable for your first half a day in this wonderful and magnificent city. A first-glance route for purely beginners.

    Head west on Deák Ferenc tér and turn right to stay on Deák Ferenc tér,
    180 m. The Deák Ferenc square (Deák Ferenc tér), named for Ferenc Deák -- 17 October 1803 – 28 January 1876, a Hungarian statesman and Minister of Justice.  It is a major intersection and transport junction in Budapest. Károly körút, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út, Király utca, Deák Ferenc utca, and Harmincad utca converge here. The three lines of the Budapest Metro each have a station under the square.

    Anker House or Anker Palace or Anker-ház - 6 Deák Ferenc tér. The Anker House was the the first block of flats in Budapest (1907), offering home for many people. Its name was given after its constructor, the "Anker Life and Pension Insurance Company". Ignác Alpár was the designer of this building. The company desired a remarkable front for its promotions, so the plan of the building had two towers on both corner and tent-shaped roof ornamented with sculptures on the edges. Alpár substituted the roof with a huge pyramid, therefore he was strongly criticized by the the authority of the city.

    The Erzsébet tér, a large green 19th century square/park is on both of your sides. Turn left onto József Attila utca, 80 m (Attila Jozsef, Hungary's most loved 20th century poet). The Erzsébet tér is on your left.

    Turn right onto Sas utca, 160 m. The Rézkakas Bistro is on your right. A bit further the Misto Bistro, Sas Utica 9,  is on your right. Lovely food and very reasonable cost:

    Turn right onto Szent István tér, 80 m. The Danubius Centre (on the corner of Hercegprímás utca is on your left. Turn left to stay on Szent István tér. You've arrived to St. Stephen's Basilica or Szent István-bazilika.

    It is named in honour of Stephen, the first King of Hungary (c 975–1038), whose right hand is housed in the reliquary. St. Stephen  converted the nomad Hungarian tribes into Christianity, thus managed to found a strong state between Western and Eastern European empires of the era. Today, it is the third largest church building in present-day Hungary. It is 96 m. high. According to current regulations there cannot be taller building in Budapest than 96 metres. This is the most important church building in Hungary, one of the most significant tourist attractions. It was completed in 1905 after 54 years of construction, according to the plans of Miklós Ybl, and was completed by József Kauser. It took more than 5 decades and 3 architects to build Budapest's Basilica. Several misfortunate events delayed the works. József Hild made the designs in 1845 but because of the 1848/49 Revolution and War of Independence works started only in 1851. József Hild designed a large neoclassical basilica similar to the basilica in Esztergom. The ground plan forms a Greek cross. Because of the vicinity of the Danube huge foundations had to be constructed that resulted in an underground cellar almost as large as the subsurface building.

    After the death of Hild, Miklós Ybl, designer of the Opera House took over overseeing the construction. After Hild's death Ybl reworked the plans creating a neo-Renaissance style church. You can recognise Ybl's work at the main facade and the wall along Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. In 1868 the dome collapsed, luckily nobody died. Ybl drew up new plans and building started again almost from scratch. He couldn't see his work completed, since he died in 1891. József Krauser finished St Stephen's Basilica in 1906. According to the rumor, at the consecration mass Emperor Francis Joseph kept looking upwards afraid of another collapse of the dome. The building suffered heavy damages during the bombings in World War II. Many art treasures and precious documents survived down there the second world war. Reconstructions have only started in the 1980-ies and were finished just recently.

    The façade has two large bell towers. In the southern tower is Hungary's biggest bell. Visitors may access the dome by elevators or by climbing 303 stairs.

    Also, the most famous Hungarian soccer player (considered to be one of the best in the World), Puskas, is buried here in the Basilika...

    Buildings near St. Stephen's Basilica square:

    Habsburg-Prusian soldier sculpture near Szent Istvan Ter in Zvinyi Utca‎:

    From time to time there is a spectacular laser show projected onto the front of the cathedral.

    Open: MON - FRI: 9.00 - 17.00, SAT: 9.00-13.00, SUN: 13.00-17.00.
    Admission: free (except the lookout in the cupola, that can be visited from spring to autumn, you can enquire at Tel. (+36 1) 311 0839 about exact opening hours before visiting it). Free ... but, except been pressured into making a donation of 200 HUF in the entrance...

    Guided Tours in English: Phone: (+36 1) 338 2151. MON-FRI: 10.00 - 15.00. The guided tour includes: Chapel and the floodlit Holy Right of St. Stephen, Treasury, Panorama view from the cupola (only between 1st April-31st October). Tickets: 1 600 HUF for an adult (without going up the cupola: 1100 HUF), 1 200 HUF for pensioners and students (without going up the cupola: 900 HUF). Remember: The look-out in the cupola can be visited between 1st April-31st October.

    The church has a rooftop with a 360 view of the city. You have to pay small fee for climbing up there - (500 HUF). You can take lifts most of the way (there are 303 steps). The view from the top is amazing and a great way to get an overview of the city and sites as well as some terrific photos. From here you will have the best view of the Danube and the Parliament building:

    It also has spiral stairs that make a great picture:

    The 96 m high Dome stands out from the mass of office buildings and apartments in Pest. Four pillars hold the massive structure. A fresco of God the Father dominates the center of the cupola. Between 1st April-31st October you can admire one of Budapest's best panoramic views from the right tower. An elevator takes you up until halfway; from there you have to climb up on stairs. You'll climb out into the inside of the dome in a wrought iron construction and you'll get to the space between the outside and inside of the dome. Quite an exciting adventure, but the view will compensate you for the trouble:

    Copper engravings at the top of the dome:

    stained-glass windows at the top of the dome:

    Music at the Basilica: In the past century the Basilica has been home to choral music, classical music as well as contemporary musical performances. The Basilica choir performs often in different parts of Europe as well as at home. In the summer months, every Sunday you can see performances from many distinguished Hungarian and foreign organ players alike. Concerts take place Thursday evenings and last a little over an hour. There are also 15 minute "mini concerts" on Fridays. You'll be moved by the gorgeous choir. The organ concerts (usually, on Mondays evenings) are performed by one of Hungary's most talented pipe organ players Kolos Kováts. Price of the Concert: 1st cat: 30 EUR/7 800 HUF, 2nd cat: 24.25 EUR/6 300 HUF, 3rd cat: 17.3 EUR/4 500 HUF. Students: 1st cat: 28 EUR/7 300, 2nd cat: 22.70 EUR/5 900 HUF, 3rd cat: 16.15 EUR/4 200 HUF.

     Tip: come during a service on Sundays mornings.


    The architecture and the interior decoration, as a whole, are stunning and  breathtaking. Although it's a bit dark inside, you can still admire the marvelous frescoes, statues and mosaics. The incredibly ornate interior features about 50 different types of marble. The chapels are elaborately decorated with many sculptures, including a bust of the Basilica’s patron saint, who was the first Christian king of Hungary. The interior is lit by spotlights, highlighting the ceiling paintings, the high altar and some of the side chapels. Ionic columns and statues of the twelve apostles adorn the outside walls.

    Main Altar: statue of St. Stephen carved out from Carrara marble by Alajos Strób. The Patrona Hungariae Altar by Gyula Benczúr depicts St Stephen offering the Hungarian Crown to the Virgin Mary and asking her to be a patron of Hungary:

    The acoustics inside are superb. The magnificent organ sounds heavenly. Don't miss the stained-glass windows:

    Window depicting St. Margaret:

    Follow the transept to the back left side of the altar to a smaller rear chapel. Here you will find a reliquary with the hand of St. Stephen in it. This relic is considered national icon of Hungary – the right hand of St. Stephen. It is one thousand years old... On 20th August the Holy Right is carried around the Basilica in a procession.

    The Szent Jobb (Holy Right Hand):

    From Szent Istvan Ter (the square in front of the Basilica) we head to the Széchenyi István tér. These are two distinct squares (quite similar names...) with 600 m. (10 minutes) walk.  Head north on Szent István tér
    10 m. Turn left to stay on Szent István tér, 80 m. Turn left back onto Sas utca, 18 m. Turn right onto Zrínyi utca, 75 m. Turn left onto Október 6. utca, 95 m. Turn right onto Mérleg utca, 260 m and turn right onto Széchenyi István tér. A lovely patch of grass, flowers and trees - surrounded by heavy traffic. There are very few ways to get to this park, with few crosswalks, without risking being hit by a car. The square was named Roosevelt tér in 1947 after the American president Franklin Delano Roosevelt. This square has been recently renamed to honour the designer of the Chain Bridge, which it faces. It is beautifully nestled at the foot of the iconic Chain bridge of Budapest and offers among the best views of Castle Hill in Buda.

    The buildings around the square - clockwise:

    The Hungarian Academy of Sciences (Magyar Tudományos Akadémia), founded by Count István Széchenyi, is at the northern end of the square.

    The Art Nouveau building with the gold tiles to the east is Gresham Palace , built by an English insurance company in 1907. It now houses the aristocratic Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel:

    On the southern end of Széchenyi István tér is a statue of Ferenc Deák , the Hungarian minister largely responsible for the Compromise of 1867, which brought about the Dual Monarchy of Austria and Hungary:

    The statue on the western side is of an Austrian and a Hungarian child holding hands in peaceful bliss. The Danube and the Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd) are also on the west.

    Step on the Chain Bridge ((Széchenyi Lánchíd)) to get a wonderful view of Széchenyi István tér (your face to the east and back to the west):

    Crosss the Danube over the Széchenyi Chain Bridge from east to west - from Pest to Buda. Designed by the English engineer William Tierney Clark, it was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Hungary, and was opened in 1849. We start, crossing the bridge and the Danube, on the Pest side of the river in Széchenyi (formerly Roosevelt) Square, and we end it on the Buda side in Adam Clark Square, near the  lower end of the Castle Hill Funicular, leading to Buda Castle. Its construction was proposed by Count István Széchenyi, one of the leading figures in 18th century Hungary. Its official name is Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Works were started in 1839 to the plans of English engineer William Tierney Clark with the financial support of Baron György Sina, a Viennese financier. The construction was supervised by Scottish engineer Adam Clark, who later on went on to marry a Hungarian girl and settled down in Hungary. The place at the Buda end of the bridge has been named after him. The inauguration of the Chain Bridge took place on 20 November 1849. At the time of its construction, the Chain Bridge was regarded as one of the modern world's engineering wonders. Its decorations made of cast iron, and its construction, radiating calm dignity and balance, have elevated the Chain Bridge to a high stature in Europe. It became a symbol of advancement, national awakening, and even of the linkage between East and West. The lions at each of the abutments were carved in stone by the sculptor, János Marschalkó. They are visibly similar in design to the famous bronze lions of Trafalgar Square - but, they are smaller, were installed 15 years before those of Trafalgar Square and appear from below to lack tongues. But it is only a legend: the lions do very well, have tongues, however, these can only be seen from above... At the Buda end, their plinth also contains the coats of arms of the families Széchenyi and Sina cast by András Gál. The lions sculptures have luckily survived the destruction of World War II. At the end of World War II, retreating German troops blew up all bridges of Budapest, among them also the Chain Bridge on 18 January 1945. The bridge was destroyed nearly completely, only its pillars remained intact. The decision to rebuild it was made in the spring of 1947. The construction work was started: pillar portals were being extended, abutments broadened, custom-houses pulled down, a pedestrian subway installed at the Buda end and the tram subway completed on the Pest side. The inhabitants of Budapest were finally able to repossess one of the most renowned buildings of the city on 20 November 1949, exactly hundred years after its initial inauguration. 

    The whole length of the bridge amounts to 380 meters, it is 14.8 meters in width. It contains two traffic lanes, being only 6.45 meters wide each, and pavements at the two rims. The two river piers are 48 meters high.

    Before dropping off the bridge - give another look along the whole length of the Chain Bridge - from west to east:

    At the Buda end we arrive to the Adam Clark square (named after the chief engineer of the bridge construction and who designed the all-important tunnel (alagút) under Castle Hill, which took just eight months to carve out of the limestone in 1853). Its centre is decorated with  flower beds from spring to autumn. You can also find an oddly shaped oval stone here, the milestone "0" (easily missed) carved by Miklós Borsos. It has been placed on the south-western part of the square since 1975, and it marks the fact that the main roads of Hungary all set off here, making it the starting point for the counting of kilometers. The square also hosts one of the termini of the Buda Hill Funicular which takes you up to Buda Castle within a couple of minutes and 1100 HUF, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the panorama of Budapest with the Chain Bridge. This is kind of a "hub" where you can take a funicular up to the Castle Hill, take a bus or a walk over the Chain Bridge to Pest side. Really crowded and full of street vendors, roaring cars and buses and full with smoke and noise:

    View of the Parliament from the Chain Bridge in Adam Clark square:

    View of the Buda tunnel and funicular from the Chain Bridge in Adam Clark square:

    From here we head for 1 km. to the Hungarian Parliament. Retrace your steps and cross back the Danube on the Chain Bridge - your back to the west and your face to the east - from Buda back to Pest. From the Pest end of the Széchenyi Lánchí - head northeast toward Belgrád rkp, 60 m.
    Continue onto Belgrád rkp, 35 m. Slight left onto Széchenyi rkp., 500 m. (***) (see below the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial monument). When you cross Zoltan Utca, on your right - turn left to the Danube - to see the Shoes on the Danube Bank. No visit to Budapest is complete without visiting the Shoes on the Danube sculpture and hearing the haunted voices of the Holocaust in Hungary. If you're in the area, don't forget to walk through the Danube Promenade and pass by the Shoes on the Danube Bank, the memorial sculpture that honors the Jews who were killed by fascist militiamen in Budapest during WWII. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. It represents their shoes left behind on the bank. The memorial is by Gyula Pauer and Can Togay, and was erected on the east bank of the Danube in 2005:

    Continue along Széchenyi rkp, north, 200 m. further. The Danube river is on your left. Turn right onto Kossuth Lajos tér. 70 m.
    Turn (twice) left to stay on Kossuth Lajos tér, 280 m. You are facing the  Hungarian Parliament Building. Opening hours: 1 APR – 31 OCT MON – FRI: 8.00 – 18.00. SAT - SUN: 8.00  – 16.00. 1 NOV - 31 MAR MON – SUN: 8.00 – 16.00. Visits to the House of Parliament are restricted during weeks in which the National Assembly holds its sittings. On the first day of the plenary, the building will be accessible to visitors from 8.00 to 10.00 and the ticket office will be open until 11.00. There are NO guided tours on national/bank holidays: 15 MAR, 20 AUG and 23 OCT. There are also NO visits to the House of Parliament on the following days: 1 JAN, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, 1 MAY, 1 NOV and 24 – 26 DEC. Prices: Full price -  HUF 4000 (about $16 or 13 euros), Students (ages 6-24) - HUF 2000, EU citizens (adults) - HUF 2000, EU citizens (students) (ages 6-24) - HUF 1000, Visitors under 6 years of age - FREE. Same-day tickets can be purchased in limited numbers at our ticket office in the Visitor Center. (Please note that purchasing tickets on the spot might take a considerable amount of time.) Advance tickets are available online at Please be advised that the online provider charges an e-fee of HUF 200 (about 75 cents) per ticket in accordance with its Purchase Policy. If you get the tickets online, you have the option to select the time that matches the language of the tour. The numbers in a group are limited and so don't wait to the last minute. Guided tours times by Languages: • Hungarian: 10.30, 13.30, • English: 10.00, 12.00, 13.00, 14.00, 15.00, • French: 11.00, 13.30, • Hebrew: 12.30, • German: 10.00, 13.00, 14.00, • Russian: 12.30, 15.15, • Italian: 10.15, 13.15, 14.15, 15.30, • Spanish: 10.15, 13.15, 14.15, 16.00. Buying the tickets at the Visitor Center of the Parliament Building can be problematic as you might be disappointed about getting the tour time you want. You enter the Parliament Building Security Screening at the tour time selected, not before. The tour last about 50 minutes and the guides are very knowledgeable.

    Getting to the Parliament Building: Take the Subway (M2) to Kossuth tér, or Streetcar 2, which runs along the Pest riverfront and has a stop at Kossuth tér.


    • If you are eligible for ticket discounts, you are required to produce proof of eligibility when you make your purchase. When purchasing advance discount tickets online, you must produce proof of eligibility as you enter the building. Don't forget ID as EU citizens get in for half the price as non EU citizens.
    • A security check is required prior to entering the House of Parliament. You must not enter the building with large bags, packages or objects capable of causing personal injury, such as pocket knives, knives, gas spray etc. It is forbidden to enter the building with weapons, firearms, ammunition, explosives, blasting agents or related devices, or any pyrotechnic devices. Please visit the Budapest Parliament without bulky luggage or carry-on bag.
    • It is strictly forbidden to take photographs in the great Dome Hall. However, taking pictures or using video cameras is allowed in other parts of the building.
    • The House of Parliament is accessible to people with disabilities. Request assistance from our staff at the ticket office or entrance gate.
    • Apart from guide dogs, no other animals are permitted inside the building.
    • There is a very nice cafe and restrooms in the Visitor Center. If your tour is shortly after lunch time, the cafe is a good place to have lunch.

    Hungary, officially the Republic of Hungary, is a parliamentary republic. Its legislature is the unicameral National Assembly, which has 386 representatives, elected for a four-year term. The election system is said to be one of the most complicated in Europe. Half of the representatives are elected in single-seat constituencies, half of them on party lists. The Prime Minister is elected by a majority of votes of the members of parliament. The President of the Republic, elected for a five-year term, has more of a ceremonial role. Technically he is the Commander in Chief of the armed forces and he nominates the Prime Minister.

    The Hungarian Parliament Building (Országház) is the seat of the National Assembly of Hungary, one of Europe's oldest legislative buildings, a popular tourist destination of Budapest. It lies in Lajos Kossuth Square, on the bank of the Danube. It is currently the largest building in Hungary and still the tallest building in Budapest. Nearly half a million visitors see the House of Parliament annually. The building is open nearly every day of the year for visits led by trained guides who speak numerous languages. After purchasing their tickets, groups depart from the newly inaugurated Visitor Centre to take a tour of approximately 50 minutes through the most beautiful rooms in the building.

    The Hungarian Parliament, built in 1896 for the 1,000 year anniversary of the founding of Hungary is a huge and gorgeous building, both inside and outside. As the millennial celebrations of 1896 approached, the nation's demand for representation channeled the conception of a unique Parliament building. The Palace of Westminster in part inspired the design, but a well-known Hungarian architect, Imre Steindl, laid out the plans in their entirety. The building stretches 268 meters in its length, along the Danube embankment. Ornamented with white neo-Gothic turrets and arches, it forms the most outstanding landmark of the Pest side horizon. Statues of Hungarian monarchs and military commanders decorate the outer walls.

    The commanding building of Budapest Parliament stretches between Chain Bridge and Margaret Bridge on the Pest bank of the Danube and is the 3rd largest in Europe. It is a very beautiful building with all its spires and towers. The building has 27 doors, 29 staircases, and 13 elevators. Over a thousand people worked on the construction of it, during which 40 million bricks, half a million precious stones and 40 kilograms (88 lb) of gold were used. In addition to planetary, conference and session rooms, it includes over 200 offices. The symmetrical arrangement of the building is designed to serve a double chamber system, similar to the Capitol in Washington. The huge dome hall in the middle was designed for joined sessions. This part of the building was the first to be completed, hosting the parliament millennial section of 1896. 16 statues of Hungarian kings and rulers, along with their coat of arms, ornate the walls: St. István, St. László, Kálmán Könyves, András the 2nd, Béla the 4th, Lajos Nagy, János Hunyadi and Mátyás Hunyadi, kings of Hungary, followed by Transylvanian monarchs: István Báthori, István Bocskai, Gábor Bethlen and György Rákóczi the first; and three Habsburg rulers: III. Károly the 3rd, Terézia Mária and Lipót the 2nd.

    The façade of the parliament faces the river Danube, but the official main entrance is on the opposite side on Kossuth tér:

    Stunning building to see at any time, especially at night:

    The best if you see the parliament building, at night, from a cruise boat along the Danube:

    As Hungary resorted to a single chamber system at the end of 1944, the northern conference room (once serving the upper chamber) is often used for international conferences. The southern conference room came to host the chamber of deputies. With excellent acoustics, the 25 meters long, 23 meters wide, and 17 meters high room originally seated 438 deputies, while an inner circle of velvet chairs seated the ministers. The pulpit seated the president and the notaries. Wall paintings depict historical events, statues represent allegoric figures of honoured virtues.
    The Parliament also includes an extensive library of around half-a-million books and documents, handled by a modern information system. The huge reading-room is situated on the lower floor.

    The square in front of the building, Kossuth Lajos tér,  is also nice and there is a very nice park quite close to the building.

    The Parliament is actually on the Pest side but it is right on the River so if you stand in front, you can't see most of it unless you look straight up (not the best view). The best views can be from the opposite (Buda) side of the river next to Batthyány tér metro station (only one stop by subway from Kossuth square on the M2 line) or from the Fisherman's Bastion or any place up on Castle Hill in Buda:

    Changing of the guard is every hour by the hour and might be interesting considering the fact there are only 2-3 soldiers:

    The Parliament interiors:
    The design of the interior of the building is breathtaking, and as magnificent as the exterior. The interiors are rich and sunk in gold, everything is golden. The Parliament has about 691 rooms but you will only be taken to about four. The tour takes about 45 minutes, and is well worth the price. It covers the main entrance stairs and hall, one of the lobbies, the old House of Lords and the Hungarian Crown Jewels. The tour begins with a climb up the decorative, gold-plated Staircase XVII (the ceremonial staircase)

    to the most spectacular floor of the building, the main floor. Framed by statues, stained glass windows and rich, decorative frescoes, this urban corridor offers a lovely view of the recently renovated Kossuth Square, the Main Square of the Nation.

    The Hungarian Coronation Regalia is the most prized treasure; it includes the Holy Crown, the orb, the sceptre and a Renaissance sword. The Hungarian Crown Jewels were lost and stolen numerous times. After World War II, they were transported to Western Europe and eventually given to the American Army for safekeeping from the Soviet Union. For much of the Cold War, the Crown Jewels were held at the United States Bullion Depository (Fort Knox, Kentucky) alongside the bulk of America's gold reserves. They were eventually returned to Hungary under the presidency of Jimmy Carter in 1978. This is the coronation crown used to crown kings since the twelfth century. Our tour guide emphasized that the power to rule the country lays in this crown and if you weren’t crowned with it then you are not a legitimate king:

    Afterwards, visitors can marvel at The Old Upper House Hall that once housed the Upper House and now hosts conferences and meetings. Although the tour doesn't take you to the currently used lower house chamber, you can see the similar chamber of the former upper house. Surrounding you in all directions are elaborate gold decorations and beautiful stain glass. The definition of opulence and wealth. They spared no expense in putting together this room. Or if they did, it certainly didn’t look like it. The Upper Hall boasts panels made of Slavonian oak, gold-plated decorations, excellent acoustics and a gallery of several floors. The seats have been arranged in a horseshoe shape. A huge oak podium with space for the Speaker and the Member speaking emerges at the heels. Paintings of the coats of arms of Hungary's royal families can be seen on the main wall behind the podium, with murals depicting the historical role of the nobility on both sides. The splendid composition of tables and benches with seating for 453 Members is arranged in seven neat rows, stunning in magnificent brown, green and red:

    Having left the Upper House Hall, we enter the Upper House Lobby. The pyrogranite sculptures made of a special material considered to be an innovation in its day in the Zsolnay works in Pécs preserve the memory of old Hungarian national groups and crafts. In the media lobby of the Upper House, you can find beautiful wooden sculptures depicting different trades and professions to serve as a symbolic reminder to politicians about who they are there to represent. The crowning jewel of the room is the largest hand-knotted carpet in Europe, resplendent in turquoise beneath one's feet.

    From here we proceed to the geometric centre of the House of Parliament and the symbolic centre of Hungary, the Dome Hall. This is where the Hungarian Holy Crown and the Coronation Insignia, among the oldest coronation regalia in Europe, have been kept since 1 January 2000 and where they are protected 24 hours a day by the Crown Guard of the Hungarian Armed Forces. The building features an impressive interior dome reaching about 226 feet (69 meters) high. The Dome Hall itself, which is almost 27 metres tall, is complemented by an ambulatory at the lowest level. This is linked to a splendid, sixteen-rib vaulted ceiling with colourful stained glass windows interspersed between the ribs. At the base of the rib-like pillars, statues of Hungarian rulers occupy golden pedestals accompanied by their pages under canopies of gold:

    The stain glass windows are the work of the famous Hungarian artist, Miksa Róth:

    Hunters' Hall is one of the fascinating rooms surrounding the Dome Hall from the Danube side, stunning frescoes adorn its walls:

    The tour of the House of Parliament closes with a visit to the other pearl of the building, the Grand Stairway. The 96 stairs that dominate the space covered with red carpeting leads from the main entrance to the Dome Hall. Two large frescoes and one small one made by master painter Károly Lotz adorn the ceiling of the main stairway. However, the jewel in the crown is a collection of eight, four-tonne granite columns, of a type of which only 12 can be found in the entire world. The decorative stained glass windows that frame the space on both sides represent outstanding works of art from the workshop of Miksa Róth:

    Other notable attractions are the numbered cigar-holders that line the window sills outside the debate chambers. Smoking politicians left their cigars in the holders, when they went in to vote. When they returned they could easily find their cigars, if they remembered the number of the holder:

    The area in the immediate vicinity of the Hungarian Parliament contains numerous buildings and statues, which speak volumes about the city and its history.

    Kossuth Lajos tér: The square where the Hungarian Parliament stands was named after Lajos Kossuth, the leader of Hungary’s 1848-49 War of Independence against Hapsburg rule, a Hungarian lawyer, journalist, politician and Governor-President of Hungary in 1849. He was widely honored during his lifetime, including in the United States, as a freedom fighter and a bellwether of democracy in Europe. His memorial, as well as a memorial for the 1956 Hungarian Revolution can be seen in front of the Parliament building.

    Walking towards the center of the square, you encounter  “The Flame of Revolution,” a somewhat severe marble block with eternal flame, placed here in 1996 to mark the 40th anniversary of the 1956 Hungarian Uprising. Across the main part of the square a symbolic grave recalls a notorious massacre of Hungarian demonstrators, which occurred here during the uprising:

    To its right is the imposing building of the Museum of Ethnography (12 Kossuth Lajos tér;, originally constructed in the late 19th century as the Supreme Court. Its attractive, permanent exhibition covers the history of Hungarian folk art and customs. Opening hours:
    TUE - SUN: 10.00 - 18.00. Prices: Adult: HUF 1,000, Child & senior: HUF 500.

    Also on the north side of Parliament is a statue of Mihály Károlyi, the first president of independent Hungary for five months before he was driven into exile in 1919:

    In front of the Parliament building, more to the south is the equestrian statue of Francis II Rákóczi:

    The Statue of Attila Jozsef – popular, much-loved,  working-class Hungarian poet in the 1950s - has been moved to the embankment south of the Parliament square. A sad figure he was, as he showed signs of schizophrenia and withdrew into his poetry. At the age of 32 he was crushed by a starting train while crawling through the railway tracks. Whether this was an accident or a suicide nobody knows:

    It is 1.2 km, 15-20 minutes walk further north to Margit hid (Margaret Bridge). Head north on Kossuth Lajos tér, 170 m. Turn left to stay on Kossuth Lajos tér, 100 m. Continue onto Balassi Bálint utca, 170 m.
    Turn left onto Olimpia park, 60 m. Turn right to stay on Olimpia park,
    100 m. Easily recognizable by the giant Olympic rings at it's center. This is one of the most recently renovated of the city's parks (Spring 2014). It's clean, well-maintained, and good for family time.

    Turn right toward Jászai Mari tér, 10 m. Turn left onto Jászai Mari tér, 100 m. Turn right to stay on Jászai Mari tér, 75 m. Turn left to stay on Jászai Mari tér, 70 m. This is the northern terminus of tram nr. 2 at the Pest bridgehead of Margit híd. Jászai Mari tér is split in two by the foot of Margaret Bridge. The white building between the tram stop and the Danube is the office building of the Hungarian Parliament (once the headquarters of the Central Committee of the ruling Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party). There is an extensive bunker system directly underneath the area, built by the German army in WWII, a part of which has been transformed into an art gallery - look for the stairs in front of the adjacent McDonalds. To the north of the square is an elegant apartment block forming part of the Palatinus Houses , built in 1912 and facing the Danube. They contain some of the most expensive flats for sale or rent in Budapest.

    Turn left onto Szent István krt, 37 m. Continue onto Margit híd, 350 m
    Turn right to stay on Margit híd (Margaret Bridge) and the bridge is on your right. Connecting Pest and Buda across the Danube. It is the second northernmost and second oldest public bridge in Budapest. Margaret Bridge is the second permanent bridge in Budapest after Széchenyi Chain Bridge. This bridge leads up to Margaret Island (there is an embranchment from the middle pillar onto Margaret Island). It is 637.5 m in length and 25 m in width. It was built between 1872 and 1876 by French engineer Ernest Gouin's company Societé de Construction des Battignolles. The bridge structure rests on seven pillars altogether: one central pillar, two riverside pillars and four riverbed pillars. Their ornated statues were carved by French sculptor Thabard in 1874. A plaque is embedded at the southern side of the central pillar, commemorating the date of the construction, as well as the name of the designer. As the time had passed, the Margaret Bridge became the most congested bridge of the Hungarian capital. The horse tramway line dating from 1879 was replaced by a much heavier electric tramway line in 1894. In 1920, the demolished wood-blocks were removed and substituted by a much heavier stone pavement. All these reasons and the rapid growth of public traffic made some structural changes necessary. Between 1935 and 1937, the bridge was fortified and extended southwards, so that it became possible to place two more traffic lanes onto it. During World War II, on 4 November 1944 the three Pest side pillars were blown up in unexplained circumstances during the afternoon rush-hours, demanding numerous victims. Like all other bridges over the Danube in Budapest, the Margaret bridge was destroyed by the retreating Nazis in 1944. The bridge's two ends are: Jászai Mari tér (Pest) (northern end of Grand Boulevard) and Gyóni Géza tér and Germanus Gyula park in the Buda side. The complete length of the bridge amounts to 607 meters, it is 25 meters in width. It contains four traffic lanes (two in each direction), two tramway lines in the middle and one pavement each at both sides. Tram lines 4 and 6 cross the bridge, stopping also at the middle of the bridge, at the passage to Margaret Island. At the moment, Margaret Bridge is the worst worn bridge in Budapest. It is in urgent need of total overhaul, but the Budapest traffic would be seriously affected by the elimination of this important road. It could not be shut down until a new Northern bridge, the Megyeri Bridge was completed at the end of September 2008. According to current plans, reconstruction will be started in the first half of the year 2009. One of the most important aspects of the renovation will be the protection of the historical features of Margaret Bridge, among others the reinstallation of the sculptures that once decorated it:


    We don't walk along the bridge and DO NOT pass to the Buda part (see other blogs on Budapest). We stay in the Pest side of the Danube. We change direction and return southward. It is 1.3 km walk to Alkotmány utca. Head southeast on Margit híd back toward Jászai Mari tér, 350 m. Continue onto Szent István krt., 350 m. Turn right onto Hegedűs Gyula utca, 15 m. Continue onto Szemere utca, 500 m. Turn left onto Alkotmány utca, 45 m. 

    We are a bit east to the Parliament complex. Walk east to the end of this road - just not to miss the Hummus Bar, Alkotmány St 20, in this road, Hummus is known to be one of the oldest Middle Eastern foods. Made from chickpeas, sesame, lemon and garlic, it can be enjoyed as a dip, spread, or combined with meats and vegetables. Hummus is healthy and nutritious which is high in Vitamin C, iron and fiber and is perfect to be eaten during breakfast, lunch, dinner or simply as a snack:

    Retrace (a bit ) your steps. Head west on Alkotmány u. toward Vadász utca, 110 m. Turn left onto Vadász utca, 85 m. Turn right onto Kálmán Imre utca, 270 m. Turn left onto Honvéd utca, 120 m. Note the House of Hungarian Art Nouveau (Magyar Szecesszio Haza),  Honved utca 3. Opening times: MON - SAT: 10.00 - 17.00, Sunday is closed. Prices: Adult ticket: 2000 HUF, Senior, student: 1500 HUF. Free admission for ages 6 and under. The building is a stunning example of Hungarian Art Nouveau with its specially designed murals and stained glass. It is not quite a museum. It holds 3 stories of amazing Art Nouveau furniture, décor, etc. However, it is in no discernible order and generally lacks textual information about the pieces. It is more random collection of objects and furniture crammed into an splendid Art Nouveau house. Note: The café charming. You get to see plenty by just visiting the cafe, especially on the trip to the toilets...

    Head south on Honvéd utca toward Szabadság tér, 40 m. Slight right onto Szabadság tér another 40 m. Liberty Square (Szabadság tér) is a public square with a mix of business and residential: The United States Embassy in Hungary and the headquarters for the Hungarian National Bank are located in the square. The Bank of Hungary building is in the historicist style of architecture. Some buildings on the square are designed in the Art Nouveau style.

    There is also a monument for Soviet liberation of Hungary in World War II from Nazi German occupation. It was designed by Károly Antal and honors the soldiers of the Red Army who died in 1944-1945 during the liberation of Budapest. The monument consists of an obelisk with a crest showing the Communist hammer and sickle. At the bottom is a bas-relief of Soviet soldiers engaged in battle. The obelisk is crowned with a five-pointed Communist star. Many modern-day Hungarians are not terribly fond of this monument and would prefer to see it removed. Not only is it a reminder of the Soviet occupation, but to add insult to injury, the monument stands at the exact location of an early twentieth century monument that was erected in protest of the 1920 Treaty of Trianon, which resulted in the loss of almost three quarters of Hungary's territory:

    Two buildings were designed by Ignác Alpár. Both buildings, which stand opposite one another, were completed in 1905. The grandest of the two, the former Stock Exchange Building (Tőzsdepalota), graces the west side of Freedom Square. Its design is neoclassical in style with Secessionist decorations. This is particularly noticeable at the building's impressive entrance which is crowned with two temple-like towers. In 1948 the Communists closed down the stock exchange and the building became the (former) headquarters of the Hungarian Television:

    Ignác Alpár's other building, located at the square's eastern side is the Hungarian National Bank Building (Magyar Nemzetí Bank). The structure was built in the late classical style and includes elegant limestone reliefs by sculptor Károly Sennyei on the exterior, depicting various aspects of money, commerce and trade:

    Another interesting building is the U.S. Embassy Building (Chancery Building), completed in 1900 and housing U.S. diplomats since 1935. Designed by architects Aladár Kármán and Gyula Ullman. This building was first the home of the Hungarian Hall of Commerce:

    Behind the US Embassy, facing hold street, stands the Post Office Savings Bank Building. Built in Art Nouveau style, it was designed by a favorite architect of that period, Ödön Lechner. The facade is decorated with flower and bee motifs, symbolizing the bank's activity. The building's cornice is stunning as is the majolica (earthenware with a white tin glaze) roof ornamentation. The building is hard to photograph because the most extravagant element is the roof. You can see why Lechner picked up the label "Hungarian Gaudi:

    In the square there is a monument for Ronald Reagan. It was unveiled In 2011. The bronze statue, a work of the Hungarian sculptor Istvan Mate, was created to honor Reagan for his role in bringing an end to the Cold War:

    and a monument of Harry Hill Bandholtz. It is near the Hungarian National Bank and honoring the American general Harry Bandholtz, who in 1919 prevented Romanian troops from looting the Hungarian National Museum:

    The famous fountain of the Liberation square:

    A prison ("Újépület") that had previously occupied the space, was the site of the execution of Prime Minister Lajos Batthyány in 1849, following the Hungarian Revolution. The building was destroyed in 1897 and the square was built thereafter.

    The parliament from Szabadság tér:

  • Citywalk | Hungary
    Updated at Jan 13,2015

    From Danubius Hotel Gellért back to Pest centre:

    From the Szent Gellért tér (Gellért Square) we walk 900 m. to our next destination - Móricz Zsigmond körtér (Móricz Zsigmond  square). Head southeast on Szent Gellért tér, 35 m. Turn right to stay on Szent Gellért tér, 35 m. Continue onto Bartók Béla útca, 600 m. Turn left to stay on Bartók Béla útca, 15 m. Turn right to stay on Bartók Béla útca, 130 m.
    Turn left onto Móricz Zsigmond körtér, 55 m. Turn right to stay on Móricz Zsigmond körtér, 60 m. Móricz Zsigmond square is an extensive square located in Újbuda (New Buda), or Budapest's 11th District. Two main  boulevards converge onto this square: Béla Bartók utca and Villanyi utca. The square resides in 500 m. aerial distance to the river Danube. It is named after famous Hungarian writer Zsigmond Móricz in 1945. The square was a centre of fierce fighting in the 1956 Hungarian uprising. A new M4 metro line (Green line) had been opened from April 2014 with a station located at the square. The writer Móricz Zsigmond lived nearby at 50 Bartok Bela road from 1936 to 1937. The oldest building is #2, half of it destroyed at 1956. Note the attractive #1 building which was built around the end of the 1950s.

    Prince St. Imre - a relief sculpture in Móricz Zsigmond square and its iconic statue:

    The most iconic building in the square is the "Gomba" or mushroom. The traffic on the current Villányi út and on Karinthy Frigyes út started in 1928 and in 1937. The tram tracks were connected at the middle of the square, where the statue stands now. The Gomba was built in 1942, and originally functioned as the terminal of the suburban train. The connected tram tracks surrounding the monument were removed in 2002. The square is very busy: there are the terminals of trams no. 6 and 61 and of 8 bus lines, and another 5 tram and 4 bus lines cross it. THe old Gomba has been destroyed and the old new round shaped building,  the Gomba is alive again:

    From this square we head to the Parish Church of St. Imre (Church of Szentimreváros). Head northeast on Móricz Zsigmond körtér toward Karinthy Frigyes út, 60 m. Note: the nicest building in the Karinthy Frigyes road is No. 4, which was built by the National Bank in 1914. Turn left to stay on Móricz Zsigmond körtér, 55 m. Turn left to stay on Móricz Zsigmond körtér, 20 m. Turn left onto Bartók Béla út, 67 m. Slight right onto Móricz Zsigmond körtér, 63 m. Continue straight onto Villányi út, 350 m. The Church of Szentimreváros or the Parish Church of St. Imre, (Budai Ciszterci Szent Imre Templom), Villányi út 25 will be on your right. The city district was named Szentimreváros (City of St Imre) in 1934 on the 900th anniversary of St Imre’s death, the son of the first Hungarian King, St István. The Cistercian Order settled here in 1923, began to teach and to organize a new parish. Gyula Wälder designed a large-scale neo-Baroque building complex of which the high school was built as first, then the church was completed in 1938, but the construction of the monastery was prevented by the 2nd World War and the following era. Both the school and the parish church were nationalized in 1948 and 1951 respectively. The Cistercian Order has been restored in 1989 and got the church again. 

    The church has 3 naves. the main altar represents the scene when Saint Imre, Saint Stephen's son offers himself to Virgin Mary. The altar painting was created by István Takács while the gided neobaroque wooden statues (Saint Stephen, Saint Margareth and Saint Leslie) are Béla Markup's work. In fact, the church situated at the Feneketlen tó (Lake without a bed) (bottomless lake) and watching it from the other side of the lake (it's also illuminated in the evenings) it very scenic. The church stand north to the lake. To appreciate the whole panormic view go to the south side of the lake and watch the church, the Gellert Hill in far background and the Hemingway Cafe, 2 Kosztolanyi Dezso ter, on your left (east) (Good food but a bit pricey in Hungarian standards). At feneketlen to, which is bottomless lake in Hungarian, you can find a Christmas market during the December-January months. The lake entails urban legends mainly revolving around its name and origin. The bed of the lake used to be a marsh. Around the 1860s workers of the nearby brick factory used it to extract clay. Legend has it that they have dug so deep they have reached an underground water stream that burst out with such ferocity it washed away workers and their tools and filled the enormous pit. Even today there are a few who claim that the remains of the workers are still at the bottom:

    From the Hemingway Cafe-restaurant we head southwest on Frankfurt stny. toward Frankfurt stny., 67 m. Turn left to stay on Frankfurt stny., 44 m. Continue onto Kosztolányi Dezső tér, 56 m.

    Kosztolányi Dezső statue:

    Turn left onto Bocskai út, 400 m. Continue onto Október huszonharmadika u., 450 m (interesting street with wonderful mixture of old and new architecture in south of Budapest):

    Continue onto Irinyi József utca, 300 m. We pass through the Lágymányos Info / Science Park, Irinyi József u. 4-20. The whole complex of buildings (academic and commercial)  is at the Lágymányos part of Budapest, at the Buda side of Petőfi bridge. A world expo was to take place in Budapest in 1995. It never happened. On the Pest side a National Theatre and the Palace of Arts were built (see our blog of "southern Budapest") and in the Buda side  a new University's campus and Info Park - as a foundation for a new Hungarian Silicon Valley. Since 1999 leading international Hi-Tec companies conduct research projects in the park's buildings:

    If we continue direct east - we'll arrive to Petőfi híd or Petőfi Bridge.  Sándor Petőfi (1823 – 1849) was a Hungarian poet and liberal revolutionary. He is considered Hungary's national poet, and was one of the key figures of the Hungarian Revolution of 1848.  The bridge was built between 1933–1937, according to the plans of Hubert Pál Álgyay. The bridge was inaugurated in 1937 and was named after Regent Miklos Horthy. In 1945 it was blown up during the siege of Budapest  and was rebuilt in 1952 and then received the name of Petőfi. It is 514 m in length (along with the sections leading up) and 25.6 m in width and rebuilt after the WW2. It is the second southernmost public bridge in Budapest. Petofi Bridge is situated southwards from Liberty Bridge. Its end in Buda is the Goldmann György tér (next to the campuses of the Budapest University of Technology and Economics, next to the Lágymányos campuses with their partying locations):

    The view of the Pest side from Petőfi Bridge:

    Continue, on the Buda side, northward along the Danube - through Egry József utca and Nina és Valdemar Langlet rakp or along Műegyetem rkp. After 1.3 km (approx. 20-25 minutes) walk - you'll see on your left the Budapest Technical University (Budapesti Műszaki Egyetem). It is located along the Danube bank between Liberty Bridge and Rákóczi Bridge (formerly called Lágymányosi Bridge). The Budapest University of Technology and Economics (BME) is commonly known as the Technical University. The largest central building, the "K" building was built in 1909 based on Hauszmann Alajos plans:

    BME main entrance of the four allegorical female figures:

    The BME interiors:

    The view of the Pest side from the BME entrance:

    A 400 m. further walk to the north brings us, back, to Szent Gellért tér. We turn right (east) to the Liberty bridge (Szabadság híd).

    We cross the Danube over this bridge. Look back to the west side, to the Buda side and DO NOT MISS the Danubius Hotel Gellért under the evening sun rays:

    We are, now, in Pest.  The late afternoon or early evening hours are the best time, in a sunny day, to have a marvelous look at the grandiose  Great Market Hall or Central Market Hall ("Nagycsarnok"). (see our blog "A rainy day in South of Budapest"):

    It is 1.1 km. walk from the Central Market in Fővám tér, via Váci utca to Kristóf tér. From the Grand Market head southwest on Vámház krt, 30 m.
    Turn right onto Fővám tér, 70 m. Continue onto Váci utca, 700 m. Váci utca (Váci street) is one of the main pedestrian thoroughfares and perhaps the most famous street of central Budapest. The street became a main thoroughfare of Pest in the 18th century and you'll find beautiful mansions from this era. Until the 1880-ies the main Promenade of Pest (Korzó) was the walkway lining the Danube between Eötvös Square and the Vigadó Square. By the turn of the 19th-20th centuries Váci utca took over the role of shopping street from Király utca, and the role of promenade fro the Korzó on the Danube embankment. Most of the protected buildings date from this period. There is a large number of restaurants and shops catering primarily to the tourist market. All the fashion "big names" are represented in this street:  ESPRIT, H&M, Lacoste, Mango, Zara  and many others. See our special blog of "Váci utca":

    Turn right at Piarista utca, 10 m. Turn left onto Váci utca, 270 m and the  street opens to Kristóf tér. The Square is one of the smallest squares in Budapest. The most distinctive element is the fishmonger girl statue, which was originally set up in 1862.

    150 m. further north is Vörösmarty tér. At the centre of the Vörösmarty square facing west is a statue of poet Mihály Vörösmarty. Behind the monument is a fenced park and a fountain flanked by stone lions. At the north end of the square is the famous Café Gerbeaud. The southern terminus of the Budapest Metro's venerable yellow line (M1) is situated here. The British Embassy is also located at the square:

    Head east on Kristóf tér toward Bécsi utca, 70 m. Continue onto Fehér Hajó utca, 140 m. Turn left onto Sütő utca, 60 m. Slight left and you arrive, finally, to our starting point onto Deák Ferenc tér.

  • Citywalk
    Updated at Dec 29,2014

    Circular tour in Buda Castle Hill:

    Tip 1: Buda Castle Itinerary.

    Tip 2: Matthias Church (Mátyás templom).

    Tip 3: The Fishermen’s Bastion.

    Tip 4: Ruszwurm Coffee House.

    Tip 5: Royal Palace (Királyi Palota) including the museums, statues and fountains around.

    Attractions: Upper station of the Funicular (Budavari Siklo), Szent György tér, Sándor Palace (Sándor Palota), National Dance Theatre (Várszinház). Dísz tér, Tárnok utca, Matthias Church (Mátyás templom), Fishermen’s Bastion (Halászbástya), Szentháromság tér (Holy Trinity Square), Ruszwurm Café, Statue of Hussar general András Hadik, Hilton Hotel, Hess András tér, Táncsics Mihály utca, Vienna Gate (Bécsi Kapu), Mary Magdalene Tower, Országház utca, Dárda utca, Úri utca, Museum of Military History (Hadtörténeti múzeum), Tóth Árpád sétány, Royal Palace (Királyi Palota), Matthias's Well or Fountain, Statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy, The National Gallery (Nemzeti Galéria), The Budapest History Museum, National Széchényi Library, the Habsburg Gate, Fountain of the Fishing Children, Sculpture of a Turul bird, Upper station of the Funicular (Budavari Siklo).

    Distance: 5-6 km.

    Duration: 1 busy day.

    Best time: A sunny day.Worst Time: Monday, when museums are closed.

    Getting to Castle HillAs private cars are not allowed to enter the zone, your only options remain public transport, walking or taxi.

    • Take the Funicular (Budavári Sikló) from Buda-side Chain Bridge or Adam Clark square (HUF 900/1500 one way/return, children HUF 550/1000). It climbs to the Fisherman's Bastion (Halászbástya). The track is almost 100 m long. Operating hours: 7.30-22.00 every day. the cable car runs constantly during peak time, and at max 10-minute intervals during less busy periods. Quite pricey.
    • Take the public bus, called Várbusz (Castle bus: no. 16 and 16A) from Széll Kálmán tér (formerly Moszkva tér).

    • Walk through the many paths leading up to the Funicular stop on the Castle Hill. Walking from Pest is likely to be faster than public transport or taxi on peak hours. The walk itinerary from Deák Ferenc tér (Pest) Metro station (1.3 km. 25 minutes including some climbs):  From Deák Ferenc tér Head north on Deák Ferenc tér toward Erzsébet tér, 15 m. Turn left onto Erzsébet tér, 7 m. Turn right toward József Attila utca, 160 m. Turn right toward József Attila utca, 50 m. Turn left onto József Attila utca, 250 m. Continue onto Eötvös tér, 65 m. Turn right to stay on Eötvös tér, 110 m. Slight left onto Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain bridge), 500 m. At the roundabout, take the 2nd exit onto Clark Ádám tér, 120 m.
      Turn left onto Sikló utca, 120 m. Turn right, 80 m. Turn left,
      160 m. Turn right, 160 m. You've arrived to the Szent György tér near (west to) the the upper station of the Funicular (Budavari Siklo).
    • Another route of walk from Clark Ádám tér: Turn right to Hunyadi János útca. Climb this road northward - until you see a path (Hunyadi László lépcső - in the intersection with Apor Péter utca, on your right) and turn left, climbing along this alley to the Castle Hill. I recommend you to take the Royal Steps (Király Lepcsõ) at Ádám Clark square, beside the funicular. You will have the Bastion with all its splendor above you .The views from Pest getting better with every step you go up are just amazing.

    Buda Castle from Hunyadi János útca and Hunyadi László lépcső:

    Getting around: Buda Castle is small enough to discover it on foot. However, if you get tired, you can jump on bus 16 (formerly known as Várbusz) which has several stops inside the Castle District. Horse carriages are also waiting for taking you on a tour.

    Buda Castle History: First inhabitants moved up here in the 13th century after the devastating Mongol attacks. The Castle District's Golden Age started when the Royal Court moved here. During the 15th century, under the rule of King Matthias, Buda became one of Europe’s most influential cities. The Turks invaded the Castle Hill in 1541 and ruled it until 1686 when the Austrian Habsburgs and their allied armies took back the hill. The siege left Castle District in ruins. After the Turks the Habsburgs moved here. Reconstructions began immediately, following the old street layout. The Castle became a government district. The current elegant Baroque appearance was formed by the mid 18th century. The battles in 1944-45 ruined the place again. Reconstructions after the war rebuilt the District: the buildings by the Habsburgs were reconstructed, the street pattern of the medieval city has been kept and much of the architectural features have been restored. People still live in Buda castle environs. Cars are banned from the area: only people who live or work there, guests of the Hilton Hotel, taxis and the Várbusz (buses 16 and 16A) have permission to drive up.

    Our itinerary in Buda Castle area: From the upper station of the Funicular (Budavári Sikló) (we'll browse the statues around in the end of our route - when we'll return to the funicular station)

    walk WEST to Szinház utca. Walk along Szinház utca, the first street on the right facing Szent György tér as you exit the Funicular. The St George's Square was notable place in the city. In 1457 the Hungarian King Ladislaus V beheaded  László Hunyadi, brother of King Matthias in this square. In 1514 Thomas Bakócz Archbishop of Esztergom read the  the papal letter to the public, which called for a crusade; this later became the Dózsa George's parasztfelkeléssé. In most of the space excavations currently underway. Great views over to the east (Pest) and west (Taban).

    The first building to your right will be Sándor Palace (Sándor Palota), the President's Office. Sándor Palace is a fine example of Classicist architecture. It was built in 1806 and converted to the Prime Minister's office in 1867. At the end of World War II, the building was severely damaged and it was in ruins until 2000, when it was decided to re-establish the Prime Minister's office in its place. In 2002, based on a Parliament ruling it became the President's Office:

    Next to it stands the National Dance Theatre (Várszinház). The National Dance Theatre was originally built as a baroque style church in 1736 and was later converted into a theatre:

     Szinház utca ends at Dísz tér (Parade Square). Known as the Pasha's square, St. George's square and since the 19th century, as Parade square, it was the centre of the castle district during the Middle Ages. It is surrounded by Baroque and Neo-classical buildings, including the Post Office with the ochre façade (see below). You will see there a statue of a hussar in the uniform of the period of Marie-Thérèse and the honvédi statue (soldier from the Hungarian army), which commemorates the uprising of the Hungarians against the Habsbourgs in 1848-1849. In Disz ter the following monuments can be seen: former Ministry of Defence, which looks better like a huge Emental cheese because of the World War II  bullet holes. On the left side of the square if the former Ministry is behind you the one of the oldest post offices can be found next to a pretty old pharmacy, where the interior is also representing its unique age (more than 300 years) but of course the medicines were always updated:

    The Post Office building today, a former pharmacy site:

    Monument to the Independence War in Dísz tér:

    Internal courtyard in Dísz tér:

    From Dísz tér continue your walk on Tárnok utca to the Holy Trinity Column, erected in 1713 (see below). Tárnok utca is the street to your left as you leave Dísz tér: a busy trading area in the Middle Ages (German merchants). The Treasurer 's Street, is edged with beautiful houses with painted façades and Baroque decorative touches:

    Note the façade of no. 14 (Tarnok café or Tarnok Kavehaz): this house dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and was restore during 1950s. Opening hours: MON - FRI: 10.00 - 23.00:

    In the end of Tárnok utca is the Szentháromság tér. To the right of the square (east side) is the over 700-year old Matthias Church (see Tip 2), the scene of several coronations, including that of Charles IV in 1916, the last Habsburg king.

    Then head over to Fishermen's Bastion (see Tip 3) for some of the best views of the city. There is free access to the lower part of Fishermen's Bastion, however you will have to pay for the view from its towers.

    Head WEST to the Szentháromság tér (Holy Trinity Square): The centre of Budapest Castle District is at Szentháromság tér (Holy Trinity Square). The Baroque-style Trinity statue, in the middle of the square, commemorates the victims of the 1691 plague epidemic. The sculpture at the top represents the Holy Trinity. It sits on a sturdy pillar decorated with statues of little angels and - below - large statues of saints. The column rests on a large pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs and the Hungarian crest:

    Here stands the Old Town Hall of Buda (Régi Budai Városháza), which lost its original function when Buda, Pest and Óbuda were united in 1873: a white Baroque building that was constructed in the early eighteenth century according to plans by the Italian architect Venerio Ceresola. You may also want to visit the House of Hungarian Wines (Magyar Borok Háza), also located on the square (Town Hall cellar). There are over 500 wines on display in the cellar from the different wine regions in Hungary. The tasting fee includes a guided tour through the cellars as well as some snacks to accompany the wine tasting. The wines exhibited here are also available for sale. The statue of Athena, the town's guardian, is set in a niche:

    Antique's shop in Szentháromság tér:

    If you need a coffee break to keep you going, or just want to get a taste on Budapest's coffee culture, - head south on Szentháromság tér toward Szentháromság utca, 30 m. Turn right onto Szentháromság utca, The Ruszwurm Café (Tip 4), Szentháromság utca 7 is on your right.

    Nearby is the statue of Hussar general András Hadik (Szentháromság utca and Úri utca crossing), a favorite of Empress Maria Theresia is well known to local students. The statue, designed by György Vastagh Jr. was presented to the public in 1937. The general is on horseback; take a close look at the horse's testicles. They are shiny yellow, unlike the patina on the rest of the statue. Engineering students have for years polished the horse testicles on the morning of difficult exams, supposedly for luck:

    Locate the Hilton Hotel, Hess András tér 1-3. just north of Szentháromság tér and Matthias Church and see the remains of a former Dominican cloister, now part of the hotel. Before the construction could be started, the archaeological excavations took 4 years to complete. The hotel was opened in 1977, and its structure incorporates a 13th century Dominican cloister and a 17th century Jesuit college, which makes up the facade and the main entrance of the hotel, combined with modern glass elements. The nave of the former church now gives home to the Dominican Courtyard, where numerous theatre performances are organized from spring until autumn:

    Fortuna Passage, a narrow alley opposite the Hilton Hotel:

    Hess András tér: Hess András tér adjoins Szentháromság tér to north. This square is named after the first printer to set up here in 1483. He published Buda's chronicles, the first book to be written in Hungarian. The statue in the centre is Pope Innocent XI (work of J Damko (1936) who played a very important role during the war against the Turks.

    The house at No. 3 Hess András tér was rebuilt in the early eighteenth century on thirteenth-century foundations; in 1760 it housed the Red Hedgehog (Vörös Sün) Inn, as can still be seen on the carved stone inn-sign above the gate. It was here that in the eighteenth century the first theatrical performances in Buda were held.

    The house at No. 4. facing the hotel was formed by joining together the remains of three fourteenth-century houses. Note the beautiful yellow façade of the building that houses the Fortuna restaurant:

    Walk through Hess András tér to Táncsics Mihály utca (the eastern side of the square). Walk along this street  (Institute for Musicology, Táncsics Mihály utca 7 is on your left) until its end. This street, lined with fine houses with colorful façades in the Baroque or Neo-classical style, bears the name of a journalist. Mihály Táncsics (1799-1884) was a hero of the struggle for national independence.In the Middle Ages, it was the main street in the Jewish Quarter in Buda:

    Király Restaurant, Táncsics Mihály utca 25:

    Táncsics Mihály utca ends at Vienna Gate (Bécsi Kapu), the northern gate of the Castle Hill. In the Middle Ages Bécsi kapu tér was called the 'Saturday Market'. The Vienna Gate is informally known as the gate used to leave the old city in route to Vienna. The present gate was rebuilt in 1936 to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the liberation of Buda. This event is described on a plaque along the wall, just inside the gate. You can walk up to the top of the gate where you get a beautiful view of the Buda Hills and for a very unique and not often seen angle onto the parliament building. From here it takes only a few minutes to get to busy Széll Kálmán tér:

    The neo-Romanesque building towering above  houses the National Archives. Next to the gate is Vienna Gate Square (Bécsi kapu ter) and the National Archive Building - a huge building with neo-Romanesque architecture, as well as the Lutheran Church. The National Archives holds documents which go back as far as 1526:

    You'll find some charming houses around Vienna Gate too (No.-s 5-7). The most famous is the house at No. 7. It was built on the site of a medieval house. A priest and teacher, who lived here, rebuilt it in 1807. Beautiful grilles decorate the windows and the door of a staircase in the gateway. In the first half of the 20th century Baron Lajos Hatvany lived here, a patron of arts. In 1935 and 1936 Thomas Mann was his guest in this house for three times:

    Lutheran Church on Bécsi kapu tér:

    From the National Archive Building head southwest on Nándor utca. toward Országház utca, 70 m. Turn left onto Országház utca, 45 m. Turn right onto Kapisztrán tér, 45 m. The Mary Magdalene Tower  will be on the right. Mary Magdalene Tower (Mária Magdolna torony), on the corner of Országház utca and Kapisztrán tér is the part of a 13th-century Franciscan church used by Hungarian speakers. Under Turkish rule, this was the only church allowed to remain Christian: the Turks converted all the other churches into mosques. Since this was the only Christian church, both Catholics and Protestants used it. In the end, the Turks converted it into a mosque as well. The chancel was destroyed in World War II and has not been rebuilt except for one stone window, as a memento. Only its 15th century tower survived the bombings:

    From Maria Magdalena Tower start walking southward on Országház utca. This "street of the Parliament" has borne its current name since 1790.Note, along this road, several marvellous, historic houses:

    Országház utca 22:

    At that date this parliament used to meet in a former convent of the Claris nuns located at No. 28, today the National Science Academy.

    Be sure to check out the houses located at 18, 20 and 22 Országház utca, as they date back to the 14th century:

    Turn right on Dárda utca

    and turn left on Úri utca to continue your walk. The longest street in the quarter of the castle. I think that this is the most beautiful stret in the Castle hill. You must walk along it to admire the façades of most of its Baroque houses. All these beautiful homes which appear one after another grant the street a certain residential look. Everything transmits calm and comfort:

    Úri utca 29:

    Úri utca 27:

    Úri utca 31:

    Úri utca 34:

    Úri utca 35:

    If you are interested in the labyrinth system situated in the caves and cellars beneath Castle Hill visit the Labyrinth of Buda Castle at Úri utca 9 or make a detour to Lovas út. The underground labyrinth served as a large shelter and hospital during World War II, but the Turks also used it back in the 16th century. Beneath Budapest's Castle Hill stretches a labyrinth of caves, tunnels and cellars. Opening hours: Every day: 10.00 - 19.00. Website:
    Email address: It's about 10 km in length and a section of about 1.5 km is open to visitors. Part of the labyrinth was formed naturally; the other parts were excavated mostly in the Middle Ages for protection purposes. During World War II thousands lived through the siege down there. Opening hours: 10.00-19.00 every day. Two entrances: Úri utca 9., two minutes walk from Szentháromság tér, or: Lovas út 4/A (accessible with wheel chair). The temperature in the Labyrinth is around 14-15 Celsius and humidity is 90% so bring a coat or sweater with you. Night Tours with Lanterns - start at 18.00. Prices: adult: 2 000 HUF, (25% discount with Budapest Card), students/pensioners/teachers: 1 500 HUF, children up to 12 years of age: 600 HUF, guided tours (by appointment): 5 500 HUF. admission is free for people with disabilities:

    The building at 31 Úri utca has a Gothic façade that dates back to the 15th century.

    Take (RIGHT, SOUTH) to Nőegylet utca and continue your walk RIGHT (NORTH-WEST) on Tóth Árpád sétány. We head, first to the Military History Museum and we will trace back south-east along most of Tóth Árpád sétány - heading to the Royal palace. I heartily recommend walking along Tóth Árpád sétány on both directions. It deserves more than a prompt glance. In case you insist upon giving up this museum - turn left from Nőegylet utca to Tóth Árpád sétány. The entrance of the museum (flanked by cannons) is situated on the Tóth Árpád promenade, which offers wide vistas. The Museum of Military History is on the northwest side of the Tóth Árpád promenade. You can't miss noticing the Museum of Military History (Hadtörténeti múzeum), Kapisztrán tér 2-4. Besides a large collection of flags, military uniforms, and other military memorabilia, it has a collection of items from Hungary's involvement in various wars. The Hadtörténeti Múzeum includes numerous artifacts from the period of 1848 to the modern day, but as the city suffered greatly during the Second World War the building was heavily damaged and much of the original collection was lost. However, the museum recovered and has amassed an impressive collection, which includes many hands-on displays for children. Admission is free. Opening hours: Summer (APR 1 - SEP 30):  TUE - SUN: 10.00 - 18.00.  Winter (OCT 1 - MAR 31)  TUE - SUN: 10.00 - 16.00:

    In any case we continue along Tóth Árpád sétány in the south-east direction. The street, named after the Hungarian poet Arpad Toth. This is a lovely pedestrian promenade lined with chestnut trees that runs down from the one-some-mile craggy plateau where the Castle District perches. This is a favorite venue among locals (and some tourists, too) who sit on the benches or stroll and take in the views of Buda Hills. The Bástya sétány (Bastion promenade) was a promenade in the Castle Quarter. It ran behind the Western, Northern and partly the Eastern wall of the Castle. When defense importance of the Castle declined, the western part was afforested, then opened for the public in 1936 for the 250th anniversary of Buda’s Recapture. World War II caused major damages in the promenade, so it was rebuilt between 1966-1970 and it was divided to two sections. The Tóth Árpád sétány is the  western part of the promenade. This promenade acts as a gathering place for locals and visitors who appreciate the beautiful architecture, trees, benches, fountains, and an incredible vista. The street is a whole greater than the sum of its parts - but its parts are impressive: the architecture is historic and harmonious; mature trees make a shady canopy; a wide walkway follows along a spectacular view; benches line the street, well-placed to allow a choice or shade or sun, and an appreciation of the view. In addition to the trees, historic character and amenities, this street is beautifully maintained and embellished with additional details such as historic lamp posts and a fountain. This is a  wonderful promenade, on one hand which overlooks the hills on the Buda side of town, on the other hand, the picturesque houses. WHAT A GEM !!!

    The Tóth Árpád sétány slights left (east) at its end and ends up at Dísz tér. We returned, gain, to Dísz tér. From Dísz tér you can already see the buildings of the Royal Palace. Both Szinház utca or Szent György utca will take you to the palace. Since, we walked through Szinház utca, at the beginning of our daily route - we'll opt and take, now, the Szent György utca to the Royal Palace. In most of the road's space excavations currently underway:

    We return from the Royal palace complex to our final/first stop, today, the Castle Funicular station. We exit the Royal Palace site through its northern exit - the Habsburg Gate of the palace: Most visitors enter Buda Castle from St. George Square to the north, where the Sikló funicular connects Castle Hill with the Chain Bridge and Pest. An ornamental gate from the early twentieth century separates the square from the former royal domain and palace:


    If you walk up the so-called Habsburg steps and pass through the gate - you'll see  a small terrace decorated with the beautiful romantic fountain of the Fishing Children (Halászó fiú / Senyei Károly). The fountain was created in 1912 by Károly Senyey and shows children grasping a huge fish:

    The bronze sculpture of a Turul bird is just outside the cable car station, right near the gate, is not, as you might think, an eagle, but the mythical Turul bird (which is believed to be a kind of falcon). This bird is a part of the story of how the Magyars settled the Hungarian homeland. This bird appeared in a dream to the wife of the Magyar leader Ügyek and told her that she would be the founding mother of a new nation.

  • Citywalk
    Updated at Apr 6,2015

    One day Walk in Batthyány tér and Obuda:

    Attractions: Batthyány tér, Szent Anna-templom (Church of Saint Anne), Fő utca, Szilágyi Dezső tér, Bem József tér, Margit House, Leó úti Synagogue, Zsigmond tér, Bécsi út, Lajos utca, Aquincumi military amphitheater, Flórián tér, St. Peter and Paul Parish Church, Óbudai zsinagóga, Arpad Bridge, Szentlélek tér, Zichy palace, Victor Vasarely Museum, (Obuda Museum), Fő tér,

    Start: Batthyány tér Metro (RED M2 line) station. It is located under Batthyány Square in Buda, near the Danube river. Next to the station, there is the southern terminus of the Szentendre HÉV suburban railway. The station has two tram connections, to 19 and 41. Buses connections: Bus: 11, 17, 39, 86, 111, 160, 260, 260A.

    End: Fő tér

    Duration: 1 day. Distance: 12-13 km. Note: long-distance walk.

    Introduction: Óbuda (Old Buda) (Ó means 'ancient' in Hungarian) is in the  III. disrtrict of Budapes. Óbuda is the oldest part of Buda. It played an important role in Budapest's history from the Roman Era till the modern days. Although at first glance Óbuda seems to be a plain residential area with blocks erected in the communist regime - the centre has numerous sights and a lovely, quaint atmosphere that make it like a small rural town or even a village inside the city. For history lovers the district is well-preserved with remains from the Roman period to Baroque ornate mansions. Hungarians arrived after 900 and it served as an important settlement of major tribal leaders, later kings. Béla IV of Hungary built a new capital after the 1241-1242 Mongol invasion in Buda, somewhat south of Óbuda. On 1 January 1873 it was united with Buda and Pest to form Budapest. The area of Óbuda was inhabited in as early as the stone age. The Romans formed the capital of their Pannonia province - bordered by the river Danube - Aquincum in AD 106. Aquincum, garrison and civilian town, means "abundant in water" indicating that the Romans discovered and appreciated the area's most important natural treasure the thermal springs.

    Batthyány Square (Batthyány tér) is a town square in the Buda side of the Danube directly opposite the Hungarian Parliament Building (Pest side). It is named after Lajos Batthyány, the first Prime Minister of Hungary, and a statue for him was erected in 2008. The HÉV suburban railway originates from the square, connecting Batthyány Square with Szentendre (see "Szentendre" blog).

    The square is best known for its market hall - built between 1900 and 1902, which houses a modern supermarket and a small café on the second floor with views of the Parliament Building. Good thing that the market is open on Sundays. It's been recently renovated:

    Batthyány Square is also noted for the Szent Anna-templom (Church of Saint Anne), a Roman Catholic church built by the Jesuits between 1740 and 1762, and one of Budapest's most beautiful Baroque buildings. The beautiful façade is dominated by two symmetric towers and between them the symbol of Holy Trinity and two angels. In the centre of the facade there is the statue of Szent Anna and the coat of arms of Budapest. The interior is in Baroque style with beautiful ceiling frescoes, the one over the high altar shows Holy Trinity and dates from 1771 while the central one is from early 20th century (paintings made by Pal C. Molnar and Bela Kontuly in the 1938). Frequent concerts, recitals and other musical events held here in the evenings. The church has a very fine pipe organ which is often used for recitals:

    Another noteworthy building in the square is the former 'White Cross Inn' (Batthyány tér 4), which was established in 1766 when two older buildings were rebuilt in Rococo style. Habsburg king Joseph II stayed here twice when visiting Buda in 1783 and 1784. Nowadays, it is a beautiful Baroque building with Rococco ornamentation at the lower level, marred somewhat by a neon "Casanova" sign. According to legend, the serial seducer Giovanni Jacopo Casanova once stayed there when he came to Buda to take the water cure after many years languishing in prison.

    On Batthyány tér the big red building on the north side was once a Franciscan Monastery, then a hospital run by nuns. It was built in the 18th century. Outside it is a statue of Ferenc Kölcsey created in 1939 by the sculptor Ede Kallós. Kölcsey (1790-1838) wrote the Himnusz, the Hungarian national anthem:

    This square is right on the river (but look to the left...) and, like most of this city, boasts some pretty spectacular scenery. You can get a good view of the Hungarian Parliament Building and the Chain Bridge from the riverbank.

    From Batthyány tér we head south, 55 m. Turn right to stay on Batthyány tér, 70 m. Then, turn left for 12 m. Continue onto Fő utca, 180 m. (passing Markovits Iván utca and Coyote Cafe' on your right) (see Tip below). The historic Fő utca (Main Street) crosses the square, and connects it to the lower end of the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular to the Buda end of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. It continues further north until the Bem József tér. It dates from Roman times. It is bustling with commerce from as early as the 18th century. The area is called Watertown; following the 1686 siege of Buda, mostly German merchants and other privileged citizens moved here, building Baroque houses and courtyards.

    Fő utca is lying parallel with the Danube. As we said before, walking along this road, from north to south, the huge Parliament building on the Pest bank will appear from time to time between blocks of buildings. 

    Continue straight onto Szilágyi Dezső tér, 95 m. Turn left to stay on Szilágyi Dezső tér, 60 m. Opposite stands the red-brick neo-Gothic Calvinist church whose roof is adorned with ceramic Zsolnay tiles from the Pécs factory. The church was designed and built in 1893-96 by Sámuel Pecz, who created the Main Market Hall, also with Zsolnay tiles. The building suffered bomb damage in the Second World War and was restored in the 1980s. The church is closed most of the time:

    Outside the church on the river bank is a memorial to the March 15, 1848 revolution with the message 'Hazádnak rendületlenül' (steadfastly for your homeland):

    There is a tiny statue by Béla Berán of Pecz dressed in medieval master builder’s clothes on a drinking fountain in the tiny park surrounding the church:

    From Szilágyi Dezső tér - we change our direction and head to the north consuming, from now, quite a lot of kilometres of walk. We' ll strat in walking 950 m. (15-20 minutes) from Szilágyi Dezső tér to Bem József tér retracing our steps along Fő utca. Head north on Szilágyi Dezső tér toward Székely utca, 45 m. Continue onto Fő utca, 180 m. Continue onto Batthyány tér, 130 m. Continue onto Fő utca, 170 m. Continue straight onto Nagy Imre tér, 65 m. In Nagy Imre tér is located the former Communist Military Court of Justice on its northern side. Imre Nagy was  sentenced to death here in 1958 for his prime role in the 1956 revolt. Here was also the site of the cruel prison , where many other victims of the Communist regime in Hungary were imprisoned and tortured.

    Continue onto Fő utca, 300 m. Turn right onto Bem József tér, 35 m.  József Bem (1794 – 1850) was a Polish general and a national hero of Poland and Hungary. Bem fought outside Poland's borders for the future of Poland. This square was the centre for the meetings during the Hungarian uprising of October 1956 against the Soviet invaders. The square was also a centre of 200,000 Hungarian students parade - protesting against Soviet rule in 1956. The statue in the square is of József Bem:

    Continue northward onto Frankel Leó útca. In the intersection of Margit Krt. and Continue onto Frankel Leó út stands the Margit Haz (house):

    The Frankel Leó road is quite long and it is 1.4 km. walk northward until we arrive to the Jewish Synagogue (Frankel Leó úti zsinagóga). The beautiful synagogue, in No. 49,  wedged between apartment buildings, was built in neo-Gothic style. It was constructed by Sandor Fellner. and its inaguration was in year1888. The synagogue was empty and used as a stable during the WW2:

    350 m. further and Frankel Leó road ends in Zsigmond tér:

    A stone relief on a house in Zsigmond tér:

    We are in Obuda. Getting to Óbuda from Downtown Budapest:

    • By Suburban Railway H5 from Batthyány Square (M2 red, metro), get off at Szentlélek tér.
    • Take tram 1 and get off at Flórián tér stop.
    • Take M3, blue metro, get off at Árpád híd station, from there take tram 1.

    We take the western wing of Zsigmond tér and continue northward along Bécsi út. This street is still an important route, III. district's main thoroughfares. There are several famous buildings along Bécsi út (Újlaki Catholic Church, the People's Freedom Headquarters in St. Margaret's Hospital, an Óbuda University campus, Euro Center plaza, Óbuda cemetery next to the Jewish cemetery of Óbuda, and many other buildings, office buildings). DO NOT MISS THE SPECIAL ROOFS of many houses along this street:

    We walk, now, approx. 1 km NORTHWARD along Bécsi út ( and its parallel road Lajos utca). Head north on Bécsi út toward Cserfa utca, 350 m.
    Turn right onto Szépvölgyi út, 70 m. Turn left onto Kolosy tér, 77 m. The surrounding area is a shopping mall, a bunch of office buildings, good patisserie, and, moreover, it is the city's main sushi eateries. Continue onto Lajos utca, 400 m. Turn left to stay on Lajos utca, 45 m. Beyond the intersection with Nagyszombat utca - yo see the Aquincumi military amphitheater. A military amphitheater located south of former Roman military camp. It’s an interesting fact that this amphitheatre had an arena that was larger than the arena of the Colosseum in Rome (89,6 x 66,1 metres). The amphitheater was built during the reign of emperor Antoninus Pius. The construction work was performed by the Legio II Adiutrix technical corps. Imagine: the walls were supported by huge stone pillars.  Free  entrance. Aquincum Military Amphitheatre is the greater of two amphitheatres in Budapest, Hungary. (The other being the Aquincum Civil Amphitheatre,. located in further north in Obuda.). The Aquincum Museum is also 3.5 km. further north. To see the Aquinicum Museum - see our suggestion below to take a bus from Flórián tér:

    It is another 1.1. km. walk to Flórián tér and more Obuda attractions. Head north on Pacsirtamező utca. toward Viador utca, 400 m. Slight right to stay on Pacsirtamező utca, 500 m. Turn right onto Flórián tér, 50 m. In  Flórián tér ruins of a Roman military camp were discovered. The vsquare is built on the nucleus of this camp. The well preserved ruins of a bath complex called Thermae Maiores are on the north side of the square on grassy grounds. A small museum provides information about the baths and medicine in Roman times is seen in the Flórian tér underpass. The square itself is noisy and busy:

    Side trip to the Aquinicum Museum, Budapesti Történeti Múzeum - Aquincumi Múzeuma, Szentendrei street 135: From Flórián tér walk About 3 min , 230 m north-west to Szentlélek tér. Take Bus134 towards Békásmegyer, Újmegyeri tér. Drop off at the 5th stop, Záhony utca and walk About 2 min ,,140 m to the Budapesti Történeti Múzeum - Aquincumi Múzeuma,
    Záhony utca 4. The Aquincum Museum is definitely an interesting site to visit. The museum houses amazing archeological artifacts from the ancient Roman city of Aquinicum. You can also see the actual site of excavation outdoors. English translations could be improved. Prices: 1600 HUF. Opening hours : 10.00  - 16.00. Time Required : 1 - 2 hours.

    From Flórián tér move eastward crossing the road beneath Árpád híd (Árpád bridge) will take you to the 18th century Baroque style St. Peter and Paul Parish Church, Lajos utca 168. From lórián tér head south on Polgár utca. toward Tavasz utca, 10 m. Turn left onto Tavasz utca, 170 m
    Slight right at Szentlélek tér, 95 m. Turn right toward Lajos utca. Take the stairs, 60 m. Turn left toward Lajos utca. Take the stairs, 90 m. Turn left onto Lajos utca, 130 m. Turn left onto Zichy utca, 35 m. Turn right onto Lajos utca. The yellow-colored church will be on your right. After the Roman era the Hungarian tribes arrived in the 9th century and Óbuda started to flourish once again. A castle and several churches were built on top of the Roman ruins. The first church, named after St. Peter, was built here in 1015. At the time Óbuda was significantly more developed than Buda, which only became popular in the wake of the Mongol invasion in the 13th century, when King Bela IV moved his royal seat to higher ground. Dominating the easternmost side of III Flórián tér is the yellow Baroque Óbuda Parish Church, which was built in 1749 and dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul. There’s a lovely rococo pulpit inside. Architect: János György Paur. The first church was built here in 1015. This church has only one big nave with lovely side altars on both sides.

    Antonio Bonfini (1427–1502) was the personal historian of king Matthias Corvinus. His sepulchral monument, which the sculptor John Seres works, can be seen at the left (south) side of the parish. Relief carved of red limestone. Author: János Seres. Inscription: IN MEMORY OF ANTONIO BONFINI KING MATTHIAS' CHRONICLER, BECAME HUNGARIAN, WHO WAS BURIED IN THE CHAPEL OF ST. MARGARET DRAWN IN THE OLD DAYS THIS PLACE.

    Adjacent to the parish church (east of it) is the Óbudai zsinagóga, Obuda Synagogue. Budapest's oldest synagogue, was built in 1737, demolished and rebuilt in 1820-1821 in classic style. Architect: Andreas Landesherr. Jews settled in Óbuda from 1712 at a time when Jews were forbidden to live in Buda. Countess Zichy invited them to live on Zichy family property in Óbuda. The building's original copper roof was requisitioned by the government and melted for ammunitions production during World War I. At the time the synagogue was built, the community of Óbuda was the largest Jewish community in Hungary. In 1850, the town had 3440 Jewish residents. The community shrank throughout the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as members moved into the flourishing city of Pest. But the town, district III of Budapest was still 10% Jewish in 1926. In the 1970s, the diminishing Jewish community sold the building for use as a television studio. Used for a long time as a TV studio, it was reinaugurated as a Synagogue on September 5, 2010:

    The Two Tablets on the top of the Obuda"s synagogue:

    200 m. west to the Synagogue - there is a famous restaurant - Kehli (see Tip below).

    We change direction and head northward again. It is 450 m. walk to the Vasarely Museum. From the Óbudai zsinagóga we head north on Lajos utca toward Zichy utca, 25 m. Turn left onto Zichy utca, 35 m. Turn right onto Lajos utca, 130 m. Turn right toward Szentlélek tér, 65 m. Slight left at Serfőző utca, Take the stairs, 110 m. Turn left onto Szentlélek tér, 45 m.
    We crossed the Arpad bridgw from south to north and, now, we are north to Arpad hid. The Danube is on our right (east). Situated at the northern end of Margaret Island, Arpad Bridge is the second longest and at present the most congested bridge in Budapest. It is named after chieftain Arpad, the leader of the first Magyar settlers of Hungary. The construction of the bridge had been planned since the installation of the old Elizabeth Bridge in 1903, however the design competition was only launched in 1930. Its construction was started in 1939 to the plans of János Kossalka. Due to World War II, the construction of the bridge was suspended in 1943 and could only be resumed in 1948. At that time, the so-called post-war "bridge battle"- i.e. the reinforcement of the endeavor to set into operation the largest possible number of Danube bridges as soon as possible and with the lowest possible material consumption - was in full swing. For this reason, the installation of the steel structure only included the parts attached to the two middle head-beams of the bridge, thus narrowing the bridge-deck from the originally planned 27.6 meters to 13 meters. The bridge was finally inaugurated on 7 November 1950, yet the socialist government named it after Stalin instead of the originally proposed Arpad. Finally, it was rechristened Arpad in 1958:

    On your way you will pass the Baroque-style Zichy palace (Zichy-kastély) that belonged to an aristocratic family, who once owned Óbuda. The palace, commissioned in the 18th century, is home to several Museums. There is a museum dedicated to the Hungarian born pop artist, Victor Vasarely, another to Lajos Kassák, an iconic figure of the Hungarian avant-garde movement and yet another to the history of Óbuda. The Baroque-style mansion was built by Henry John Zichy Jäger stonemason and Bebo Charles, sculptor between 1746 and 1752. The outbuildings were also made in the 18th century:

    Szentlélek tér:

    The Holy Trinity Statue at Szentlélek tér:

    At Szentlélek tér (or at the eastern end of Fő tér) an engrossing group of sculptures by Imre Varga - an artwork which became a symbol of Óbuda. The amazing group of sculptures  "Women with Umbrellas" makes you stop for a while and admire the artwork which became a symbol of Obuda. They lend a peculiar atmosphere to both of the the squares. You remember that Imre Varga also created the Tree of Life in the Great Jewish Synagogue in Pest:

    The first museum we'll browse is the Victor Vasarely Museum, 3rd District, Szentlélek tér 6, next to Árpád híd HÉV (Green Train Line departing from Red Metro Line Batthyány tér stop) - 170 m. south to Zichy-kastély. Victor Vasarely Museum, Hungarian born founder of op art. Two floors of colorful, geometric art.  Hundreds of works by the Hungarian born painter can be seen along with temporary exhibitions of other Hungarian artists. The museum is very well organized, and shows the evolution of Vasarely style until his late projects. Vasarely created his art without computers and used his imagination to make the geometric shapes in various shades. I loved this museum. The permanent exhibition is a refreshing, colorful and quite extraordinary. Opening hours: 10.00 - 17.30. Prices  (valid for both the permanent and temporary exhibits): full price 800 HUF, for Budapest Card owners: 700 HUF, discount tickets: (visitors from EU countries aged between 6-26, and 62-70): 400 HUF, free - for children under 6, visitors from EU countries over 70 years of age. Photo permit: 300 HUF, Video permit: 1 500 HUF:

    Óbuda Museum is in Fő tér - adjacent and north to Szentlélek tér. Entrance from: Fő tér (Main Square) 1-4. Open: TUE - SUN 10.00 - 18.00. Prices: full price: 800 HUF, discount ticket (visitors from EU countries aged between 6-26, and 62-70): 400 HUF, admission is free for children under 6, visitors from EU countries over 70 years of age, family ticket (2 adults+2 kids): 2 000 HUF. Rich collection introduces local history. Highlights include a 19th-century farmhouse kitchen from Békásmegyer, the output of master cooper Simon Tóbiás, and a vintage 1970s apartment interior. Hungary's only toy museum will be a thrill to kids and their parent alike. The Zsigmond Kun Flat Museum has a unique collection of folk art furniture.

    Lajos Kassák Museum, Entrance: Fő tér (Main Square) 1. Opening Hours: WED - SUN: 10.00 - 17.00, closed on MON - TUE. Prices: full price. 600 HUF, discount ticket (visitors from EU countries aged between 6-26, and 62-70): 300 HUF, admission is free for children under 6, visitors from EU countries over 70 years of age. The exhibition consisting of 20, 000 items depicts the life and works of Lajos Kassák (1887-1967), famous representative of Hungarian Avant-garde:

    We walk a few steps to the north to Fő tér. Getting to Fő tér: Take Subway (M2) to Batthyhány tér. From Batthyhány tér take the Suburban Railway (HÉV) to Árpád híd. FÖ TER (MAIN SQUARE) in Obuda is a secluded square from the 17th-18th centuries. The town hall is a beautiful building constructed in the 18th century. Fő tér is the main square in Óbuda, the oldest part of Budapest. This charming square is surrounded by several Baroque-style buildings, including the City Hall of Óbuda and some museums and restaurants. Most buildings were commissioned in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Óbuda belonged to the Zichys, a wealthy aristocratic family. Its like a little, silent island within the large city. Interestingly, the Fő tér is very quiet most of the time.

    The YELLOW building of the local government (to the left, west of the statues of "Women with Humbrellas") is also located at this square. The word VÁROSHÁZA means City Hall, but, nowadays, it hosts the district mayor. The exterior is MARVELLOUS:

    We return to the centre of Pest by: Walk about 3 min , 230 m to 8:54 PM
    Szentlélek tér. We take the HEV Commuter train H5 towards Batthyány tér (4 stops) to  Batthyány tér stop. We take the Subway M2 (RED) towards Örs vezér tere (2 stops) and stop at Deák Ferenc tér.

  • Citywalk | Hungary
    Updated at Mar 10,2015

    1 day around the Heroes' Square: The Heroes' Square, The National Museum of Fine Arts (closed until May 2018), Palace of Art (the Béla Bartók National Concert Hall, the Ludwig Museum, the Festival Theatre), Budapest City Park, Castle Vajdahunyad, the Ják chapel, The Statue of Anonymus, the city lake with its ice skating rink (winter only), Szechenyi Baths, Budapest Zoo & Botanical Garden.

    Start & End: Hősök tere M1 Metro station.

    Hősök tere - The Heroes' Square:

    Heroes' Square is the largest and most impressive square of the city. Heroes’ Square in the 6th district is one of the most visited sights in Budapest. It is a World Heritage site. Whether you are a history buff, or a normal tourist, you cannot skip this place. It is a gem in it's own right, a simply fabulous monument.

    Transport: Take the M1 (Yellow line) to Hősök tere.


    • Square is almost always crowded with tourists, so if you want to take good pictures of the square and the Millennium monument, you should probably come very early in the morning. In the night the square is especially beautiful because of the amazing lighting - breathtaking !!!.
    • Combine the square with a stroll along Andrassy Avenue and / or a visit in the City Park/zoo (Városliget) and / or the National Gallery of Fine Arts. The Budapest Zoo, the Holnemvolt Park (past Amusement Park), the Municipal Circus, the Museum of Transport, the legendary Gundel Restaurant and the famous Széchenyi Baths are also located within City Park.
    • If you have the time, it's worthwhile to visit Heroes' Square at least twice: both during the day and at night.
    • There’s a Tourist Information stall in the building of the City Park Ice Rink.
    • Note: There are also three other squares in Budapest entitled Hősök tere, in Soroksár, Békásmegyer and Rákosliget.

    Orientation: Hősök tere is surrounded by two important buildings, Museum of Fine Arts on the left and Palace of Art (or more accurately Hall of Art) on the right. On the other side it faces Andrássy Avenue which has two buildings looking at the square — one is residential and the other one is the embassy of Serbia (former Yugoslavian embassy where Imre Nagy secured sanctuary in 1956).


    The square had been constructed in 1896 to mark the 1000th anniversary of Hungary. It is located at the end of Andrássy Avenue and next to City Park. It is  surrounded by two important buildings, Museum of Fine Arts on the left (see Tip below) and Kunsthalle (Hall of Art) on the right, The square construction was part of a much larger construction project which also included the expansion and refurbishing of Andrássy Avenue and the construction of the first metro line in Budapest.

    The central feature of Heroes' Square, as well as a landmark of Budapest, is the Millennium Memorial (Millenáriumi Emlékmű). The Millennium Monument, designed in 1894 by Albert Schickedanz and completed thirty-five years later. The many statues were designed by György Zala. The Millennium Monument in the middle of the square was erected (in 1896-7) to commemorate the 1000-year-old arrival of the Magyars to the Carpathian areas. Archangel Gabriel (the symbol of the Roman Catholic religion) stands on top of the center pillar (36 m. high), holding the holy St. Stephen’s Crown and the double cross of Christianity. According to the story, Gabriel appeared to St. Stephen in his dream and offered him the crown of Hungary. Pope Sylvester II indeed sent a crown to him acknowledging Hungary and King Stephen as a defender of Christendom. Today you can view the Holy Crown in Budapest Parliament. Árpád and the seven leaders who led the Magyar tribes to Hungary (Előd, Ond, Kond, Tas, Huba, and Töhötöm), around 896 AD,  can be seen on the stand below. Árpád's descendants formed the Hungarian royal dynasty. Statues of kings, governors and other important historical figures stand on top of the colonnades on either side of the center pillar. From left to right you can see: King St. Stephen – Hungary’s first king, founder of the Hungarian state, King St. László- a noble and  king, several miracles are attributed to him, King Kálmán Könyves King Coloman de Beaiclerc-annexed Croatia and Dalmatia to Hungary, King András II – participated in the Crusades, King Béla IV – rebuilt the country after the Mongol invade in the 13th century, King Charles Robert – created a strong and wealthy Hungary in the first half of the 14th century, King I Nagy Lajos - son of Charles Robert, during his reign Hungary reached the greatest expansion of its territory, King Matthias – a Renaissance King who made Buda Europe’s cultural centre in the 15th century, István Bocskai- as a result of his fight against the Habsburg reign Transylvania became independent in 1606, Gábor Bethlen – prince of Transylvania in the 17th century, leader of an anti-Habsburg uprising, Imre Thököly – leader of Hungarian Protestants against the Habsburg rule, Ferenc Rákócz I - leader of the War of Independence against the Habsburgs in the 18th century, Lajos Kossuth – leader of the 1848/49 War of Independence. At the foot of each statue a small relief depicts the most important moment of the life of the personality.

    The monument consists of two semi-circles on the top of which the symbols of War and Peace, Work and Welfare, Knowledge and Glory can be seen. Statues of the right colonnade: John Hunyadi - The Siege of Belgrade (1456), Matthias Corvinus, Matthias with his scholars, István Bocskay, Hajdú soldiers defeat the imperial forces, Gabriel Bethlen who concluded a treaty with Bohemia, Imre Thököly - The battle of Szikszó, Francis II Rákóczi - who returned from Poland, Lajos Kossuth - who rallied the peasants of the Great Plain.

    Since many of the attractions weren't ready in time, in 1896, the festivities were held one year later in 1897. When the monument was originally constructed, Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and thus the last five spaces for statues on the left of the colonnade were reserved for members of the ruling Habsburg dynasty. From left to right these were Ferdinand I (relief: Defense of the Castle at Eger); Leopold I (relief: Eugene of Savoy defeats the Turks at Zenta), Charles III, Maria Theresa (relief: The Hungarian Diet votes support "vitam et sanguinem") and Franz Joseph (relief: Franz Joseph crowned by Gyula Andrássy). The Habsburg emperors were replaced with Hungarian freedom fighters when the monument was rebuilt after World War II. The memorial won the first prize at the 1900 World Exhibition in Paris. The monument was completely finished in 1929 and the square received its name 3 years later, in 1932.

    During the Communist era the place saw many demonstrations on national Hungarian holidays. In 1989 a crowd of 250,000 gathered at the square for the reburial of Imre Nagy, former Prime Minister of Hungary, who was executed in 1958. Since 2002 the Millennium Monument together with Andrásy Avenue is part of UNESCO’s prestigious World Heritage sites.

    The tomb of the unknown soldier can also be found in the square. The Hungarian War Memorial stands in front of the column commemorating the heroes who died for the independence of Hungary. A popular spot for wreath-laying ceremonies on national holidays. At the two sides the representative buildings of the Museum of Fine Arts and the Art Gallery both worth a visit with high standard temporary exhibitions, such as Van Gough, Rembrandt and the collections of Spanish and French paintings.

  • Citywalk | Portugal
    Updated at Aug 22,2014

    Coimbra - Day 1:

    Main Attractions: Coimbra B railway station, Praça do Comércio, Church of São Tiago, Church of São Bartolomeu, Largo da Portagem, Arco de Almedina, Torre de Almedina, Old Cathedral of Coimbra, Largo de Porta Ferrea, University of Coimbra (Porta Férrea, Via Latina, Páco das Escolas, University Tower, Sala dos Capelos (and Private Examination Room and Arms Room), Academic Prison, Saint Michael's Chapel and Joanine Library), Largo Dom Dinis, Coimbra city walls, Coimbra Botanical Gardens, Jardim de Sereia, Praca da Republica, Jardim de Avenida Sá da Bandeira, Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes with its Azulejos, Jardim da Manga, Municipal Museum, Santa Cruz Monastery.

    Duration: 1 busy day.

    Start: Coimbra B railway station.

    End: Praca 8 de Maio (8 minutes walk from Coimbra B).

    Distance: 14 km.

    First of all - Coimbra is pronounced as Ko-EEM-bra. The country’s third-largest city, Coimbra lies at the centre of an agricultural region and has a large market. Perched on a hill overlooking the Rio Mondego, Coimbra is surrounded by breathtakingly beautiful countryside. The city itself is a mixture of ancient and new, rural and urban.

    Coimbra is sort of the Oxford or Cambridge of Portugal —the home of its most venerable university. Coimbra, the former capital of Portugal is 50km. from the Atlantic, and two hours north of Lisbon. From Lisbon  Oriente station: two trains per hour leave for Coimbra, taking two hours or the slower ones - two hours 20 minutes. All trains from Portugal and Lisbon stop in Coimbra-B, a station far from the city center. Your ticket includes a 5-minute connection to Coimbra-A, the station in downtown Coimbra.

    The bus station is located at Av. Fernão de Magalhães and is easily reached by local bus or on foot (a long walk{10 minutes} to city center). It has destinations for all of Portugal (with changes for some far away destinations), and it's faster and fares are normally cheaper than the train.

    With your back to Coimbra B railway station -

    opposite us is Rua Antonio Granjo.We cross this road and Largo das Ameias. On our right is Hotel Mondego and on our left is Hotel Braganca. We cross (cross-lights) Avenida Fernão de Magalhães and enter narrow Rua Adelino Veiga. This road is typical to the Baixa (downtown) of Coimbra: pebbled-roads, blooming containers of flowers in the entrance of every shop and window. Down by the river is Coimbra's "Baixa" (downtown), the commercial heart of the city, with lively cafes, pastry shops, restaurants, boutiques, and other shops leading to the Comercio Square. In the end of Rua Adelino Veiga (and turning, a bit, to the right, east) we arrive to the Praça do Comércio. A beautiful, spacious square in the heart of the historical center of Coimbra. It is entirely closed to traffic, a very nice and easy to get to and accessible pedestrian area.
    There's a large number of great cafe's all with, of course, tables outside too. Many bars, restaurants and a pub with outdoor tables and umbrellas. Once a month in the square there is the Feira de Flea Market with exposure of Coimbra. The square, which at one time was also called Praça de São Bartolomeu and Praça Velha, owes its name to the 'intense trade activity' that took place here, until the last century, before the creation of the new Mercado Dom Pedro V (see later). The square , is irregularly shaped oblong, full with character and potential, BUT, shows clear signs of economic decay:

    As you end Rua Adelino Veiga, opposite,In a corner of Comercio square is the Church of São Tiago (Saint James), with a plain 12th-century façade, but in its interior is an exuberant Rococo alterpiece in gilded wood. Note the beautiful capitals decorating its portals. This Church is very small. Most of the time it is closed.

    Another church, at the end of the square,  is the Baroque Church of São Bartolomeu. This modest but beautiful church located in the historic center of Coimbra in the main street Rua dos Esteireiros, in Largo de Portagem. Very nice facade although it would need a light restoration. The church was built in the 10th century and reconstructed in the 12th and 18th centuries. The reconstruction in the 12th century turned it into a Romanesque church. Today the church has the Baroque look. The façade has two bell towers, one on each side of the main door. There is one nave in the church. The main altarpiece is gilded and is Baroque. In the back you can see some Medieval houses:

    Above it is a large painting of the martyrdom of St. Bartholomew and was painted by the Italian artist Pasquale Parente. On the Gospel side there is a Mannerist altarpiece from the 16th century with a painting showing the death and resurrection of Christ:

    There are Sanitarios in the Praca Comercio (the east side, in the direction of Largo de Portagem).

    The Baixa, the downtown neighborhood. It is a steep, exhausting but walkable uphill climb from there to the Alta, where the University campus sits. In general, Coimbra is a very steep city, and visiting the old quarter is hard. You may use the elevator that stands right behind the market (quite distant from where we are now...) to go up, and make your visit from top to base. It's cheap and comfortable:

    Another mean of transportaion: From Coimbra B train station take Trolleybus No. 1, it stops next to the Library. From Coimbra A (you will have to change there) in case the connecting train just left - take bus No. 5 or 25 to Praca de Republica (near the University).

    We shall climb to the Alta Cidade - on foot. I suggest to go to the University on foot. it's a great experience to walk along the narrow and cobbled streets. I know that it's quite steep, but it's not a long way. Furthermore, in between, there are some wonderful sights to visit. Both areas (Baixa and Alta) are graced with narrow, winding streets, though the Alta is mostly taken up by University buildings and graffiti-covered student housing, whereas the Baixa is loaded with shops, restaurants and other commercial activity. Ancient churches, picturesque plazas and the nearly total lack of international chain stores can make both areas feel like the 1950s — or the 1590s...

    If our back is to Largo da Portagem we turn RIGHT along the stairs (east) to Escadas de sao Bartolomeu. If our back is to Church of São Tiago and the start of Praca do Comercio (where we came from) - turn LEFT (east) along the stairs to Escadas de sao Bartolomeu. In the end of the Escadas, if you cannot resist, turn right and walk along Rua Ferreira Borges until you arrive to the Largo da Portagem. The Largo da Portagem is located down by the river and is the place where various means of transportaion of the city pass by. Many municipal buses seem to go there, including the Yellow Bus tourist bus that takes an hour tour of the city. You can do a river boat tour from there. The main shopping street (Rua Ferreira Borges) is there too. There are a many restaurants in the Largo itself, offering a wide variety of things. They're not all budget ones, but they are useful if you want a quick rest and a snack. Recommended for a little stop and a drink in one of the cafes outside, perfect for soaking up a bit of sun and taking a rest (before we climb to the Alta Cidade). Pleasant classic music from the loudspeakers around:

    Retrace your steps and walk back along Rua Ferreira Borges and turn right (in the first turn to the right) (there is a signpost - "Universidade, Zona Monumental) to the Arco de Almedina. The city of Coimbra had a fence walls, dating back to the sixth century, furnished with several watchtowers. Arco de Almedina was one of the main entrances to the city. The Almedina Arch and the lofty lookout tower formed part of the complex defense of this old city. It is assumed that this arch was built during the reign of King Afonso III and Dinis. The entrance to the ancient, upper town (once both a Jewish and Moorish quarter), is, mainly, through the Arco de Almedina. Steps lead (on your left) (DO NOT TURN LEFT along these steps)up to the Torre de Anto, a 16th century tower that now houses an arts and crafts gallery. Here are also houses called "Republicas" where the university students live, just as they have for centuries. We shall return to Torre de Anto in another day's blog.

    Two-three minutes of climb behind the arch - you see, on your left the Torre de Almedina. Opposite it stands this sculpture:

    This was possibly one of the most imposing towers on the perimeter of the wall, due to its strategic importance, since they constitute the most important access, civil and military, to the city. It may date back to the time of Count Sesnando Davides who conquered Coimbra in 1064, having been over the centuries repeatedly renovated and refurbished. Its present appearance may be the result of a reconstruction in the early sixteenth century by order of Manuel I of Portugal. On the outside of the arc you see the oldest heraldic coat-of-arms of Coimbra and bas-relief of the thirteenth century made ​​by a serpent and a lion. The Almedina Tower is divided into two floors and looks robust as one stone unit. The upper part of the tower is torn by barred windows with columns. One reaches the exterior door by a steep stone staircase outside. Internally, the first and second floors are connected by a narrow staircase masonry.
    Previous building was added in 1541 in order to settle there the Town Hall. It had been known then as the Tower of Appeal. From 1878 worked at the site the Free School of Arts of Design, under the guidance of António Augusto Gonçalves. Currently, and after various interventions of restoration and conservation, the tower houses the Municipal Historical Archive. Adult - 1.80€, senior - 1.20€.

    The Baixa Cidade of Coimbra from Torre de Almedina windows:

    Torre de Almedina interior (Recoltar Palarras organization - Alice Cardoso):

    From Torre de Almedina climb a few steps to Rua Quebra Costas (in Portuguese: Backbone breaker...) and take a photo of this sculpture:

    Continue to climb along Rua Quebra Costas. Arriving to an intersection - turn RIGHT (signpost: Munumentos Universidade). Climb the stairs (on your right - resthouse) and you arrive to Largo da Se' Velha.

    Here stands the Se' Velha de Coimbra - the Old Cathedral of Coimbra. Entrance fees: €2, Opening hours: Mon–Thu and Sat. 10.00 – 18.00, Fri. 10.00 - 16.00. It is one of the most important Romanesque Roman Catholic buildings in Portugal. The Sé Velha (Old Cathedral), renovated in the 20th century, was built between 1162 and 1184. It served as a cathedral until 1772, when the episcopal see was moved to the Sé Nova. Construction of the Sé Velha began some time after the Battle of Ourique (1139), when Count Afonso Henriques declared himself King of Portugal and chose Coimbra as capital. The first Count of Coimbra, the Mozarab Sisnando Davides, is buried in the cathedral. Coimbra Cathedral is the only one of the Portuguese Romanesque cathedrals from the Reconquista times to have survived relatively intact up to the present. From the outside, Coimbra's old cathedral looks like a small fortress. The fortress look is common to the cathedrals of that time and can be explained with the battle time that was taking place at that time. There is a tower-like structure in the middle of the western façade with a portal and a similar-looking upper window.

    The most notable aspect of the Romanesque decoration of the Old Cathedral is the large number of sculpted capitals (around 380), which make of the monument one of the main Romanesque sculpture nucleus in Portugal. The main decorative motifs are vegetal and geometric interlacements and reveal Arab and pre-romanesque influences, but there are also pairs of quadrupeds (including centaurs) or birds facing each other. There are practically no human representations, and no Biblical scenes.

    The north façade has a remarkable, although eroded, Renaissance-style portal called the Porta Especiosa:

    The exterior doesn't give you any indication of the beautiful carvings and sculpture that await inside. The interior of the cathedral has a nave with two aisles, a small transept, and an eastern apse with three chapels. All columns of the interior have decorated capitals, mainly with vegetable motifs, but also with animals and geometric patterns. The windows of the lantern-tower and the big window in the west facade are the main sources of natural light of the cathedral. The cloister, built during the reign of Afonso II (early 13th century), is a work of the transition between Romanesque and Gothic. Each of the Gothic pointed arches that face the courtyard encompass two twin round arches in Romanesque style. The intricate Gothic altar within is of gilded wood, created by two Flemish masters in the 15th and 16th centuries. Sancho I was crowned king here in 1185, and João I in 1385. There are several tombs in the cathedral, including those of the 13th-century Bishop Dom Egas Fafe (to the left of the altar) and Dona Vetaça, a Byzantine princess who was a governess in the Coimbra court in the 14th century. Inside the highlights are a number of fine tombs, a large Late Gothic altar, and a Renaissance font. From the south aisles, a flight of steps leads up to the Early Gothic 13th century cloister:

    From the Old Cathedral climb and zig-zag with Rua da Ilha (south to the Cathedral). Look backward to the the Se' (cathedral) turrets:

    All twisting roads around - are pebbled. The road continues with a light slope downward. You arrive to a signpost pointing to: Universidade, Museu machado castro, Se' Nova. Continue to climb along Rua da Ilha. On your left an asphalted road. You can choose to climb along this asphalted road - just to have a marvelous view over the city roofs:

    Trace back, return and turn left to Rua da Ilha and climb up. Look at the typical roofs of the old buildings around:

    Continue up along this road that changes its name to: Rua Doutor Guilherme and Rua José Falcão. Turn left (road without name) and you arrive to Largo de Porta Ferrea / Ferrera. In 1544, it was the Paço das Escolas which agglutinated all the Faculties of the University of Coimbra, after the final accommodation of the University in this city in 1537. I stress the point that Largo de Porta Ferrera (Ferrea) is the square OUT of the University walls. You enter the University courtyard / Páco das Escolas (Patio of the Schools) through the Iron Gate Porta Ferrera. Unbelievable magnificent square.

    The whole site of the University of Coimbra is reported in a subordinate Tip to this itinerary.

    We leave the Páco das Escolas from the its entrance through the Porta de Ferrea and walk east, crossing the Largo de Porta Ferrea eastward. we walk along Rua Larga and arrive to Largo Dom Dinis - a large roundabout with a statue in the middle: the Monument to D. Dinis (King of Portugal from 1279 to 1325). It is located in Largo D. Dinis on the alignment of the "Iron Gate", which is separated by a wide avenue:

    On our right is the University building of the Dept. of Mathematics. Several steps forward and you see the Escadas Monumentais (Monumental Stairs), Coimbra walls and city's red roofs:

    From Largo Dom Dinis (Diniz) we turn right in 45 degrees, south-east to Calçada Martim de Freitas and walk along Coimbra city walls on your right:

    You pass, on your right, the Instituto Botanico and, immediately further,  under a 16th century aqueduct, is the entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Portugal's largest, created in 1772. There is a combination of flowerbeds (a remarkable collection of some 1200 plants, including many rare and exotic species), meandering paths, and elegant fountains.

    Arcos do Jardim - Botanical Garden Viaduct:

    A corner memorizing Luis Carrisso Martim de Freitas:

    The 19th-century mansion nearby is the House-Museum of Bissaya Barreto, who was a local surgeon. The house was converted into a museum with Portuguese sculpture and painting, Chinese porcelain, old tiles, period furniture, and more.

    I recommend exiting the Botanical Garden from its main entrance in Calçada Martim de Freitas. In case you exit the garden in the western exit, walk around the garden and arrive to Calçada Martim de Freitas. Walk eastward along Calçada Martim de Freitas until you arrive to an extensive square - Largo João Paulo II:

    We continue, from the north-east corner of the square to Rua de Tomar. On your left, you pass Rua Almeida Garrett and we enter Park santa Cruz or Jardim de Sereia. In the eighteenth century, the Incarnation D. Gaspar promoted the garden's arrangement, making it a recreational space, having been built around the playground (the Pella) and, simultaneously, a garden of rest and meditation in Baroque style. The formal entrance to the garden is made from the Republic Square (the opposite direction of our entry). From the back exit - we turn LEFT (WEST) into the garden. Descending the stairs, we find the Fountain of Nogueira with a statue representing a merman opening his mouth to a dolphin, where the water runs to the source, which explains the popular designation of the garden "Mermaid":

    We exit the garden from the Republic Square (Praca da Republica). It presents three statues representing Faith, Hope and Charity, culminating in a cascade. The entrance, consists of a large arches as a quite huge gate. These arches are finely carved and artistically are quite fascinating, and within this park you can admire notable architectural works similar spread all around. There is a Tourist Information office in the Republic Square. We continue from the north-west corner of the square - along Avenida Sá da Bandeira and the Jardim de Avenida Sá da Bandeira admiring the manicured gardening cells, statues spread along the avenue and fountains. On your right - the Golden Shopping Centre.

    The most remarkable statue is the one in memorial to the WW I:

    You continue walking westward along Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes and the University of Coimbra hill is on your left. Mercado (the municipal Market) Dom Pedro V is also on your left, a bit further to the west. If you look on your right - you see a low wall with wonderful cermaic tiles (Azulejos) of various sites in Coimbra (just before, east to, Escola Secundária Jaime Cortesão):

    (Azulejos) of Mosteiro de Santa Clara - a -Velha:

    Azulejo of Igreja de Sao Tiago:

    Azulejo of Arco de Almedina:

    Further west, on your left is Jardim da Manga. Manga Garden is also known as the Cloister Manga. This public area is located at the rear of the Monastery of Santa Cruz, in downtown. It is one of the first fully Renaissance architectural works made ​​in Portugal and its structure is evocative of the Fountain of Life. It dates back to ancient source of Manga, the Monastery of Santa Cruz, belonging to the monks of the Order of St. Augustine, built in 1528. The garden is dominated by a building, that contains dome and a source, connected to four small chapels and small lakes. The whole site Is classified as a National Monument since 1934. The central building is In Renaissance style and characterized by a central dome-shaped body, resting on eight columns and surrounded by four small chapels. Noteworthy are the water games inspired by Moorish architecture:

    A few steps further, on the left (south) side of the Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes street - you can visit a charming exhibition, in the Sala de Cidade (Municipal Museum)  on the history, past and present of Coimbra with many "oldies" - photos from the past of Coimbra (the lion's share from 50-60 years ago):

    In my visit in the Sala de Cidade at July 2014 I enjoyed the photos (temporary exhibition) of Varela Pe'curto. A bit further, still on the southern side of Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes  stands Santa Cruz Monastery (Moistero Santa Cruz), Rua Martins de Carvalho 3 - the next, and last (for today) attraction. It is a National Monument in Coimbra and Portugal. Because the first two kings of Portugal are buried in the church it was granted the status of National Pantheon. Founded in 1131 outside the protecting walls of Coimbra, the Santa Cruz Monastery was the most important monastic house during the early days of the Portuguese monarchy. The monastery and church were erected between 1132 and 1223. Its school, with its vast library, was highly respected in medieval times and was a meeting point for the intellectual and power elites. Its scriptorium was used for the consolidation of royal power by King Afonso Henriques, thus it was not considered strange that he decided to be buried there. Nothing remains of the early Romanesque monastery. It is known that it had only one nave and a high tower in the façade, as typical of the Augustinian-Romanesque constructions, but none of those elements subsisted. In the first half of the 16th century, the Monastery was completely renovated by King Manuel's order. The main portal, built between 1522 and 1525 under Chanterene, is the most emblematic piece of the whole monastic ensemble, harmonising the artistic elements of the Manueline with other features from Renaissance inspiration. Through the whole 16th century, worked at Santa Cruz de Coimbra the most respected architects, sculptors and painters, such as Diogo de Castilho, Machim and Jean of Rouen, Cristóvão de Figueiredo and Vasco Fernandes besides the already mentioned Chanterene, Boytac and Diogo Pires the Younger. It is also called the National Pantheon because the first two kings of Portugal are buried there. These kings are Afonso Henriques and his successor, Sancho I (the conqueror and inhabitant – first and second kings of Portugal). Their tombs were created by Nicolau Chanterene, and these were done in 1530. The tombs are on both sides of the main altar - so you cannot visit this part of the church while a religious service is taking place. You can enter the main part for free but for 2.50 euro you can see the sacristy and much more.

    The square opposite the main entrance of the monastery is Praca 8 de Maio:

    The Monumental entrance. The portal was constructed in 1522 by Diogo de Castilla, with sculptures from Nicolau de Chanterene. There are three sculptures in the central part by Joao de Ruao, and these are the Prophet, King David, and Our Lady. The Baroque triumphal arch came later from the hand of the priest Jose do Couto.

    Inside the Monastery - walls are decorated with “Azulejos” or hand painted stone tiles. They are from the 17th century:

    Baroque pipe organ of the 18th century inside the Monastery of Santa Cruz. The organ is the work of Manuel Brito Gomez Herrera and was finished in 1724:

    After you have visited this all, by leaving the church of Santa Cruz, turn to your left and have a nice cold beer or something else in the café Santa Cruz on the side.

    Another Coimbra tradition is Fado, a more serious cousin of the Lisbon variety. The sombre Coimbra Fado theoretically requires you to clear your throat in approval after a rendition, and not applaud. It is performed only by men, often cloak-wrapped graduates of the university. Fado is native to Portugal and is best described as traditional Portuguese urban folk music. It is based on classical poems and grew out of the oral tradition hundreds of years ago in Lisbon. Two main branches have developed. Both usually consist of two acoustic guitarists and a vocalist. The Lisbon branch has a female vocalist, while the Coimbra branch features a male vocalist. Queima das Fitas, the May festival, is the best time to take in local Fado. But there are several spots that function as performance venues year-round. The best are usually free: the no-cover Café Santa Cruz, in Baixa, housed since 1923 under the vaulted ceilings that used to be part of the adjacent 16th-century church and monastery.

  • Citywalk | Portugal
    Updated at Sep 10,2014

    Porto - from Casa da Musica to Torre dos Clerigos:

    Attractions: Praça de Mouzinho de Albuquerque, Avenida da Boavista, Casa da Música, synagogue "Kadoorie - Mekor Haim", Jardim Botânico do Porto, Parque e Jardim da Fundação Serralves, Jardins do Palácio de Cristal do Porto - Crystal Palace Gardens (!!!), Torre dos Clérigos.

    Start: Casa da Musica Metro station.

    End  : Sao Beneto Metro station.

    Weather and Orientation: the first half of the day can be gloomy, cloudy or rainy. But, PLEASE reserve, at least, two sunny, bright hours, during the second half -  for the stunning Crystal Palace Gardens !!! I recommend NOT coming to the Crystal Palace Gardens in the 1st half of the day. Fog obscures, frequently, the view over the Douro but when it lifts the view is fantastic. The gardens are wonderful, especially when the afternoon sun hits the parks at such an angle to create beautiful lighting amongst the trees. But the icing on this cake is the views across the Douro River to Vila Nova de Gaia and Ribeira. Anyone who enjoys scenic views and photography would love these gardens.

    The Itinerary: from the Casa de Musica Metro station walk south to the Rotunda da Boavista - which is the nickname for the Praça de Mouzinho de Albuquerque. A large roundabout in Porto, Portugal. Its official name honours Joaquim Augusto Mouzinho de Albuquerque, a Portuguese soldier that fought in Africa during 19th century. A column in the middle of the square (Monumento aos Heróis da Guerra Peninsular) commemorates the victory of the Portuguese against the French troops that invaded Portugal during the Peninsular War (1807–1814). The column, slowly built between 1909 and 1951, is a project by celebrated Porto architect José Marques da Silva and sculptor Alves de Sousa. After the death of the sculptor Alves de Sousa, still young (38 years), the work was completed under the direction of sculptors Henrique Moreira and Sousa Caldas.

    There are eight streets reaching the Rotunda da Boavista roundabout:

    Avenida da Boavista (twice)
    Rua de Caldas Xavier
    Rua da Meditação
    Rua de Júlio Dinis
    Rua de Nossa Senhora de Fátima
    Avenida de França
    Rua de Cinco de Outubro.

    The Casa da Música, Porto's modern music venue, is located in the west side of the Rotunda da Boavista. Casa da Música (House of Music) is a major concert hall space in Porto, which houses the cultural institution of the same name with its three orchestras: Orquestra Nacional do Porto, Orquestra Barroca and Remix Ensemble. It was designed by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas with Office for Metropolitan Architecture and Arup-AFA, and was built as part of Porto's project for European Culture Capital in 2001. But was only finished in the first half of 2005 and immediately became an icon in the city. The Building engineers were Arup (London) together with Afassociados (Porto). Inside Outside (Petra Blaisse) designed the large 13 curtains, ranging from 22mx15m to 65mx8m, and the gold leaf wood grain pattern on the large auditorium. The building was inaugurated on 15 April 2005. The building's design has been highly acclaimed worldwide. The New York Times, classified it as the "most attractive project the architect Rem Koolhaas has ever built" and saying it's "a building whose intellectual ardor is matched by its sensual beauty". It also compares it to the "exuberant design" in Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. "Only looking into the original aspect of the building, this is one of the most important concert halls built in the last 100 years". The NY Times compares it to the Walt Disney Concert Hall, in Los Angeles, and the Berliner Philharmonie. The House of Music is the main place in Porto to go either for classic music or for any other type of music. Most of Fridays at 9 pm you can listen the Symphonic Orchestra of Porto performing any of the main compositors symphonies. Worth to see a concert and worth to see the building. You can go inside the lobby, free, and you already see enough... Restaurant at the top floor is open on weekdays only ! Food and concerts reasonably priced. The concert hall is with excellent acoustics and enthusiastic audience. I was at a free performance of the three orchestras of Porto and enjoyed the music, the hall and the audience. Easy to reserve tickets at a reasonable price, or free -  online. Opening hours: BUILDING, TICKET OFFICE AND SHOP: Winter: Monday to Saturday: 10.00-19.00, Sundays and holidays: 10.00-18.00. Summer: Monday to Saturday: 10.00 -18.00, Sunday and Holidays: 10:00 -18:00. RESTAURANT: Monday to Wednesday: 12.30–15.00, 19.30–23.00, Thursday to Saturday: 12.30–15.00, 19.30–00.00, Sundays and Holidays: Closed. On performance days, the Bar in the Restaurant closes one hour after the end of the performance. Guided Tours: +351 220 120 210,

    Ceremonial Brass Bands Parade - Casa da Musica square:

    Old houses along Avenida da Boavista, opposite Casa da Musica - the ultimate contrast to the architectural gem:

    We walk west along Avenida da Boavista (part of the famous avenue is under reconstructions).  Turn left (south) in the 2nd intersection to Rua Guerra Junqueiro. WE are heading to the synagogue "Kadoorie - Mekor Haim" ("source of life" in Hebrew) is located on Guerra Junqueiro street No. 340. Its construction started in 1929 and was inaugurated in 1938. It is the largest synagogue in the Iberian Peninsula. In the year 1929, Laura Kadoorie, the wife of a Jewish philanthropist of Iraqi origin, Sir Elly Kadoorie died, and her children saw in this unfortunate event the necessity to honor their mother, a descendant of Portuguese Jews who fled the country from the Inquisition. This tribute was reflected in the monetary support of the Kadoorie family to the construction of large parts of the Synagogue of Porto, which was renamed "Synagogue Kadoorie - Mekor Haim.". For unclear reason I found the Synagogue closed on Saturday ("Shabat"):

    Return back to the Boavista avenue, turn LEFT (west), pass Rua António José da Costa on your left - and you'll see the Porto Palacio Hotel (Boavista 1269), as well, on your left:

    A bit further west, still on the left side (south) of Boavista avenue - you see the Casa das Artes with its interesting garden (nothing to see inside the house):

    opposite, on the north side of Boavista avenue - an art gallery of sculpture. MON-FRI 10.00 - 12.30, 14.00 -19.30, SAT 14.30-19.00:

    Turn left to Rua António Cardoso and walk (south) until its end to enter the Jardim Botânico do Porto (Botanical Garden), Rua do Campo Alegre 1191. Due to temporary works there - the entrance might be from Travessa Entrecampos. Free admission. Guided tours in foreign languages (also free). Open: winter weekdays only: 09.00 - 17.00, summer - weekdays 09.00 - 18.00, weekends 10.00-18.00. The Porto Botanical Garden might not be the most spectacular green space in Porto, yet it might worth a visit. The garden was created in 1951 under the patronage of the Portuguese state, on the former manor of Joao Henrique Andresen. During the time, the Porto Botanical Garden was greatly diminished, both in terms of size (now, its surface amounts to some 4 hectares) and plant life patrimony (though the diversity of the flora is quite notable). However, at present the garden shelters sundry rare and exotic plant species, featuring highlights like the cacti garden, a greenhouse and a historical garden (the latter comprising a rose garden). There’s also a lake situated within the perimeter of the Botanical Garden, the habitat of a fairly numerous population of water lilies. The Porto Botanical Garden is managed by the Faculty of Sciences of the University of Porto. Part of the greenhouses are closed to the public:

    "The boy of Bronze":

    We leave the botanical garden from its north exit, turn left (west) along Rua Campo Alegre and turn right (north) to Rua Ruben A. Part of the homes, in these roads, are empty. Turn LEFT (west) to Rua da Venezuela and walk the rest of the road until its end. Then, turn right (north) to Rua João Grave. On your left: McDonald branch and WC.  Arriving, again, to Avenida Boa Vista - turn LEFT (west). Here, the famous avenue is not under massive reconstructions with their unavoidable noise and dust. On the left side Porto Magnum project and another commercial / residence complex and on the right - the Bessa(****) hotel. We continue walking west, crossing a bridge over an highway. Note, on your left side (south) house No. 2533 (Colegio Universitaria da Boavista Tangerina). Another house with nice ceramic tiles is in # 2609. Here, is the house # 2671. On its right side a luxurious restaurant:

    We turn left (south) in the next square (note the sculptures) to Avenida Marechal Gomes da Costa:

    In Avenida Marechal Gomes da Costa we walk south-west and turn left (south) (2nd turn) to Rua Serralves. The entrance to the Parque e Jardim da Fundação Serralves is easily noticed with  yellow color. MUSEUM: Tuesday to Friday: 10.00 - 17.00. Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays: 10.00 - 20.00. PARK: Mon: 10.00 - 19.00 (JUL-SEP), Tuesday to Friday: 10.00 - 19.00. Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays: 10.00 - 20.00. Mon: the Park is closed on Mondays, from April till June. VILLA: Tuesday to Friday: 10.00 - 17.00. TICKET OFFICE: Monday to Friday: 10.00 - 18.45. Saturday, Sunday and Holidays: 10.00 -  19.45. Café: Monday to Friday: 12.00 - 19.00. Saturdays: 10.00 - 19.00. Sundays: 10.00 - 20.00. Restaurant: The Restaurant is closed at dinner time, unless a dinner reservation is made. For reservations: 226 170 355.  ADMISSION FEE: Museum and Park – € 8,50, Park – € 4,00. 50% DISCOUNTS: Cartão-jovem (Youth card), Senior citizens aged over 65, Porto Card. Free - Sundays: 1.00 – 13.00 with free tickets use valid until 13.30, Under 18s, Higher Education Students (B.A. Hons. Degrees and Master’s degrees). Serralves is a cultural institution, one of the most important of all the country. It includes a Contemporary Art Museum, a Park and a Villa, each one an example of contemporary architecture, Modernism, and Art Deco architecture. All the area is filled with beauty and creativity, consisting of several spaces, such as the Park, the House, the Contemporary Art Museum, the Library, the Auditorium and this amazing Park.

    The Museum, designed by Álvaro Siza Vieira, is now the most visited museum in Portugal (more than 300,000 visitors per year) and one of the most relevant in the contemporary art circuit in Europe. The first step towards establishing the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art was taken on November 27, 1996, when the Board of Directors invited Viicente Todoli to become the museum’s Artistic Director, alongside Assistant Director, João Fernandes. Serralves Museum opened in 1999 in order to endow Porto with a space dedicated to contemporary art. The Museum’s core objectives are the constitution of a representative collection of Portuguese and international contemporary art. The building of the Serralves Museum was designed by architect, Álvaro Siza, who was invited in the early 1990s to design a museum project that took into consideration the specific characteristics of the physical setting and the need for integration within the surrounding landscape. The architectural plans for the Serralves Museum were first drawn up in 1991 by the architect Alvaro Siza. The new building was finally inaugurated in 1999, harmoniously integrated within the surrounding urban area and the pre-existing spaces of the gardens of the Park and Villa. The exhibitions - normally three parallel exhibitions – are organized on a quarterly basis. Since the inauguration of the Museum building in 1999 a total of 4.6 million visitors -of all ages and from all parts of Portugal and the world - have visited the various spaces of the Foundation. These results position the Foundation in first place amongst Portuguese Museums and amongst Europe’s most highly visited contemporary art museums with similar characteristics. The Museum has exhibition rooms and store rooms for works of art, distributed across three floors. The upper floor is the location of the cafeteria/restaurant, esplanade and multi-purpose rooms, the entrance floor has exhibition rooms and a bookshop and the lower floor houses the library and auditorium. Access to these spaces is facilitated via a square-shaped atrium located next to the reception, complemented by a cloakroom and information area, in an area adjacent to the Museum entrance. The Museum building also has a workshops area and another area for activities of the Educational Service, together with complementary areas such as a shop and a large terrace overlooking the Park. As in most of Siza’s buildings, the furniture and fittings were also designed by the architect, including lighting fixtures, handrails, doorknobs, and signage. Materials include hardwood floors and painted walls in gesso with marble skirting in the exhibition halls, and marble floors in the foyers and wet spaces. Exterior walls are covered with stone or stucco:

    The Museum is surrounded by water canals:

    Casa de Serralves is a villa and museum located inside the park of Serralves. Owned by the Serralves Foundation, the house was built by the second Count of Vizela, Carlos Alberto Cabral and designed by the architect José Marques da Silva. It is a unique example of Streamline modern architecture in Portugal. Casa de Serralves - in addition to serving as the Foundation’s head office - is an important extension of the Museum of Contemporary Art, used for presentation of temporary exhibitions. Originally designed as a private residence, the Villa – which is a unique example of Art Deco architecture – and the Park – inspired by the modernists – were commissioned by the 2nd Count of Vizela, Carlos Alberto Cabral. With its façade overlooking the Rua de Serralves and the main entrance located in the Avenida Marechal Gomes da Costa, Casa de Serralves is a significant example of Art Deco style. The building was constructed on the outskirts of Porto between 1925 and 1944, combining neoclassical, romantic and art deco elements.

    "Aquário", work by Ana Vieira, in Casa Serralves:

    Casa de Serralves - the Chapel:

    The Rosaleda:

    Serralves Park spans 18 hectares and is constituted by a wide variety of magnificent, harmoniously interconnected spaces: formal gardens, woodlands, and a traditional farm. Designed by the architect Jacques Greber in the 1930s, it constitutes a singular reference within Portugal’s landscape heritage. A visit to the Park, via any of its circuits, involving different routes and durations, is a privileged opportunity to come into contact with nature and appreciate the wide diversity of trees and shrubs, constituted by roughly 200 species and a variety of ornamental exotic plants. In addition, the gardens and the park also constitute a museum setting: visitors to the park will encounter sculptures from the Serralves Collection that are permanently on display. The landscaped gardens designed by João Gomes da Silva, on the approximately 18 hectars of land, preserved the most important species already existing on the site. The new Serralves Park opened to the public in 1987, and was subject to a recovery and enhancement project initiated in 2001 and concluded in 2006. Currently on display in the park are sculptures by Claes Oldenburg, Dan Graham, Fernanda Gomes, Richard Serra, and Veit Stratmann.
    Claes Oldenburg, Plantoir:

    Naivy Baghramian, "Cold Shoulder":

    Aristido Maillol - The draped bather 1921:

    Gilberto Zorio - "The Porto Canoe":

    "Double Exposure" by Dan Graham:

    The lake in the Park:

    The Ginko Patio - Arboretum:

    The Park Fountain:

    View to the Park from the Museum:

    Jardim das Aromáticas:

    WE RETURN THE WHOLE WAY EAST TO CASA DA MUSICA (in case you booked a concert...) or to the Rotunda da Boavista / Praça de Mouzinho de Albuquerque square (our starting point).  It is a 3.2 km. (45 minutes) walk. There are no buses - since part of Boavista Avenue are under constructions works. We take the road Rua de Júlio Dinis to the south east. There are no least than 9 branching from Praça de Mouzinho de Albuquerque. Let us imagine the square to a clock. If Avenida da Boavista is in the 10 hour position (north-west) than Rua de Júlio Dinis is in the 5 hour. On your left is the Brasilia shopping centre (WC inside) and on your right (further after passing Largo Ferreira Lapa on your right) ) - the Vice-Rey hotel. Continue direct and cross Praca Galiza. On your left towers the Lusitania (insurance company) high building.
    Continue south along Rua de Júlio Dinis until its end - and you arrive to Jardins do Palácio de Cristal do Porto - Crystal Palace Gardens. Jardins do Palácio de Cristal do Porto - Crystal Palace Gardens - This beautifully landscaped park is dominated by a huge domed pavilion built in 1956 which replaced the 19th century iron-and-glass "Crystal Palace." Today's pavilion serves as a venue for concerts and sporting events. It is surrounded by a lake, flowerbeds, and roaming peacocks, all overlooking the Douro River, of which there are DIVINE, fantastic views. These romantic gardens were designed in the 1860s by German landscape architect Emile David, to engage the then Crystal Palace, replaced by Rosa Mota Pavilion in the 1950s. It opens at 8 a.m and closes at 9 p.m. (Summer) or at 7 p.m. (Winter). The entrance is free. There are public restrooms.

    The Lime Tree Avenue is the most striking axis of this Park and is flanked by Almeida Garrett Municipal Library (where the Gallery of the Palace is located), the acoustic shell and the Chapel of Charles Albert of Sardinia (built in 1849 by Princess Montléart). They are located near a restaurant and a terrace overlooking the lake. The building is not the most modern anymore and not-so-well kept. The pavillion is usually closed and has nothing interesting to it, besides its cool architecture:

    Avenida das Tilias:

    The Gardens of the Crystal Palace include the so-called Garden Emilio David with some beautiful specimens of rhododendrons, camellias, pines, beeches and Ginkos, beyond allegorical statues and fountains to the seasons:

    The themed gardens are also represented, including the Garden of Aromatic Plants, Garden of Medicinal, Garden Twin City (opened in 2009) and still the Garden of Feelings (opened in 2007), where the statue of Pain Teixeira Lopes . Other enjoyable spaces are the Forest (Bosque), the Avenue of Chestnut-of-India and the Garden of Rose Garden that is enriched with significant elements of the artistic heritage of the city. Nearby magnificent seven specimens of palm trees of California arise:

    Palmeiras das California:

    The chapel that Augusta, Princess of Carignano and later Montléart Princess built in honor of her brother, King Carlos Alberto:

    Everywhere, but, mainly, from the Feelings Garden (Jardim dos Sentimentos) there are strategic viewpoints that offer panoramic views of the Douro river and the city:

    Views from the Roses Garden (Jardim das Rosas):

    There are a few peacocks roaming into the Feelings and Roses Gardens:

    sculpture near the lookout terrace of the Cafe' (yellow house) in the lower level of the Gardens:

    We walk down to a lower level of the gardens where there are many ponds and typical Portuguese mosaics:

    Sorry ! the only exit from the Crystal Palace Gardens is from its north side. You ends up walking all the way back up to the top of the park, in order to drop back down to the Douro and walk to Ribeira or to the Centro Storico. You have to climb up and trace back the whole way to the main entrance (where you started your visit in the gardens...). From the main entrance head east (right) on Rua D. Manuel II, 88 m and turn right again onto Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira. Walk till the end of Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira and turn LEFT (EAST) to Rua da Restauração. Here it is quite along (and boring) walk along this street until you approach the historical centre of Porto. In the end of Rua da Restauração (cross-lights) turn RIGHT (south) to Campo dos Mártires da Pátria. On your left a park (Jardim da Cordoaria) and on your right the SECRETARIA GERAL DAS VARAS E JUÍZOS CÍVEIS DO PORTO (Palace of Justice):

    Here, our daily route converges to another Porto Itinerary: "Historic Centre of Porto - World Heritage Site". We bend left (north-east) along Rua Campo dos Mártires da Pátria and continue in Rua Senhor Filipe de Nery to hit the Torre dos Clerigos. From here, it is 5 minutes walk to Sao Beneto Metro station. Head southeast on R. das Carmelitas toward R. Arquitecto Nicolau Nazoni, 30 m. Slight left onto Rua dos Clérigos, 110 m
    Continue onto Praça da Liberdade, 120 m. Turn right onto Praça Almeida Garrett, 100 m.

  • Citywalk
    Updated at Apr 29,2015

    Bratislava Old Town - from the NEW Slovak National Theatre to Michael's Gate and Tower.

    Attractions: Námestie (square) M. R. Štefánika, Eurovea centre and Promenade, New Slovak National Theater, Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra, Hviezdoslavovo námestie, The Historical Slovak National Theatre, Ganymede's Fountain, Rybné námestie (Fisheries square), Esterhazy palace (Esterházyho palác), National Gallery (Slovenská národná galéria), Michalská brána (Michael's Gate and Tower).

    Start: Námestie M. R. Štefánika (square).

    End:  Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra  (square) or Michael's Gate and Tower.

    Distance: 5-6 km. Combine this route with the "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" itinerary.

    Duration: 1/2 day.

    Connection with the "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" itinerary: we ended our former route in the Zámočnícka ulica, 50 m. from Michalská brána (Michael's Gate and Tower). So, we start our connection in the Michalská brána (Michael's Arch) - Michalská road. This route ends, as well, in Michael's Arch.

    Head north on Michalská toward Hurbanovo námestie, 30 m.  Michalská turns right and becomes Hurbanovo námestie, 75 m. Take the crosswalk, 50 m. Continue onto Námestie SNP (youv'e, already, been here in the first walk...), 350 m. Turn right to stay on Námestie SNP, 80 m. Take the crosswalk, 400 m. Turn right onto Klemensova, 400 m. Continue onto Krupkova, 130 m. Turn left onto Pribinova, 250 m.  Turn right to stay on Pribinova, and M. R. Štefánika square is on the right, 55 m.
    Námestie (square) M. R. Štefánika or Námestie Milana Rastiaslava Štefánika is bordered on the north side of the new building of the Slovak National Theatre (see below),

    on the western side Eurovea Galleria shopping center and five-star Sheraton Bratislava,

    on the east side New shopping centers and apartments River places,

    South side of the square is lined with the Danube waterside promenade.

    MR Štefánika Square is actually part of the modern district Eurovea , which is located right on the bank of the Danube in the vicinity of the historical center of Bratislava. The name of the square was originally Theatre Square. Definitely pay a visit and check out the beautiful pedestrian walkway along the Danube river. Our direction is from the east to the west (heading, next, to the Hviezdoslavovo námestie) - so, on our way we walk along the promenade:

    Most of the statues that Bratislava has become quite famous for can be found near the Main square (see the blog "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1"). But, there are also some private statues in front of and inside the Eurovea shopping center and promenade. Go there if you have some spare time to walk along the Danube and the long venue with restaurants and bars. Recommended !:

    Sculptures by Colin Spofforth:

    "Human" sculpture:

    The number of fountains in Bratislava is comparable to the four times larger neighboring Austrian capital Vienna. A few of them are around the Štefánika Square and the Eurovea complexes. Very interesting is the fact, that shopping mall is also under the ground and the main fountain is built on it's transparent roof:

    On the south side of the square, on the Danube River, stands a a bronze statue of General Milan Rastislav Stefanik (Vice-Chairman of the Czecho-Slovakian National Council and the first minister of war of Czechoslovakia), created by a Czech sculptor Bohumil Kafka. The huge (7.4 m) bronze statue of Štefánik is behind a high pylon with the bronze lion holding the coat of arms of Czechoslovakia. On the pylon is a bronze reproduction of the Czechoslovak Declaration of Independence of 30 May 1918:

    Arcadia Hotel - Eurovea Shopping Mall:

    New Slovak National Theater, Pribinova 17 is situated near the banks of river Danube near Eurovea Shopping Mall. The NEW building of Slovak National Theatre provides space for drama, opera, concerts and other cultural events. The large modern theatre building,  near the Danube, was opened on 14 April 2007. The fountain in front, was designed by Alexander Biľkovič, Iľja Skoček and Peter Bauer:

    It is a 1.5 km. walk to our next destination - another famous square - Hviezdoslavovo námestie. Head west toward Olejkárska, 120 m. Continue onto Pribinova, 350 m. Continue onto Dostojevského rad, 45 m. Continue onto Šafárikovo námestie, 20 m. Note the Park and the Fountain (Duck Fountain, Kačacia fontána, 1914, Robert Kuhmayer). Note also the fairy-tale pink buildings in the square (Art- Nouveau apartment building built after 1904):

    Continue onto Vajanského nábrežie, 450 m. Continue onto Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra, 55 m. Ľudovít Štúr (1815 - 1856) was the author of the Slovak language standard language. Note the monument with a bronze sculpture with a statue of Štúr with several figures behind him. Sculptor: Tibor Bártfay, a Slovak sculptor. Note: we'll return to this square in the end of this route:

    Continue onto Rázusovo nábrežie, 150 m. Turn right onto Riečna, 80 m. Turn left toward Hviezdoslavovo námestie. Hviezdoslavovo námestie is the biggest square in Bratislava down town. Is very popular place for the foreign and also domestic tourists and local residents of Bratislava. Beautiful place with statues, elaborate, ornamental water fountains and cafes. The people can find here a wealth of very good restaurants (many of them a bit overpriced !), the best ice cream and many seasonal festivals including new year markets. There are a lot of sitting places for chilling. It is tree lined which provides shade in the summer and leaves all over the place in Autumn. This is a very nice alongated square with a long pedestrian-only paths/roads. There are several embassies along the square. kill, here, an hour or two ! The square underwent major reconstruction at the end of the 20th century. Before reconstruction, it looked like a small city park; now it looks like a city promenade. On February 24, 2005 US President George W. Bush gave a public speech in Hviezdoslav Square during his visit to Bratislava for the Slovakia Summit 2005 with the president of Russia Vladimir Putin:

    The Historical Slovak National Theatre (Historická budova SND, Slovenské národné divadlo), Jesenského 811 stands in the EASTERN edge of the square. It has 3 ensembles (drama, opera and ballet). It was founded in 1920 after the creation of Czechoslovakia as a cooperative and became a state-run company in 1945. Between 1920 and 1945, there was also a musical ensemble. The Slovak National Theatre has represented Slovak culture on its numerous tours abroad. It was created and, in the 1920s, also run by Czech artists and its 3 ensembles (ballet, drama and opera) were Slovakized only gradually. Since 2007, the ensembles perform only at the old Slovak National Theatre building and the new Slovak National Theatre building opened in April, 2007.  The Neo-Renaissance building was built in 1885–1886 during the time of Austria-Hungary. It was opened as the City Theatre on September 22, 1886. Today only the opera and ballet ensembles are resident in the old building. 

    Bratislava native sculptor Victor Tilgner crafted the famous Ganymede's Fountain (Ganymédova fontána) in 1888, now located immediately in front of the theatre. This is the first decorative fountain in Bratislava from 1888. It is also the first one to be fed filtered water from the Danube. It was inspired by the mythological Ganymede (Greek Myth) combined with the depictions of species common in the local part of the Danube: frogs, turtles and various fish:

    Close to the theatre is the larger-than-life-sized statue of Hviezdoslav. Pavol Országh de Felsőkubin Hviezdoslav (February 2, 1849 - November 8, 1921) was a Slovak poet, dramatist, translator and for a short time member of the Czechoslovak parliament:

     In the south-west edge of the Hviezdoslav square (opposite the El gaucho restaurant - see our "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" blog) there is a statue of famous fairy tale author Hans Christian Andersen. About Bratislava he said: "If you want a fairy tale, your city should be a fairy tale itself". After his visit in Bratislava he produced some of his masterpieces such as The Little Match Girl:

    Dievca (Maiden) Fountain: the tender-hearted Girl with a deer in front of Hans Christian Andersen sculpture on Hviezdoslavovo Square in Bratislava:

    On the southern side are the Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel,

    as well as the German and American embassies:

    We leave the Hviezdoslav square from its south-west exit/entry. 40 m. further south is the Rybné námestie (Fisheries square). It is situated at the most western edge of the historic zone of Bratislava. Rybné námestie is a space which is bordered on the east by the Hviezdoslavovo Square, in the south is the Danube embankment, in the west there is a rising ramp of the SNP Bridge; the northern boundary is the western wall of the house, which houses the International House of Art for Children Bibiana. This square was significantly affected by the construction of today's SNP Bridge in 70's of the 20th century.

    The Plague Column, in this square,  was built in 1713 as a reminder of plague:

    On Rybné námestie square near St. Martin’s cathedral there used to be a
    neological synagogue (Dionýz Milch, 1894), a stunning, oriental-looking building tiled by coloured glazed bricks. It was demolished in 1967. The Memorial of demolished synagogue in Bratislava Rybné námestie square was described in the "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" blog.

    Also, in the Rybné námestie, Hotel Park Inn:

    The Rybné námestie is adjacent to the St. Martin Cathedral (see "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" blog):

    a short detour: if you head south on Rybné námestie toward Rázusovo nábrežie, 30 m. and turn right onto Rázusovo nábrežie, 25 m, turn left toward Nábrežie armádneho generála Ludvíka Svobodu, 15 m. and turn right onto Nábrežie armádneho generála Ludvíka Svobodu for 600 m. - you arrive to the floating hotel Botel Marina and Krishna Restaurant:

    From Rybné námestie we head south on Rybné námestie toward Rázusovo nábrežie, 30 m. We turn left onto Rázusovo nábrežie, 350 m., slight left onto Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra, 15 m. On your left is the Esterhazy palace (Esterházyho palác) with the National Gallery (Slovenská národná galéria). The Slovak National Gallery (SNG) is defined as the supreme and central gallery institution of Slovakia. The building looks a bit run-down (an old palace disfigured by communist architecture). The main part of the gallery might be closed due to the reconstruction. Although the exhibitions are small in size, lovers of art can find them interesting. Monday: Closed. Open: TUE - SUN: 10.00 – 18.00, THU: 12.00  – 20.00. The Gallery is Closed on: Easter, 1 November – All Saints' Day, 24 - 26 December – Christmas. Entry Price: In 2015, free - free admission ! (it is under renovation):

    Here, you find, also, the Malecon -  a High-end bar, with the best latino atmosphere and a  restaurant with top notch staff and service. Usually you find the "creme de la creme" hanging out at Malecon.

    We return to Michael's Gate and Tower (see "Bratislava Old Town (Starý Mesto) Centre Walk 1" blog)  with a 700 m. walk. From Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra head west 15 m. Turn right to stay on Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra, 20 m. Continue onto Mostová, 190 m. Turn right onto Jesenského, 20 m. Turn left onto Hviezdoslavovo námestie, 50 m.  Continue onto Rybárska brána, 120 m. Continue straight onto Hlavné námestie, 50 m. Continue onto Sedlárska, 100 m. Turn right onto Michalská, 150 m. and the Michalská brána is on your right. The late afternoon or evening hours are the best to explore Michael's Gate surroundings. Sandstone Baroque sculpture of St. John of Nepomuk at the NORTH side of the Michael's Gate is probably the work of Louis Gode (d. 1750). The sculpture was restored by sculptors Andrej miners and Ladislav Chamuty:

    Stand on the balcony/bridge near the statues and look downstairs. There is a nice garden with an orchestra or musical group (usually, during the weekends). Splendidg atmosphere ! If you are lucky - you'll experience Balkan music with instruments like: Mandolins and Balalaikas.

  • Citywalk | Russian Federation
    Updated at Oct 14,2015

    Tip 4: From Bolshaya Konyushennaya to the Summer Palace:

    From the Market Place Restaurant (Nevsky Prospekt #24) (3 minutes walk west from the Nevsky Prospekt Metro station) - we head west on Nevsky Prospekt, 110 m. Then, we turn right onto Bolshaya Konyushennaya ulitsa (ул. Большая Конюшенная). The avenue is located between Konyushennaya Square and Nevsky Prospect. It was laid out in the early 1730s from the Court Stable (in Russian, Konyushenny) Yard buildings. This side street of Nevsky Prospekt, for its part, was constructed in the 1730s and 1740s near the heart of the power centre of St. Petersburg, the Winter Palace, but also deliberately as the centre for foreign congregations. Thus it came to embrace the
    Lutheran churches of that day, the Finnish and Swedish churches (on Malaya Konyushennaya) being amongst them. During the 1880s and 1890s the Bolshaya Konyushennaya underwent a sudden change, a building process of five-storey high stone houses, giving the street an impressive neo-Renaissance and national romantic appearance. Bolshaya Konyushennaya did not enclose any park, but it was also later to get a small boulevard of trees in the middle. After its hectic
    building period it also housed a department store. Bolshaya Konyushennaya gained, more and more - a Scandinavian (or, at least, multi-cultural) character. Around 1900 some 10% of the population of St Petersburg was Lutheran. The Lutheran group included Germans, Dutch, Swedes, Danes, Norwegians and Finns. The Swedish congregation consisted of 5,200 members before the First World War and
    the Finnish Church had over 17,000 members. At most St Petersburg housed 24,000 Finns, which meant that St Petersburg in 1880 was the second biggest “Finnish” city. Most of them lived in this area of SPB.During the years 1918 - 1991 the street was called Zhelyabova Street, in memory of А. I. Zhelyabov). The avenue is full with history and historical buildings. It includes the Finnish Lutheran Church (house No 6а),

    N. A. Meltzer's apartment house (house No 19/8. 1904-05, architect F. I. Lidval), the Gvardeysky Economic Society House of Commerce (house No 21-23, today DLT Trade Company),

    and the French Reformed Church of St. Paul (house No 25, 1770-73, architect U. M. Velten, rebuilt in 1858, architect Y. O. Dutel). In the 1730s, the cabinet-minister A. P. Volynsky's mansion (Nos 21-23) stretched all the way to the Moika River. House No 27 was part of the Demut Hotel complex (see Demutov Inn), housing the Medved Restaurant (1878-1929), and a variety theatre (from 1938) where the famous Soviet stand up comedian A. I. Raykin performed for quite some time.

    From the 1930s, the French Church building accommodated the City M. I. Chigorin Chess Club. In the 1850-60s, I. S. Turgenev lived in house No 13; in 1889-93, N. A. Rimsky-Korsakov lived in house No 11, А. А. Rylov in house No 19, and architect N. A. Trotsky in house No 15. Nowadays, the avenue image is a bit different: the whole length of the ostentatious boulevard Bolshaya   Ulitsa is seamed with international luxury labels like Louis Vuitton, Omega, Christian Louboutin, Dior, and Brunello Cucinelli. Just stroll on, even if your budget can only manage window shopping. It’ll still be fun:

    We recommend walking approx. 550 - 600 m. NORTHWARD along Konyushennaya (until Konyushennaya Square) and back, SOUTHWARD on the other side of this avenue. Returning back to Nevsky Prospekt, we turn RIGHT (west) to this famous street and walk 150 m. until we arrive to the Moyka river. Cross the river along Nevsky Prospekt over the Green Bridge and cross the Nevsky Prospekt avenue from its northern side to the southern side, walking onto nab. Reki Moyki on the EASTERN bank of the Moyka river - when Stroganov Palace and the Moyka river are on your LEFT (east) and the river on your RIGHT (west):

    A bit further southward, still, on our left - the Kazan Cathedral gardens. Walk approx. 400 m. down (southward) along the Moyka river until you arrive to the Red Bridge (Кра́сный мост, Krasniy most). The bridge's name dates from a 19th-century tradition of color-coding the bridges crossing the Moika River. Like other colored bridges, the Red Bridge got its name from the colour of its sides facing the river. Today only four colored bridges survive, the other ones being the Blue Bridge, the Green Bridge and the Yellow Bridge respectively. Three of them have kept their original names, but Yellow Bridge has been renamed to Pevchesky Bridge. The Red Bridge is, actually, a part of Gorokhovaya Street. The length of the bridge is 42 m., the width is 16.8 m. The first cast iron bridge on the site was built in 1808-1813. The bridge was rebuilt in 1953 by architect V.V. Blazhevich. In the same year four small obelisks topped with small bronze spheres were added to the bridge's granite piers. Also, the original cast iron structure of the bridge was replaced by the welded steel arches but most of the decorations are still left intact:

    We cross the Red Bridge and move from the east bank of Moyka river to its west side, continuing north-west up along Gorokhovaya street. Walk along Gorokhovaya 140 m.

    (at the end of this road - you can see, clearly, the famous top of the Admirality building. 

    We turn right (north-east) to Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa. Bolshaya Morskaya Street (Grand Sea Street) is located from the General Staff Arch to Kryukov Canal and full with period building, still, with the past glamor.We shall walk the whole Morskaya street from the Gorokhovaya intersection until its end in the Winter Palace Square (approx. 500 m.). The direction of our walk is from south-east (later, south) to north.

    The street was constructed in the early 18th century, in Morskaya settlement (hence the name). After fires of 1736-37, the main part of the street from Nevsky Prospect towards St. Isaac's Square was called Bolshaya Gostinaya (Gostinnaya) Street due to the project of Gostiny Dvor construction (has not been implemented). In 1755-67, the street between Nevsky Prospect and Kirpichny Lane was blocked up with the temporary wooden Winter Palace. In 1902, on account of Morskaya Malaya Street renamed Gogolya Street, the whole street was referred to as Morskaya. Always one of St. Pe
    tersburg’s most fashionable streets, shady Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa is the choice of the artistic elite to this day. It has some exceedingly handsome 19th - century mansions hidden away, especially, between St Isaac’s Square and Pochtamtskiy most.

    Interesting buildings right (east) or close to to Gorokhovaya street / Bolshaya Morskaya Street intersection:

    Alexander Pushkin lived in Building 26 in 1832.

    Building 24 belonged to Faberge firm (1899), today it houses Yakhont Jeweller's. Peter Carl Fabergé, (Карл Густавович Фаберже Karl Gustavovich Faberzhe, (30 May 1846 – 24 September 1920), was a Russian jeweller, best known for the famous Fabergé eggs, made in the style of genuine Easter eggs, but using precious metals and gemstones. In 1885, Tsar Alexander III gave the House of Fabergé the title; ‘Goldsmith by special appointment to the Imperial Crown’. The Tsar also commissioned the company to make an Easter egg as a gift for his wife, the Empress Maria. The Tsar placed an order for another egg the following year. Beginning in 1887, the Tsar apparently gave Carl Fabergé complete freedom with regard to egg designs, which then became more and more elaborate. The next Tsar, Nicholas II, ordered two eggs each year, one for his mother and one for his wife, Alexandra. The tradition continued until the October Revolution. Although the House of Fabergé is famed for its Imperial Easter eggs, it made many more objects ranging from silver tableware to fine jewelry. Fabergé’s company became the largest jewellery business in Russia. In addition to its Saint Petersburg headquarters, it had branches in Moscow, Odessa, Kiev and London. It produced some 150,000 to 200,000 objects from 1882 until 1917. The Company was located at Bolshaya Morskaya Street; before 1854 at No.11; in 1854-1900 at No.16; and from 1900 – now at No. 24 (House of Faberge);

    Building 18 was being built in the 1910s for Russian Bank for Foreign Commerce (architect L.N. Benois and Lidval), complete in the 1930s (architects L.V. Rudnev, Y.O. Svirsky) for the Textile Institute (today Technology and Design University):

    Building 15 is the former Russian Commercial and Industrial Bank (1912-14, architect M.M. Peretyatkovich):

    Building 14 was owned by the wealthy Eliseevs brothers since the middle of the 19th century.

    Building 12 is the former house of Kotomin.

    Building 11 was the private house of architect P.P. Jacot (1830s). The Teremok restaurant resides in this building.

    Building # 6:

    Buildings 3-5 are the former building of the Azovsko-Donskoy Bank (1908-13, architect F.I. Lidval).

    Interesting buildings left (west) to Gorokhovaya street / Bolshaya Morskaya Street intersection:

    Building 67 - the former Officers' Corps of Horse Guards Regiment (1844-49, architect I.D. Chernik. Today: University of Aerospace Instrumentation):

    Building 58 is the German Reformed Church.

    Building 52 belonged to the Polovtsovs. Today - the House of Architect.

    Building 47 belonged to the Nabokov Family (1898-1902, architects F.M. Geissler, V.F. Guslisty, today it houses the Museum of V.V. Nabokov):

    the Demidov Mansion (No. 43) was reconstructed 1835-1840 by Auguste de Montferrand, architect of St. Isaac's Cathedral. The building is of interest not only for its rather comically posed atlantes (see picture below), but also because the richly decorated interiors included a Malachite Room several years before the idea was adopted in the Winter Palace. The better-preserved house next door (No. 45) dates back to the 1740s, and was also reconstructed by Montferrand, who sold it to the Demidov family in 1836. It later belonged to Countess Vera Gagarina, who employed Maximilian Messmacher to design interiors for some of the rooms. The building is now the House of Composers, and some of Messmacher's and Montferrand's original interiors can still be seen when visiting concerts there:

    Buildings 42 and 44 were occupied by Ministry of State Property (1844-53, architect N.E. Efimov; today: the Genetics Institute and Plant Cultivation Institute).

    Building 41 - the house of German Embassy:

    Hotel Astoria, # 39:

    Buildings 35 (1907, architects A.A. Gimpel, V.V. Ilyashev) and 37 (1898, architects L.N. Benois, S.Y. Levi) were owned by Russia insurance society:

    Building 61, overlooking the Moyka river,  was the mansion of M.V. Lomonosov (1750-60s, reconstructed in the 1840s by architect A.K. Cavos):

    We  walked 500 m. along Bolshaya Morskaya Street  (crossing Nevsky Prospekt - 150 m. before  arriving to the Arch of the General Staff Building , which centers on a double triumphal arch crowned with a Roman quadriga (1819–29), leading off Palace Square (see: "St. Petersburg - from Grand Choral Synagogue to the Palace Square" blog):

    Allow 20-30 minutes for strolling again in the Place Square (see "St. Petersburg - from Grand Choral Synagogue to the Palace Square" blog). Exit the square in its eastern end and slight left onto nab. Reki Moyki (наб. реки Мойки), 65 m. (short section along the Moyka river). Then, turn left onto the Winter Canal or Naberezhnaya Zimney Kanavki (наб. Зимней канавки), 160 m. Please walk along the LEFT (west) side of the canal. With your back to the Palace Square and  to the Moyka river and your face to the north (Neva river) - take the left, narrow road along the dark Winter Canal or Zimnaya Canal. The Winter Canal starts, in the south, between the eastern side of the Hermitage complex and the Hermitage Theatre. The narrow canal connects Neva river and Embankment (promenade) with Moika River in the vicinity of Winter Palace. The canal was dug in 1718–1719. Its length is only 228m, which makes it one of the shortest canals in the city. The width is about 20m. The granite embankment was built in 1782–84, and railings designed by sculptor I.F.Dunker were added at the same time. The special picturesqueness to the canal is added by the arch connecting Old Hermitage and Hermitage Theater, built by architect Yury Felten next to the Hermitage Bridge. There are, totally, three bridges across Winter Canal (from south to north): Second Winter Bridge on the Moika River Embankment, the First Winter Bridge (on Milionnaya Street) and the Hermitage Bridge (on the Palace Embankment):

    Winter Canal or Zimnaya Canal or nab. Zimney kanavki (наб. Зимней канавки). We saw there preparations for Russian - BBC co-production of future TV movie:

    The Winter canal from north to south. View from the Palace Embankment:

    It is a 1.2 km. walk along the Neva river or the Palace Embankment ( наб. Дворцовая) from west to east (from the Winter Canal - turn right, east) - to the Summer Garden, Kutuzov embankment, 2:

    Your walk should be pleasant if the weather allows. It might be windy (you can, take an alternative way eastward - along the Millionnaya street. On your right, along the Palace Embankment - are gorgeous palaces and mansions:

    The Palace Embankment or Dvortsovaya Naberezhnaya (Дворцовая набережная) begins at the Palace Bridge, where the Admiralty Embankment becomes the Palace Embankment, and the street ends at the Fontanka, where it becomes the Kutuzov Embankment. The Palace Embankment is a very popular street among tourists, as it has a wonderful view of the Neva, the Peter and Paul Fortress and Vasilievsky Island. Many sightseeing boats are available for hire there. On our way to the Summer Garden we pass through the following places and attractions:

    Marble Palace, (Мраморный дворец), Palace Embankment # 76 or 5/1 Millionnaya Street. The palace takes its name from its opulent decoration in a wide variety of polychrome marbles. The stone decorations of the Marble Room strike with their many colours, smartness and opulence, their perfectly worked marble, selected and arranged with impeccable style. The palace was built by Count Grigory Orlov, an advisor and lover of Empress Catherine the Great and the most powerful Russian nobleman of the 1760s. Construction started in 1768 to designs by Antonio Rinaldi. In 1843, Grand Duke Constantine Nikolayevich decided to redecorate the edifice, renaming it Constantine Palace and engaging Alexander Brullov as the architect. An adjacent church and other outbuildings were completely rebuilt, while the interior of the palace was refurbished in keeping with the eclectic tastes of its new owner. Only the main staircase and the Marble Hall survived that refacing and still retain the refined stucco work and elaborate marble pattern of Rinaldi's original decor. In January of 1992, the Palace was handed over to the State Russian Museum, which marked the beginning of a new period in its history. In 1994, the permanent exhibition Ludwig Museum in the Russian Museum was opened in the Palace. This exhibition is based on the collection donated to the Russian Museum by the famous German collectors Peter and Irene Ludwig. The collection contains works by contemporary European, Russian and American artists. This exhibition is being continuously expanded with new acquisitions and donations. In 2001, the White (or Gothic) Room was opened after having been restored. The room is equipped with the modern high-technology equipment for conferences, symposiums and teleconference bridges. Opening hours: MON, WED, FRI - SUN: 10. 00  - 18.00, THU - 13.00 - 21.00. The Museum is closed on Tuesdays:

    Vladimir Palace  (Vladimirsky dvoretsor, Влади́мирский дворе́ц) or Palace of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich, Dvortsovaya naberezhnaya, 26 was built between 1867 and 1872 for the third son of Emperor Alexander II. Just east of the Winter Palace and the Hermitage on Dvortsovaya Naberezhnaya ("Palace Embankment"), the Vladimir Palace was designed by a team of architects lead by Vasily Kenel. The palace's simple, somewhat dour facade is in stark contrast to the wonderfully preserved interiors, where the architects employed a hugely eclectic range of styles and periods, from neo-gothic to rococo to oriental. Guided tours of the Vladimir Palace are available daily except Sundays. Call in advance:

    The Golden Staircase inside:

    The Persian room:

    Bust of Grand Duke Vladimir:

    On our way along the Neva river, we also pass through (on our left) the Troitsky Bridge over the Neva river:

    At last we arrive to the Summer Garden on your right. We enter the garden through its northern entrance. Skip to Tip 5.

  • Citywalk
    Updated at Aug 29,2016

    Main Attractions: Lamb & Flag Pub, Museum of Natural History & Pitt-Rivers Museum, Oxford University Parks, Wadham College, New College, Covered Market, Exeter College.

    Start and End: Ashmolean Museum - City Centre. Circular Route discovering several green areas ans sites connected with nature. Distance: 3-4 km. Duration: 1 day. Weather: ideal route for days with rain in the 1st half of the day. Distance: 4 km.

    Leave the museum by the main entrance.  Head east on Beaumont St. toward St Giles. At the traffic lights you need to go straight
    across to the opposite side of St Giles. Use the pedestrian crossings and take care. Once on the opposite side, turn left up (north) St. Giles. Outside the main entrance to St John’s College there is a raised area under several plane trees. The St John's college – is named after St. John the Baptist. The plane trees line this wide road (claimed to be the widest in the UK). The plane tree is very tolerant of urban pollution which is why it is found throughout central London and other cities in temperate regions.

    Walk 160 m. north and turn right to the Lamb & Flag Passage. On your right is the Lamb & Flag Pub. The lamb (in the pub's name) represents the lambs which were highly-valued possessions in ancient, Biblical Judaism and were sacrificed to God in order to request forgiveness
    of sins. The lamb and flag had therefore become the symbol of St John the Baptist. The Lamb and Flag was also the symbol of one of the orders of knights or crusaders - the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. This order of knights was formed after the capture of Jerusalem in 1099. The order
    provided hospitals and shelter for pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land, took care of knights who had been injured or were suffering from diseases and had military units who fought in almost every battle of the Crusades. St John's College took over the management of this pub in 1997, and now uses all pub profits to fund scholarships for graduate students. It is believed that Thomas Hardy wrote much of his novel Jude the Obscure in this pub. The pub also featured in the British TV detective drama series 'Inspector Morse'. Note the chestnut tree - immediately behind the pub, along Lamb & Flag Passage. The pub is recommended for its Beers:

    Lamb & Flag Passage continues as the Museum Road. Cross the Parks Road (at the crosswalk), turn left - and on your right is the entrance to the  Museum of Natural History & Pitt-Rivers Museum. These are two different museums in one visit. The entrance to the Pitt Rivers Museum is through the Oxford University Museum Natural History (OUMNH) on Parks Road. Visitors need to walk across the ground floor of the OUMNH to reach Pitt Rivers displays. Open: OUMNH - daily, 10.00 - 17.00, FREE. Pitt Rivers Museum: MON 12.00 (!!!) - 16.3, TUE-SUN 10.00 - 16.30 (annoyingly closings 30 minutes before the Natural History Museum), FREE. The two museums are located in an elongated Victorian Gothic building. The building itself is a gem. The Museum of Natural History houses the Oxford University's zoology, entomology, palaeontology, and mineral collections. It is a great learning experience for children and adults alike!  The OUMNH is recommend especially if you have children with lots of activities provided to keep them interested.  The exhibitions are well laid out and provide great opportunity to see and touch sciences.

    The Pitt Rivers Museum, its counterpart next door, holds one of the world’s finest collections of anthropology and archaeology from all the continents and from throughout human history. Both of the museums are fully wheelchair accessible and child friendly. Make sure that you have plenty of time (at least 3 hours) to see the contents of both of the museums. Loads to see for both adults and children - but, I am afraid, children might be bored with the Pitt Rivers Museum. Both museums are ideal for wet days.

    In front of the OUMNH stands a memorial stone column commemorating the 'Great Debate', in Oxford, on 30 June 1860, seven months after the publication of Charles Darwin's On the Origin of Species, between the Bishop of Oxford, Samuel Wilberforce, and the biologist, Thomas Huxley. They debated Darwin’s idea of evolution and natural selection in front of a vocal crowd of 500 people. Darwin’s idea of evolution went against the commonly-held view that God was in control of creation. Even today, 156 years later the debate between evolution and creation continues. You can also find a statue of Darwin inside the museum:

    The main atrium of OUMNH is spectacular. Its main attraction are several dinosaur skeletons in the centre and is surrounded by cabinets full of curious artifacts (fossils, minerals, insects and animals) and packed with information. There is a balcony all around the central atrium that has more items of interest and also a small cafe. Note: It can get a bit hot inside during sunny days, due to the glass roof.

    Edmontosaurus annectens, Dinosaur, S. Dakota:

    Tyrannosaurus rex:


    Giant Tortoise:

    Granite - 2,700,00,000 years old:

    Humpback Whale Skull:

    OUMNH 2nd floor. The Museum's striking glass and iron roof, soaring above the specimens, is a source of fascination to visitors:

    Wandering Albatross - a legendary bird:

    The remains of the Dodo at Oxford are one of the greatest treasures of the Museum:

    Life cycle of Nezara Viridula:



    Temporary exhibition: Upper East Gallery, from 18 March to 29 September 2016. Kurt Jackson: Bees (and the odd wasp) in my Bonnet. This exhibition brings together paintings, sculpture and Museum collections to explore the diverse and beautiful world of bees. Kurt Jackson's art is a celebration of the natural world. Recently he has been inspired by the bees he encounters at home in Cornwall and across the UK. Apis, Kurt Jackson, 2015:

    Through the back of the hall is the Pitt Rivers Museum which is full of glass cabinets bursting and packed with curiosities from around the world that were,  first, collected by the Lt. Pitt Rivers and extended after his donation of his private collection. OUMNH is nature, Pitt Rivers is Anthropological.

    'Human Form in Art' Gallery. PRM dedicates an extensive gallery to Figurative Art. For thousands of years, the form and meaning of body decoration has been an expression of a particular culture – for aesthetic reasons, to identify kinship groups, for performance or for ceremony. Note: the lighting is a bit dim, even dark sometimes, but once you become used to it, it does rather add to the mysterious atmosphere. A bit tough to walk through and around the huge glass cabinets and observe in the darkness. The fact that the Pitt Rivers Museum is still laid out in its original Victorian pattern makes the museum an exhibit in itself and adds to its charm. The various collections are arranged by function or theme (food, clothes, toys, weaponry, medicine, religion) rather than geographically.

    Hindu deity: Janrath (right), his Sister, Sibhadra (centre), his brother Balabhadra (left), Orissa, India:

    Dance Mask - Papua New Guinea:

    Plaited raffia mat with Lizard design, Cameroon:

    11 metres Haida Gwii Totem Pole, Canada, Queen Charlotte Islands:

    The shrunken heads:

    A bottle with a witch:

    Exiting the couple of the museums - we turn right (north) and walk 200 m. along Parks Rd. On our left (west) is Keble College (under massive constructions). Keble is one of the larger colleges of the University of Oxford. Keble College was established in 1870, having been built as a monument to John Keble - an English churchman and poet, one of the leaders of the Oxford Movement (a movement, which argued for the reinstatement of some older Christian traditions of faith and their inclusion into Anglican theology). The main building of Keble College is the distinctive brick complex in Parks Rd. - designed by Butterfield:

    After 200 m. we turn right and enter the Oxford University Parks. The University Parks are bordered in the east by River Cherwell, in the nort side by Norham Gardens, by the north-east with a small plot of land (Mesopotamia) sitting between the upper and lower levels of the river. Parks Road to the west and with the Science Area on South Parks Road to the south. The quite extensive space was originally owned by Merton College, was purchased by the University in the 1850s and was first laid out as a Park for sports and recreational purposes in 1864 - first, for university members and, later, for the public. The park is open to the public almost every day of the year from 07.45 until dusk (the only exception being Christmas Eve) and boasts a choice of walks, a large collection of trees and plants and space for sports and picnics:

    Clifford Circus was stationed in the western entrance during June 2016:

    Since, we entered the parks from the Parks Rd. - we start with the West Walk section of the parks. The west, north and Lucas sections contain, mainly, flowering perennial shrubs and distinctive, impressive trees. Diverse specimens of trees display gorgeous golden, purple, grey and green colours of foliage. There are also many many brightly coloured flowers. A must visit place for nature lovers. An absolute pastoral heaven. Note: you are not allowed to enter with a bike !! No cycling !! ALLOW, at least, TWO HOURS FOR WALKING AROUND THE PARKS: West Walk, North Walk, Riverside Walk, Lucas Walk and South Walk. Note: after completing the riverside (eastern side) walk - you arrive to a T junction. Take the RIGHT leg - leading to Lucas Walk and the southern section of the walk.

    West and North Walks:

    Cedars in the West Walk :

    You find the Giant Sequoias (Wellingtonias) (which were very fashionable in the Victorian period) in the meeting point of the West and North Walks:

    The North Walk is characterized with numerous types of local and overseas trees: Aleppo Pine, American Smoke Tree, HimaItalian Maple, Oriental Plane, Serbian Spruce, Turkish hazel, Valonia Oak,

    North Lodge of the University Parks:

    The North Walk is characterized with numerous types of local and

    Pond with Ducks:

    Most of the Parks area is along (east to) the Cherwell river. South to the cement bridge - there is a grassland area which lies between two branches of the Cherwell river. It is known as 'Mesopotamia' after the area between the Euphrates and Tigris rivers - the cradle of human civilization. 

    Riverside Walk (along river Cherwell:

    Leave the Parks at South Lodge and turn right and walk WEST along South Park Rd crossing: St. Cross Rd., Sherard Rd.,(on your left the Plants Science buildings with green windows and, later, on your left the Chemistry buildings), Mansfield Rd. On your left also the Rhodes Building - a green-domed building. Built in memory of Cecil Rhodes, an alumnus of the university and founder of De Beers diamond Company in South Africa. In 1931, Albert Einstein delivered a series of three lectures at Rhodes House:

    Arriving to the cross-lights - turn LEFT (south) to Parks Rd. After 70 m. walk in Parks Rd. yous see, on your left, the Wadham College. In term time the Wadham College is open to visitors from 13.00 to 16.15. Out of term the college is open from 10.30 to 11.45 and 13.00 to 16.15. FREE. Only the Front Quad, Fellows' Garden and the Chapel are open to the public. Wadham College was founded in 1610 by Dorothy Wadham, according to the will of her late husband Nicholas Wadham, a member of an ancient Somerset family.

    Statues of the founders (Dorothy and Nicholas Wadham) above the main entrance to the College:

    The Main Hall:

    The gorgeous Wadham College Chapel:

    Holywell Quad:

    Back Quad with its cute buildings around:

    Continuing south along parks Road - you arrive to the junction of: Parks Rd., Holywell Street, Broad Street and Catte Street. Here you face the peculiar Indian Institute with the animals carvings on the walls. Some animals (elephants, monkeys, tigers) are important in the Hindu religion. The Indian Institute was established in year 1875 in purpose to promote Indian studies at the Oxford University - when India was the crown jewel in the British empire:

    Continue south along Catte Street and passing through the Bridge of Sighs (See: "Oxford - Day 2 - Part 1" blog). Immediately, turn LEFT (east) to New College Lane. On your left take the St. Helen's Passgge (with 40 cm. width...). St. Helen's Passage continues as Bath Pl. Here I met graduates of one of the local colleges, celebrating completion of their exams and year of study, half-drunk and full with confetti:

    Turn right onto and continue along Holywell St. and after 150 m. the entrance to the New College will be on your right. Open: From mid- March to mid-October 2016: from 11.00 to 17.00, price: £4 adult; £3 concessions. Admission includes free map and guide. Other dates: !4.00 -16.00, daily, FREE.

    It is called New College from the time of its completion in 1379. This gives an indication of how old and how much history there is in Oxford.

    Central Quadrangle:

    Inner Quadrangle. This cloistered quad has remained unchanged for six hundred years:

    The Cloisters are also very interesting with statues of a variety of Saints and plaques dedicated to former patrons and alumni of the New College:

    St. Edward the Confessor:

    Opposite the entrance gate, in the other side of the Main Quad - there stairs leading to the Main Hall. The dining hall is full of history and with many pictures of Bishophs and Alumni:

    picture of Bishoph of Winchester:

    The college has beautiful gardens and chapel. The Chapel is just superb. Such wonderful craftsmanship, all done by hand. A few windows, in the chapel, were designed by Joshua Reynolds. The gardens, dominated by the old city walls, are beautiful and would be a peaceful place to sit and read or walk around:

    New College Canopies:

    New College Chapel:

    Several scenes of Harry Potter films took place here: inside the cloisters and around the giant oak tree.

    It is time to eat. So, we head to the Covered Market, 650 m. from the New College. Head west on Holywell St toward Mansfield Rd, 160 m., turn left onto Catte Street, 10 m., turn right onto Broad Street, 70 m., slight left to stay on Broad Street, 105 m. Turn left onto Turl Street, 110m. Turn right onto Market St, 80 m. the The Covered Market of Oxford is on your left.
    The building dates back to the 1770’s. Most of the shops or the businesses are, here, for generations. Open: MON-SAT: 8.00 – 17.30, SUN: 10.00 – 16.00. Part of the stalls are closed on Sundays. Sassi Thai offers a range of delicious Thai dishes and Thai ingredients. Its a small, simple eatery, with limited, but enough choices. Dishes are available to eat in or takeaway. It costs just £5-6 for rice and a choice of one Thai dish, or for £1 more you get the choice of an additional dish. Very few seats and it's almost always busy. Very popular with locals:

    Another well-famed option is Ben's Cookies.  This is THE place to get a sweet snack in oxford. Always delightful, delicious, fresh and... sweet. You are attracted by and cannot stand the smell of baking.

    We continue walking north-east in the Market Street. Walk 80 m. and turn left onto Turl Street. Turn right onto Brasenose Ln and after 50 m. the Exeter College will be on your left. The Exeter College is one of three in Turl Street running between Broad Street and the High Street. The College is typical of the smaller Oxford Colleges. It has beautiful architecture. The first courtyard you enter has the Hall to the right and the chapel to the left:

    The Exeter College Quad was where the fictional Detective Morse character suffered a heart attack and collapsed in the final episode of the series, while Requiem being sung in the chapel:

    It has a charming Fellow's Garden to the back with a Mound, situated at the end of the Garden, which offers unobstructed views over Radcliffe Square, including All Souls College and the Radcliffe Camera:

    The chapel has a dramatic spire and the interior hall is very atmospheric and retains wonderful medieval feel:

    Just inside it on the left is the bust of J.R. Tolkien. It is a little high up and easily missed:

    This is one of the most famous tapestries produced by the influential William Morris workshop, depicting the Adoration of the Magi. The tapestry was commissioned in 1886 for the chapel of Exeter College, Oxford, and created to a design by Edward Burne-Jones. Morris and Burne-Jones were former students at Exeter College. The original tapestry was commissioned in 1886 by John Prideaux Lightfoot, rector of Exeter College, Oxford, for the Gothic revival chapel built for the college in the 1850s by George Gilbert Scott. The tapestry proved so popular that another nine versions were made, each with a different border design. The original tapestry still hangs in the college chapel:

    Dining Hall:

    Exeter College was originally founded in 1314 by Devon-born Walter de Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, as a school to educate clergymen. associated with a number of notable Alumni people, including the writer J. R. R. Tolkien. The Fellows' Garden (see above) is reputed to be where Tolkien first saw the Hobbit.

    From Exeter College and Turl Street we turn left onto Broad St, 130 m. We turn right onto Magdalen St., 125 m. We are already in Oxford very centre. Turn left onto Beaumont St., 75 m. and we face the main entrance of the Ashmolean Museum.